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I think Ireland does these as well?

Now getting more frustrated. I think dizzy has default programming as I can’t confirm it’s got the original one I wrote. trying to change it and I can’t get it to write to the dizzy. not getting blue light (but can see green glow from inside so I know it’s got power). app shows it connected, both by green light on dashboard page and a check next to it on settings BUT, when these two are present the blue light is not. Magen I wore the dizzy directly to battery, pos to pos, neg to neg per 223 website, I get the blue light but app won’t connect-no green light, can’t find it in settings. I honestly am at a loss here.

Well I can’t pass that up! I can come down and pick it up this week. I’ll message you about availability. If I can eliminate any variables it’ll help! Not turning over slowly. Turns over as before, not too fast or slow. Turns over normally. It just won’t start. First handful of cranks (each about 5-10 seconds) seem like no fuel, just cranking. Then it starts to sound like it wants to fire. Then more and eventually starts. started easily before. Only change was dizzy.

Is your motor turning over more slowly than before? You might want to try 10 degrees advance at start.

Hi Pablo! I have a newish (2 mo old) battery you’re welcome to if you find yourself in MB. Sally PS - fun to see you build nearing the finish line.

Recycle. You can find something better for probably not that much $$$ and then not have to spend a bunch of time (which = money) playing ' MacGiver ' (and then really still having a POS). My opinion.

+1 for the JB weld fix. I've had good luck with this product on similar fittings. It is compatible with antifreeze and it will not harden. Permatex® Super "300" Form-A-Gasket® Sealant, 4 OZ - Permatex WWW.PERMATEX.COM

Nice John76! I was thinking of doing that...Thanks!

JB Weld is your friend. Scrub that divider clean with a brass brush and light sandpaper. Apply JBW to fill in the pits. Sand and polish. The aluminum casting is usually OK on the inside. For future protection, wrap some Teflon plumbers' tape around the spigots before installing the hoses.

It’s working so far so I’ll not change it until it’s a problem. I’ve had to recharge it a few times due to constant attempts at starting it over the last year, as I’ve worked on it. correct, 13.6. Yesterday it was at 14 off, 13.6 when running. Yes. I set the engine to tdc by checking the cam gear alignment (removed the valve cover) and the old distributor rotor was at the #1 lead. Magen I installed the 123 I followed the instructions on setting it up and the green light was already on when I powered it up. I turned it slightly ccw and it went off right away. Came back on when I returned it to position. once running it sounds fine. It’s just cold start is worse now with 123. Yes but it was like that before and it ran fine. Still runs fine now once started. It’s starting it that is a problem.

Look around for a hobbyist locally that builds hotrods etc that can talk to metal and knows how to block and lay down some nice paint. Go to some local cruise ins you might find an honest hotshot that would work with you. Paint and materials are horrendously expensive but go for the gusto when its color time. Most painters feel comfortable with PPG system, Glasurit, and Spies Hecker are inordinately higher priced but your call. Try to keep at it, but family and health are priority. My project took me years due to priorities, success through faith and perseverance has helped me immensely.

The connection on the green and red wire at the front of your resistor needs attention and your starter bypass relay has wires missing from it.

About 100 miles from home returning from Mid America last year the driver side bolt on the shift platform backed partially out. This allowed the shifter to drop just enough to touch the spinning drive shaft. As I got off the highway to gas up for the final push home, I heard this awful screeching noise. (only in 2nd gear). I made it home before I crawled under to find out what it was. I tightened it and it hasn't moved since but then again I haven't been on an 800 mile drive since Mid -America. Maybe I should blue lock tight since I'll be heading to MidAmerica again in a couple of weeks.

Did you set for Tdc?

Eleven year old battery that sat a lot. I'd be replacing that. Did you mean 12.6? I doubt it will hold a charge.

I am starting to realize that, Mike! I recently got the build up primer, but the first order of business is to get everything cleaned up and close surface inspection.

I seems the only way to check/set fueling on that controller system is to spend time on the dyno because it predates wideband O2 sensors and any closed loop fuel controlling.. It would be sad that after the time and money on the restoration, the fuel goes lean during boost. Modern controllers are light years better. My 02 cents.

Thanks all I’ll take a look and post some pics. The previous bearing was very worn and the shaft was sitting lower, so there was no noise (but light vibration) from the worn rubber around the support bearing. A washer (2mm thick) between the carrier and the frame will change the angle enough to cause issues then? Other supports for the shift ass’y seem pretty tight. All factory or appears to be. Both my axle and donor axle (backup) have the same shiny ring where the shift ass’y seems to have rubber things in the past.

where are you?

🧟‍♂️

🚫 Bad bordering on junk, should be a better used one floating around, pretty sure I have a few.

I attached the multimeter to the coil + and - while cranking and at the start of cranking it read 1.15, then went to 0.5. This was with the multimeter set to 20V. Same setting used to check the battery which was at 13.6 with ignition off. the coil:

Thans @Mikesmalaga72 I appreciate the encouragement. I've had some busy weekends and seem to have torn something in my shoulder trying to wrench out the rear brake line - laying under the car with arms above head. I'm chipping away, but more slowly. Also, still trying to find an auto body since the guy I'd scheduled crapped out on me.

Sounds like your shift platform may have excessive play, I would check for worn/loose mounts and worn/missing support strut.

It appears the CSB was recently replaced.