Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Past hour
  2. FS: 1976 Becker Europe serie M US radio in very good working condition, dial light is also working. Complete with fuse holder. Price 325 euro + shipping.
  3. those are beautiful! Love your 2000, is it a tii? or just tii grilles? Would love a set of these eventually for my 2000.
  4. Soo.... I had talked to Dave Lumbra before he passed (was battling brain cancer) and said he passed down his unbelievable collection to his son who was supposed to keep t2002 restorations going. . His son promptly sold everything to Jim Johnson. He is sitting on a treasure trove, (as you can see by the number of transmissions he has) but Jim seems to be more interested in firearms. I did reach out to him a long time ago checking for a heater valve. He quoted me such a high price for used one that it was cheaper to get a new one. I don't know how active he is in the 2002 realm, but it would be nice to open up the market to the rest of the FAQ if he hasn't done so already. Or someone can buy the collection from him and start a nice business.
  5. there is something about this combination of words that kind of cracks me up... t
  6. Back in high school a friend of mine had a '69 GTO and he had a line on his repair bill for pittman shaft 3 times over the course of a year from a shop. The 3rd time he demanded to meet Mr Pittman so he could understand why he kept shafting him.
  7. I found this set of motorcycle tuning vacuum gauges at the Habitat store and borrowed two of them to put in my console. I found a piece of already-black aluminum in the scrap bin, trimmed it a quarter inch shorter and drilled four holes to mount them, using the original as a template. It tucks in nicely between the console and dash with the ashtray removed. Now I can watch ported and manifold pressure at the same time. I also reinstalled the gauge under the hood and moved the switch to the middle bracket. It is T-ed int the distributor feed, showing manifold vacuum. I’m looking forward to today’s 100 mile test-drive. Tom
  8. Today
  9. Using the new Laser Cleaner to get to some hard to clean areas and testing it out on other parts that were laying around. IMG_0185.mov
  10. Looks like there are 17 x 6.5 grommets and 22x7.3 grommets.
  11. I have my 4-speed drive shaft so I can have them remove the 3-bolt flange from the too-short one and cut my original 4-bolt shaft to the proper length and weld the 3-bolt on. Just trying to find a shop here that will do it. I'll update once I'm on the road. Lots of little things to get right. I don't want to be doing over. Thanks
  12. I had the exact same problem. Slowed me down a week not having the grommet
  13. I am taking the box out too for refurbishment or trash depending on if I bite the bullet and put in ac. Oh. Good. Yeah. I'm looking at AC. I'm hoping I can use the smog pump side of the pulley.. I think I have an unused pulley slot. I'm leaning towards restomodair or Vintage. I'm going to order mockup boxes and see what looks like it'll fit. I'm doing a turbo, so I'm hoping I can sort out a bracket and turbo plumbing and mount the compressor. Yeah. I would def do AC for Dallas.
  14. Proper adjustment to a Leaf. If I go electric, it will be a hybrid. Maybe like this
  15. I am taking the box out too for refurbishment or trash depending on if I bite the bullet and put in ac. Hurricane unit, it will stay out, and ice ac, I would have to refurbish. I hate that thing. I have confidence my paint is going to be epic and it’s hot as hell in Dallas. I would drive more with ac. Anyone have a source for an AC Tii pulley?
  16. Sorry @Highnote1 I had my heater box out, too. As Karl said, it takes some finagling even with the heater box out. It doesn't look like it will be that bad to put the rod back in and re-assemble. I'm not sure if you can 'drop' the heater box without removing the hoses, so that probably becomes a larger task.
  17. Well, I have one. Pulled it off my '81 320iS. Has new Bosch fog lights. I will PM you.
  18. I drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat valve which allows for the air to come out. Also if you have to drain the system, it all comes out without having to remove the thermostat. It doesn't affect any warm up. Works like a charm.
  19. Hi. Wondering if these seat belts are still available. What is the condition of the driver's belt? These tend to fray with use. Also, can you send me a picture of the latch on the seat belt? Mine appear to be a different shape than what seems to be common.
  20. Thanks for the link. Looks like I have some work to do now... First I have to locate a front bumper. Barry
  21. Clean the ball stud and lever with carb cleaner, mix a small batch of JB Weld and reinstall. Leave for 24 hours. Repaired an old Merc diesel in a boat that way, lasted until the engine was replaced many years later.
  22. No that fits the standard M/C's. The picture below shows you the standard plug and the one that came out of the ATE one beside it. For some reason when you buy an ATE M/C for an 02 application you don't get them. Maybe @Ireland Engineeringshould provide them as an option when you purchase it.
  23. Well, I'm stumped here folks. The saga continues....here's where I'm at after a morning of work: -the IR temp reader I have has a margin of error in the range of 2-3% when fluctuating the physical range from 2" to 15" or so. it's something, but a rounding error, for my purposes. While I had burped the system when I filled it, and then consequently replaced the temp sending unit( and getting coolant to gush at that location), I additionally got the front end WAY up in the air today, removed the cap, and got the car to temp. I was able to get the gauge up to around 1:30pm, not touching the red, but about 3/4 of the way up. sitting on the throttle, I couldn't get it higher. FYI, the coolant level did not budge. I dropped the car, put the cap on and drove it. within 5 blocks, the gauge is touching the red. I got back to the shop, shot temperatures, and made this diagram. Please take a look, and let me know what you think. I recognize that technically, 177F on the intake manifold is not a temperature that I necessarily need to lose my shit over, the bottom line is that I don't think I'm ready to resign myself to driving a car with the temp gauge in the red and calculating that as "oh yea that's just normal lets keep driving". Mind you, relative to the gauges and the wiring, NOTHING changed during the water pump job. Do the below numbers look "right" to you? (the two larger coolant hoses at the water neck read around 160)
  24. Ah. That totally sucks. But you can see it. The piston box says m10 e21 and the head says e12. That’s the problem I guess.
  25. Complete set of zinc coated non-tii front wheel hubs with bearings, grease caps, nut, etc. Ready for assembly and installation. Price includes shipment within the US via USPS medium flat rate box. Payment via PayPal Friends and Family. Thanks for looking. Regards, Will
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...