All Activity

May sound silly but take an hour and remove all the 10mm, 13mm, 17mm bolts/nuts and metal screws and hose clamps and anything else that is in good condition from that e21. From all over. I'm in the midst of putting things back together and have spent a small fortune on new little screws and things (some are odd size and so are NLA) and having a bag of "spares" is a nice thing. Jason

Anyone with dtech or their own version of a Hurricane box install have any info for me? I have read every post I can find on the system. I plan on using the box with the side exits for lines for smaller firewall exit holes. 1. It appears most have had to beat the tunnel down pretty good to fit? Is that on manuals and auto tunnels? 2. Does everyone use the plastic diverter on top to route hoses? On my measurements it looks like it will be difficult to get the hoses to come down for center vents? 3. Any complaints or problems over the years? Thanks!

I'm thinking about doing this on my 2000/69. Anyone done this on their NK? I know it's pretty popular amongst 2002's.

Thanks Phil - looks like a nice piece of kit. Fortunately I live in the tropical north of Australia with about 320 days of sunshine a year and we typically don’t run DRL’s like in a lot of northern hemisphere countries. Even in southern Australia they are not typical and people just turn their lights on when they sense the ambient light is low. Some modern cars have it built in of course.

I know it’s in the UK but I have this. DRL Controller Board WWW.POWERFULUK.COM DRL Controller Board This listing is for a Daytime Running Light (DRL) controller board. Note: This board is suitable for use with LED bulbs and will not work with halogen. A DRL controller board will control the function of DRL lights... It works really well. DRLs come on with ignition, dim when you turn your lights on and then get brighter when you switch your main beam on. You can also wire them to dim when you indicate (I didn’t bother with this). Absolute bargain and easy to wire in.

@Son of Marty new Hella voltage regulator just installed now. Dash light still stays on. Thought I should check the belt tension as I do think I left it a bit loose, out of spec. Checked it and it had come completely loose! The alternator bolt had come loose on the new toothed bracket. User error for not tightening it down right. No more light!

@Stevenola that might be the solution. So rather than use the positive feed located near the top of radiator in the original loom, I use the column switch as the earth (I assume that’s what the column switch does). So when I trigger the high beam it will earth the driving light relay but the driving lights will only come on when the driving light rocker is also “on”. That would be “on” when I’m doing the extended country driving but want to dip everything (at the column) when another car approaches. When the rocker is “off” I’ll have high beam for occasional around town/suburban use when I trigger it at the column, but the driving lights stay off even though the relay is earthed. Is that logic correct? I was thinking the positive feed was the route to a solution. Not the earth.

The point of the spring is to lightly hold the eccentric against the feeler gauge while you tighten the nut. It's not there to apply any measurable amount of tension.

They work fine, a bit less offset than other choices but no rubbing issues with 185-70-13s that I have ever noticed. Not sure how they behave with a wider tread Look nice when all spiffed up. Uh huh How's the radiator?

Say it ain’t so, John! Seriously, how much are they charging for a reply email? Or have the stopped issuing email replies and begun insisting on the “certificate”? Thanks and best regards, Steve

If I understand correctly then splice your dash switch in between the driving light relay to ground connection.

I was hoping for @John76 to chime in … as well as him saying the solution is not obvious and I’ll feel less of electrical novice 😂.

John76’s post on this for the win.

Well I was going to say that you could snag the hubs from the e21 to be able to use along with one of the volvo girling-based big brake kits to upgrade your brakes but this says it’s 81-83 only for standard non-tii cars.

Lots done. Engine Transmission Front suspension Driveshaft Clutch lines Brake lines Heater box Coolant hoses Wiring harnesses Relays Steering shaft Steering wheel Exhaust downpipe + more Massive update to follow.

Perhaps a valve guide is moving around? This seems unlikely but I had it happen on an old Audi 100LS engine. Sounded a lot like what you have described. Once the car warmed up, the noise went away. That's probably another reason why you don't see 100LS Audis any more...

I just might take you up on that!

Panama City Beach

I’ve looked at a range of articles/posts on this but I’m still not certain how to do this and as I’m re-wrapping the wiring as the restoration comes to a close, wish to incorporate the driving lights wiring into the process. The kit I brought - I was buying something else on Amazon - what can I say, has an on/off switch. Now if I was using the existing driving light connection built into the original wiring as a trigger, I’d use that with a relay, the driving lights would come on with high beam - the rest of wiring would be as per what I put in when I rewired the hi/low beam circuits with relays years back. Problem solved. What I’m trying to figure out is how I can use the high beam in the headlights in isolation when triggered by the column switch as well as the having the driving lights come on (with the rocker switch “on” of course) or just have the high beam in the headlights on with the driving lights off (rocker in “off” position). Meaning I want the column switch and corresponding feed in the engine bay to control the trigger to the driving lights thru the on/off rocker. This is probably really easy or I’m thinking about it wrong and for someone that has completed front and rear end total refurbs including brakes, half shafts, steering box, all bushes and bearing, etc. plus full dismantling of the car for paint, I feel like a bit of a dunce asking this one. Thanks as always.

Oh, and someone has a post on the Wanted ads for rear axle nut, they are NLA. You might be able to help them out.