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FYI the changeover on US 2002s from long neck to short neck diffs was at 1664761. For US 1600's it's 1567846. Other changes were made at this VIN so it becomes the changeover point from "first series" '69s to "second series" My 4 Feb production "second series" car (1664801) has all the later features (3 speed heater, different trunk torsion bar setup, short neck diff etc) so apparently they only made 40 second series cars between the end of December and 4 Feb. Probably re-jiggering the production line to incorporate the changes. Another fairly major change was from six to eight bolt flywheels/crankshafts, and coil spring to diaphragm spring clutch pressure plates--with a corresponding different throwout bearing and a non-adjustable slave cylinder pushrod at 1665200. If you have one of these early 02s, and are gonna need a pressure plate and throwout bearing, start looking now...they're hard to find in the 228mm diameter used on 02s. mike

I wanted to be able to turn my driving lights on and off independently of any other lights on the car, to have them go on and off with the high beams, and also be able to have 'em off all the time. The method below doesn't use the dedicated terminal near the battery. What I did many years ago when I wired 'em: Got a single pole, double throw toggle switch (off when centered, on when switched left or right), and ran the wire leading to the driving light relay to the center terminal. Then I ran a wire to an ignition-switched hot lead to one side terminal (ignition-switched so I wouldn't forget and leave the lights on with the car off), and the other side lead to the high beam terminal on the dimmer switch. 3 POSITION TOGGLE SWITCH to ign switched to driving to high beam hot source lights terminal ----------------I I I------------------------- Been working well for me for many years... mike

I only see a gorilla 😜

May sound silly but take an hour and remove all the 10mm, 13mm, 17mm bolts/nuts and metal screws and hose clamps and anything else that is in good condition from that e21. From all over. I'm in the midst of putting things back together and have spent a small fortune on new little screws and things (some are odd size and so are NLA) and having a bag of "spares" is a nice thing. Jason

Anyone with dtech or their own version of a Hurricane box install have any info for me? I have read every post I can find on the system. I plan on using the box with the side exits for lines for smaller firewall exit holes. 1. It appears most have had to beat the tunnel down pretty good to fit? Is that on manuals and auto tunnels? 2. Does everyone use the plastic diverter on top to route hoses? On my measurements it looks like it will be difficult to get the hoses to come down for center vents? 3. Any complaints or problems over the years? Thanks!

I'm thinking about doing this on my 2000/69. Anyone done this on their NK? I know it's pretty popular amongst 2002's.

Thanks Phil - looks like a nice piece of kit. Fortunately I live in the tropical north of Australia with about 320 days of sunshine a year and we typically don’t run DRL’s like in a lot of northern hemisphere countries. Even in southern Australia they are not typical and people just turn their lights on when they sense the ambient light is low. Some modern cars have it built in of course.

I know it’s in the UK but I have this. DRL Controller Board WWW.POWERFULUK.COM DRL Controller Board This listing is for a Daytime Running Light (DRL) controller board. Note: This board is suitable for use with LED bulbs and will not work with halogen. A DRL controller board will control the function of DRL lights... It works really well. DRLs come on with ignition, dim when you turn your lights on and then get brighter when you switch your main beam on. You can also wire them to dim when you indicate (I didn’t bother with this). Absolute bargain and easy to wire in.

@Son of Marty new Hella voltage regulator just installed now. Dash light still stays on. Thought I should check the belt tension as I do think I left it a bit loose, out of spec. Checked it and it had come completely loose! The alternator bolt had come loose on the new toothed bracket. User error for not tightening it down right. No more light!

@Stevenola that might be the solution. So rather than use the positive feed located near the top of radiator in the original loom, I use the column switch as the earth (I assume that’s what the column switch does). So when I trigger the high beam it will earth the driving light relay but the driving lights will only come on when the driving light rocker is also “on”. That would be “on” when I’m doing the extended country driving but want to dip everything (at the column) when another car approaches. When the rocker is “off” I’ll have high beam for occasional around town/suburban use when I trigger it at the column, but the driving lights stay off even though the relay is earthed. Is that logic correct? I was thinking the positive feed was the route to a solution. Not the earth.

The point of the spring is to lightly hold the eccentric against the feeler gauge while you tighten the nut. It's not there to apply any measurable amount of tension.

They work fine, a bit less offset than other choices but no rubbing issues with 185-70-13s that I have ever noticed. Not sure how they behave with a wider tread Look nice when all spiffed up. Uh huh How's the radiator?

Say it ain’t so, John! Seriously, how much are they charging for a reply email? Or have the stopped issuing email replies and begun insisting on the “certificate”? Thanks and best regards, Steve

If I understand correctly then splice your dash switch in between the driving light relay to ground connection.

I was hoping for @John76 to chime in … as well as him saying the solution is not obvious and I’ll feel less of electrical novice 😂.

John76’s post on this for the win.

Well I was going to say that you could snag the hubs from the e21 to be able to use along with one of the volvo girling-based big brake kits to upgrade your brakes but this says it’s 81-83 only for standard non-tii cars.

Lots done. Engine Transmission Front suspension Driveshaft Clutch lines Brake lines Heater box Coolant hoses Wiring harnesses Relays Steering shaft Steering wheel Exhaust downpipe + more Massive update to follow.