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Found 55 results

  1. Hey all, I'm in the middle of a turbo M10 build, projected 350whp. Part of the build includes a Getrag 245 swap. The 245 I have has a 3-bolt output flange on it. Is there a big difference in the amount of torque the output flange in particular can handle? I want to stick with the 3-bolt because it's already on the trans, but would a 4-bolt be significantly better in the 350+ lb-ft of torque range. Keep in mind, I'll probably be using an aluminum/poly flex disc. Thanks!
  2. Hey All, I WAS going to do an m20 conversion on my 1975 BMW 2002, but after some consideration I just don't have the time. I have a lot of parts that are either brand new or the best used condition I could find. I put this kit together over a 5 month period, choosing brands and parts recommend by various BMW2002FAQ forums and the BMW M20 Swap for Dummies Guide. I test-fit the engine and tranny so I know the mounts are good to good. Included: 90 BMW 525i e34 2.5L Engine (M20B25), pulls strong VictorEngine Gasket Set, Brand New BMW 2002 custom motor/swap mounts, Brand new (from Jake @ Classic Daily) BMW Getrag 260 5 speed manual transmission 2nd Gear Synchro, Brand New SACHS-FX STAGE 2 CLUTCH KIT 84-91, Brand New 1988-1991 VW Scirocco Radiator, Brand New JDM 12" BLUE 1500 CFM 2250 RPM 12V ELECTRIC SLIM COOLING RADIATOR FAN +MOUNT KIT, Brand New BMW 525I ENGINE ECM ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE, Used condition and tested working I also have a flywheel, all the radiator/coolant system hoses. (brand new) and various other parts I'm probably forgetting. Located in Reseda, CA $2,000 takes it all OBO If interested please send me an email ( and I will answer any questions you may have. thank you
  3. benzintinte

    Small Updates

    I mostly wait to post with big updates. Which is fine, but means I don't have much to say for long periods of time. I'm never in a hurry, I like to take my time with this car and really think before I do things. But it's also frustrating to make so little progress in such a long period of time too. I've been fighting sourcing parts, breaking things and the Arizona heat lately. I thought I'd share a recent hiccup, a part I'm very excited about picking up, and the start of the brake rebuild. This probably isn't the most interesting update in the world, but it's all part of the process. The other evening, I was driving the 2002 home, went to turn into my neighborhood and heard a massive thunk before losing all connection to the rear wheels. I coasted to the side of the road, and just knew that I ruined my diff. Fortunately I was wrong, and had just broken the axle to diff bolts clean off. A friend came to my rescue, and we were able to thread back in a couple bolts and I could limp it 300 yards back to my house. Only photo I have from that evening. Sure enough, I snapped some bolts. The rest backed out, stressing the remaining two that snapped. These were an absolute bitch to get out. As it turns out, these bolts have previously been replaced, and were far too short for the output flange. There was also 0 sign of loctite, so they just backed out over time. The chunks I removed from the diff shows you all of the thread that could go in, with nearly twice that much room available. I put in new, longer bolts, and it seems to be fine now. But I have to go in and replace the other side this weekend, just to make sure this doesn't happen again. I also threw some blue loctite in there for good measure. I also picked up a part that I honestly never thought I'd be able to source for the car. I purchased a set of original Auto-Plas louvers on Instagram of all places. They arrived safe and sound, but had no mounting hardware, and were obviously very orange. Yes, I am going to restore them and paint them black. What you see below are just some mock ups. It's a hideous color, but you can't be picky when trying to buy out of production, obscure parts. Yes I'm going to paint them black. I promise they won't stay orange, this is only a mock up. I also happened to find a company that is reproducing the Auto-Plas mounting hardware, so I put in an order. It should be here by the end of the month, so I'll get cracking on repainting the louvers black. I realize the look isn't to everyone's taste, but it's something I have had in mind since I bought the car. So I'm pretty excited to have these in. And I'll be more excited when they aren't orange anymore. Finally, I started preparing for the big brake swap. You'll note in a previous post that I wasn't about to put crusty junkyard parts on my car. The Volvo calipers were disgusting, and the Mk4 calipers weren't far behind. So I sourced some rebuild kits, blew everything apart and sent it all off for powder coat. For the Mk4 calipers, I took them to a friend to have them shaved down. If you are running 14 inch wheels on a 2002, you may run into clearance issues in the rear. Even though I currently have 15s, I have tentative plans to swap to 14s, if I can find a very specific set of wheels I've been dreaming about lately. So I took them to a friend's shop and had him sand down the rear section. Is it over kill? Yes absolutely. Will it look great? I'm sure, if you could really see them behind the RSs, it'd be fire. But I rather have fresh, new parts on the car. Might as well do things right. Start of the Volvo tear down. Seals were blown, caliper puked water out everywhere. Photo credit: @dauerhaftfab Photo credit: @dauerhaftfab It isn't much, but should be just enough to clear future 14 inch wheels. Side note, if you are a 2002 owner and looking to put together your own rear disc brake conversion, you'll likely end up getting Mk4 rear calipers. They're aluminum, easy to source, and bolt up to the Mk3 caliper carrier brackets that you need for the conversion plates. All the VW forums will swear up and down that you cannot get them powder coated because they are not rebuildable. This made no sense to me, reman units exist so obviously they have to rebuild them somehow. So I started digging into the issue and found the solution below. Most rebuild kits for Mk4 VW Jetta rear calipers are listed as only including the piston seals, and dust boots. However Centric makes a full rebuild kit, which includes all the rear seals and clips. It is PN: 143.33037. You can find it on eBay, I'd advise not buying it from ECS as they're horrific to deal with. Then just follow this write up. It's a pain in the ass for sure, and if you don't really want to go to the effort of powder coating your calipers, you are far better off just purchasing a reman unit and slapping it on. However I wanted everything to match front and back, so this is where I find myself. I'm surprised this information isn't easier to find honestly. So now I'm waiting for my stuff to come back from powdercoating. This weekend I'll be addressing a few more small issues on the car, cleaning some hardware, and start prepping for my big road trip to Big SoCal Euro. If anyone else is planning on being there, I'd love to meet up at the show!
  4. 02tradition


