All Activity

I'll check for those triangles in the upper outer corners. So sounds like, my 1600-2 having been built in Dec '67 having the chrome on the outer bezel and the gauge rings would be appropriate? The flat face of the bezel between the gauges also chrome?

i had a one-sided canceling issue (iirc it was a left failure) until i put more preload on the steering column. without sufficient column preload, the cancelling ring may only just barely graze the lever. because of angles, the cancelling ring can fail to trip the lever in one direction while still being enough contact for the other direction.

Both, the 4.11 diff and the 3.64 diff were made in long neck and short neck configurations. The 1968 to mid-69 2002 was equipped by the factory with a log neck 3.64 diff. The 1600-2 from 1966 to mid-69 was equipped by the factory with a 4.11 long neck diff. At about mid-69 BMW switched to the short neck diff configuration, not because the short neck is better, but rather because it was cheaper to produce. The long neck is a better design as it holds more oil and has a large hex nut deep in the neck for the crush collar. The flange for the driveshaft is held in place with another large hex nut. On the short neck design the crush collar and flange share the same hex nut. And, once the hex nut is loosened, the crush collar must be replaced. To replace it the diff must be disassembled. This isn't the case with the long neck design where you can replace the oil seal without worrying about the crush collar. This isn't the case with the short neck design. In the US the short neck is most readily available in 3.64 ratio. It's difficult to source in the 4.11 ratio because BMW ceased importing the 1600-2 into the US in 71. where it was only available for about 2 1/2 years. The long neck in 3.64 was only used in the 2002 for 1 1/2 years from 1968 to mid-69. So, it's even more difficult to source. But, the long neck in 4.11 is easier to source as it was used by BMW on some of the NK cars and the 1600-2 from 64 to mid-69. The short neck 3.64 is easiest to source. If your 1600 is equipped with 3.64 diff from a 2002 and you are using a speedometer geared for the 4.11 diff, it will indicate a speed 12% slower than the speed you are traveling at. On the other hand, if you are running a 4.11 diff and you use a speedometer calibrated for a 3.64 diff, it will indicate a speed 12% faster than the speed you are actually traveling at. 12% of 45mph = 5.4mph. 12% 0f 75mph = 9mph This is a significant error. If your short neck diff is a 3.64, I suggest you use the speedo from your 69 cluster because it appears to be calibrated for the 3.64 diff, judging by the red maximum speed mark on it for for 3rd gear, which is at just over 80mph. Notice the 3rd gear maximum speed mark on the 1600-2 speedo is placed at under 75mph. You can get the speedometer recalibrated by a speedometer shop. But, it's not cost effective as the price for a used speedo in the correct ratio is much cheaper. If you are still running a 1600cc motor with a 3.64 diff, you don't need a 5 speed trans with overdrive in 5th. because you already got your 12% overdrive through the diff. It's actually a good combination for the 1600.

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I got it running! Before doing anything, I double-checked all the fuel line clamps in the system and made sure they were tight. The fuel lines in my car are the newer rubber type, like you can get at any auto parts store, so I figured they were likely good to go. Some were not-so-tight, so it was a good thing to check. I had already checked all the carburetor jets and they were clear, but I had never, ever, messed with the valves inside the carburetor so I cleaned them out. Here are the parts I targeted. This is the inside of my Weber 38/38 carb. I unscrewed the two indicated parts and sprayed them out with carb cleaner and blew into them until I got solid air flow. I also cleaned out the valve attached to the carburetor float. Even in the picture you can see some old fuel crud inside the one of the holes. I sprayed carb cleaner into as much of the part as I could, including into the holes with a straw, and it looked pretty clean and moved easily. I did not unscrew the assembly, but it might have been necessary if it had been any worse. Because I did several things at once (tightening fuel lines, cleaning carb parts) it's impossible to know which did the trick, but as soon as I cranked the engine, fuel started flowing through the filter and into the carburetor normally. My guess is that the carb was just gunked with old fuel. I know this might be routine stuff, but for me it was the first time so maybe it'll help somebody else down the line. The big, BIG upside to all this is that now I can drive my car! There are about a half-dozen things I want/need to do, including installing my front bumper, but today was a good day.

Which means it has to be shipped from Europe.

I have this same issue (m42 with g240). When I had a look there is significant vertical play in my gearstick. I can lift it and it will stop rubbing. I have bought a new lower gearstick bush but have yet to fit it. However, since having my engine rebuilt the issue has reduced. I don’t know if the builder changed something or the box has gone back in in a slightly different place.

They are being reproduced in Europe. https://www.bts-autoteile.de/index.php/de/shop/e9-2-5-3-0-csil/lenkung2013-04-23-12-02-572013-04-23-12-02-57_3/rückstellnocken-detail Best, krauser

To see those triangular cutouts, you need to lean further down in the trunk to take the picture. They're in the far upper, outer corners just below the underside of the package shelf. Your picture doesn't show the triangles. mike PS--per Steve's explanation about the earliest US spec 1968 1600s having an all chrome instrument housing, chrome trimmed dash etc is that the Federal regs that did away with all that reflective chrome in the driver's line of vision took effect on 1 January 1968. While most manufacturers incorporated those requirements in all their 1968 model year cars (beginning in Sept 1967), BMW didn't do so until 1 January 1968, creating two versions of their 1968 cars: early and late, or 1st and 2nd series. Then they did the same thing with their '69 model year cars: those produced between Sept '68 and 31 Dec 68, and those produced from January '69 on.

Seattle

Per Mark's post above--especially check the short length of rubber fuel line that connects the pickup line in the gas tank to the translucent fuel line atop the gas tank. If that (or the other pieces of rubber fuel line in the engine compartment) has a woven cloth covering, replace with new fuel line, as that cloth covered line is probably original. It cracks with age, and the cloth covering obscures the cracks. A mechanical fuel pump would much rather suck air than fuel, so any place where air can get in the fuel line (like a porous rubber line, loose hose etc) will keep even a good pump from working. Finally, check the cover on your pump. Depending on pump type, it may have a removable cover with a filter screen underneath. The screen may be clogged or the cover gasket may be dried out, causing an air leak. mike

I suspect Stephen has the answer--the canceling "finger" or "thimble) is only press-fitted to the underside of the steering wheel hub. If it moves or gets mispositioned it won't engage the little finger on the lever assembly. It might also have to do with the inner end of the lever--it has a little roller that rides on a curved surface formed by part of the diecast lever assembly housing. If the surface is worn or has a divot in it, the little roller can hang up. This can also cause the lever not to stay in position when selecting a left or right turn. If that's the case, I can help as I did a column after finding that wear on my turn signal assembly. mike

I think Ireland does these as well?

Now getting more frustrated. I think dizzy has default programming as I can’t confirm it’s got the original one I wrote. trying to change it and I can’t get it to write to the dizzy. not getting blue light (but can see green glow from inside so I know it’s got power). app shows it connected, both by green light on dashboard page and a check next to it on settings BUT, when these two are present the blue light is not. Magen I wore the dizzy directly to battery, pos to pos, neg to neg per 223 website, I get the blue light but app won’t connect-no green light, can’t find it in settings. I honestly am at a loss here.

Well I can’t pass that up! I can come down and pick it up this week. I’ll message you about availability. If I can eliminate any variables it’ll help! Not turning over slowly. Turns over as before, not too fast or slow. Turns over normally. It just won’t start. First handful of cranks (each about 5-10 seconds) seem like no fuel, just cranking. Then it starts to sound like it wants to fire. Then more and eventually starts. started easily before. Only change was dizzy.

Is your motor turning over more slowly than before? You might want to try 10 degrees advance at start.

Hi Pablo! I have a newish (2 mo old) battery you’re welcome to if you find yourself in MB. Sally PS - fun to see you build nearing the finish line.

Recycle. You can find something better for probably not that much $$$ and then not have to spend a bunch of time (which = money) playing ' MacGiver ' (and then really still having a POS). My opinion.

+1 for the JB weld fix. I've had good luck with this product on similar fittings. It is compatible with antifreeze and it will not harden. Permatex® Super "300" Form-A-Gasket® Sealant, 4 OZ - Permatex WWW.PERMATEX.COM

Nice John76! I was thinking of doing that...Thanks!

JB Weld is your friend. Scrub that divider clean with a brass brush and light sandpaper. Apply JBW to fill in the pits. Sand and polish. The aluminum casting is usually OK on the inside. For future protection, wrap some Teflon plumbers' tape around the spigots before installing the hoses.

It’s working so far so I’ll not change it until it’s a problem. I’ve had to recharge it a few times due to constant attempts at starting it over the last year, as I’ve worked on it. correct, 13.6. Yesterday it was at 14 off, 13.6 when running. Yes. I set the engine to tdc by checking the cam gear alignment (removed the valve cover) and the old distributor rotor was at the #1 lead. Magen I installed the 123 I followed the instructions on setting it up and the green light was already on when I powered it up. I turned it slightly ccw and it went off right away. Came back on when I returned it to position. once running it sounds fine. It’s just cold start is worse now with 123. Yes but it was like that before and it ran fine. Still runs fine now once started. It’s starting it that is a problem.

Look around for a hobbyist locally that builds hotrods etc that can talk to metal and knows how to block and lay down some nice paint. Go to some local cruise ins you might find an honest hotshot that would work with you. Paint and materials are horrendously expensive but go for the gusto when its color time. Most painters feel comfortable with PPG system, Glasurit, and Spies Hecker are inordinately higher priced but your call. Try to keep at it, but family and health are priority. My project took me years due to priorities, success through faith and perseverance has helped me immensely.

The connection on the green and red wire at the front of your resistor needs attention and your starter bypass relay has wires missing from it.

About 100 miles from home returning from Mid America last year the driver side bolt on the shift platform backed partially out. This allowed the shifter to drop just enough to touch the spinning drive shaft. As I got off the highway to gas up for the final push home, I heard this awful screeching noise. (only in 2nd gear). I made it home before I crawled under to find out what it was. I tightened it and it hasn't moved since but then again I haven't been on an 800 mile drive since Mid -America. Maybe I should blue lock tight since I'll be heading to MidAmerica again in a couple of weeks.