  5. BayArea 02 Swap & Show, 5 May 2018, Marina at Brisbane, California. Preregister on Motorsportreg (watch this site for a link). Preregistration is $25 while the on-site fee on 5 May will be $30. Please preregister early so we can determine more easily the shirt sizes to order. See BayArea02 calendar for additional details. Also— Swap & Show visitors are welcome!
  6. midnightmotorsport

    M42 engine, transmission, harness, DME

    I have a known-good M42 out of an E30 318is. This was not a wrecked car or anything, the engine was pulled in favor of a recently-completed S52 swap. Here is the complete setup: -Engine (complete with intake and exhaust manifolds) -G240 transmission -Clutch, etc. -Engine harness -DME (aka "The Computer") -Air flow meter and air box Basically, everything you need powertrain-wise (except the drive shaft) to start your M42 conversion. This is a high-mileage engine (~200k), but it was a good runner; the car was driven regularly by a good friend/customer for a year before it was pulled for the 6-cylinder swap. Only issues were the standard M42 oil leaks, never any problems running. The DME allegedly has a Jim Conforti chip in it, although I have not opened it to verify. Asking $600 for everything. Local pickup in Seattle preferred, although I'm pretty sure I can find a way or excuse to get it as far south as Portland. Will post photos as I have the chance, or ask for pictures.
  7. Hello, I am selling my M10 engine complete with transmission. Previous owner had the engine completely rebuilt in 2006. I had the car and engine serviced at The Werk Shop in Libertyville. The engine is a great shape and properly serviced during my ownership past 1.5 years. Some highlights of the engine include. 123+ Tune Distributor "bluetooth version" 121 TI head * date from 68 Matching Italian Dual Weber 40s BMW TI manifold Stahl Headers New IE hoses TEP throttle linkage New spark plugs New water pump Block date 70 October All the above have about 6 months or less on the car *except the head. The transmission is in good shape easily through all gears as according to the previous owner a new unit transmission was used to replace the original. No leaks, I will try to provide compression test shortly. As described earlier, all work was properly done by the experts at The Werk Shop (documentation available). This is a great engine with a lots of life and a nice step up from stock. Happy to discuss further. Local pick up preferred. Video of smooth idle and pulling from 3rd to 4th. Selling because of forthcoming S14. IMG_1430.MOV IMG_1428.MOV
  8. martinmcassidy

    WTB m20 swap parts

    im ditching the plans to turbo my m10 and going to swap a m20 in, i need just about everything. also looking for a racing pedal set up, like hanging wilwood pedals to save room in the engine bay for itbs and other pretty things. thanks
  9. 7D2-OhTwo

    BMW 320i Parts Car or Whole

    This is a ’83 320i I am selling as a whole or parts. You will probably do better as a whole. It has a 5 Speed transmission and a pretty solid body. It was being prepped for racing so it has a fuel cell instead of a stock tank. Someone has removed the stock fuel injection setup for a Weber carb (IDK why). Oh by the way, the car runs fine. I am starting out with selling the obvious. 5 Speed Transmission and Drive shaft - $1200 obo. Serious buyers just make me an offer…you can just take the whole car. I live in the Atlanta area…
  10. Hello All, I apologize in advance for the long-winded backstory: I have been trying to get my wipers working since I bought my '70 2002 last year. My original 3 wire motor had a bad self-parking mechanism so it would come on with the ignition. Then I got a used 5 wire motor and tried to wire it up as recommended in the old Roundel article: Black/Yellow to Yellow, Black/Green to Black, and Black to Green, but when I did, the motor did the same thing, came on with the ignition. I assumed this meant I had another bad parking mechanism, so I bought another 5 wire motor, wired it up as in the article and same problem, motor comes on with the ignition. The other issue is that the wires don't exactly match what is listed in the old article, mine has Black/White, Brown/Red(not used), Brown(ground), Black/Green(ish), and Black. At this point I decided to try other ways of wiring the motor and finally, when I wired the black from the motor to the green on the firewall and the Black/White to the Yellow on the firewall, the motor would turn on if you push the wiper switch in and off when you pull it out. I think that is all the pertinent info, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Oh, here's a sorta decent pic of the wires as well. Thanks as always and have a great day! Greg
  11. Hi all, I don't see a photo thread for this year's event so I'll start it up. Feel free to add your photos to the thread if you like. Below are some of mine, you can also click through to the full album here: I had a fantastic time - bought (and won) some cool parts, met great people, and saw incredible cars. What a great community of enthusiasts!
  12. Who wants to 5-speed swap their 2002? Better question is, who doesn't want to!? Although this swap is an excellent choice for performance and drivability, there is one major concern you should have when buying a used Getrag 245/5 OD transmission: A burned out 4th gear. In these transmissions, it is very common for the 4th gear to be overheated, overworked, and worn down. The input shaft suffers as well. Although a damaged 4th gear is drivable, you will experience additional noise and vibration. The main sign of a damaged 4th gear is a low humming, vibrating, or other noise during 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear, and then silence during 4th gear. In a normal functioning transmission, there should be no significant noise throughout all the gears. If that's not the case, then you have yourself a burned out 4th gear. Sorry! No amount of rebuilding can repair this damage, unless your replace the input shaft and 4th gear. So when you're looking at a Getrag 245, buyer beware! Source: Metric Mechanic (I experienced this issue firsthand: Bought a used 245, sent it to MM, and when they opened it up all the truth of the universe was revealed)
  13. Time to go fulfill my dreams. The car I've been hunting for has turned up. I was planning to keep the orange car but I got the chance to buy my car back and can't give that up. Selling my 1974 and 1976 BMW 2002. I'll explain this further down the description.Please take the time to read this if you plan on contacting me. Car runs, drives, and starts up.Details: Engine: 130k mile E36 M42 swapped Transmission: E36 G250 5 speed Transmission Differential: E21 LSD Round converted from square lights Has custom fitted Legacy gauges Seats from a Prelude Side mirrors from a Porsche 914 Swaybar from an E36 Front spoiler from a MK1 GTI KYB shocks 3/4 floor pans have been replaced.(I have metal for the last patch.) Springs are cut Kill switch Switches to fuel pump, fan, and push button for starter Battery located to the rear Doors don't lock but you can pull the locks from the parts car. Window is cracked slightly in the corner. Paint is okay and subjective to the individual. There was a cage in it before but no longer is there a cage. The reason why I said 1974/1976 is because the vin for this one is actually for a 76 which is a pain for registration. However, I have a parts car thatis a 1974 car that you can register under. Car is currently in Registration processso I have a temp permit but that's not needed because I recently discovered myparts car is a 1974 car. Therefore, you should register it under that. Why haven't I gone ahead and done that? I found this out a week ago and have been busy since. If you are concerned about registering your car, I will help you and guide you to the right placesand do whatever I can.Parts car has an m10 and 4speed. Unknown condition but was told it runs. Icranked it and it sounded like it would turn over if the battery wasn't deadand if there was more gas. The parts car is missing a bunch of stuff like a driveshaft, interior, rear subframe and some trimmings. Comes with a ton of parts.Also have metal rabbit flares for you to weld on and a heap of other stuff.I can set you up with a guy that has lots of 2002 parts and can help you fix whateveryou need to do. He's nice, will get you cheap parts, and local. This car is not for the person who really wants to do an "out of the showroom" build.This car is great for people that like to drive quick, go fast, sideways, and freely. It's loud. It's old. It's unique. It's peppy. It's different. It's attractive. It's fun.And It can be yours for $3000. It gets you the (2) 2002s, parts, and I'll even throw in an m20 blockif you really want that too.Orange one is located in Santa Cruz and parts car is in Sunnyvale.Here is a small video of it.*I have included a video and a ridiculous amount of pictures. Please contact me if you are truly interested and want to make a time to meet." If you will buy it no questions asked and will make the process quick and painless because you recognize what is here, I will happily drop the price to $2500 so you have money towards towing the parts car, registration, gas, and being helpful. Contact me: Brian: show contact info or email!
  14. I know this has been beaten up on the board for awhile. Undergoing a 245 5 speed and differential swap from the same 320i donor. This makes it at least a 1980 plus donor. Yes: The donor differential is narrower. What I plan on doing is using the 320 rear axle. Thus 320 CV on the inboard side and 02 CV outside. It seems a few have had done this using the longer 320 shaft and there was no need for spacers. Yet there is a nice write up where this was done and spacers were needed. Just need clarification for this specific set up: 320i diff from a 1980-82. 320 axle-shaft from the same car. 320 inboard CV (not the fat one from a 79) 02 outside CV. Spacers needed? If spacers are needed what thickness? Thank you for any help.
  15. Longtime faq fanatic from the Bay Area, all parts located in Los Gatos, Ca. All parts are sold "as is". Willing to ship but buyer assumes complete shipping costs but prefer local pickup. Paypal or cash in person only. Selling all pieces individually or as a whole, name your price everything must go. 1. Late model transmission, shifts perfect, small leak in the rear, seal from Blunttech is included in the sale of tranny - SOLD 2. Torque converter- SOLD flywheel good condition 3. Automatic pedal box no rust - 4. Auto driveshaft good condition 5. Transmission cooler hoses to radiator 6. Automatic trunk script - SOLD 7. Center console gear selector base (pictured), and shifter (not pictured) Thank you for viewing, Edgar L.
  16. Hello guys! I am doing a m44 with m42 injection swap on my oh2. All is done (almost)! The only thing I have to do is wire all this thing and it seems a big job for me. I need to know everything and all the steps to wire this. I saw the swap notes from jake but it seems like Chinese to me. Also, Ive got the harness of the m42 PLUS the harness of the m44. On the m44 harness, I dont have the coil wires. I dont see any cut wires tho. Can someone help me ? I would really like to drive this beast before the end of summer Thank you for your future answers !
  17. Hello guys! I am doing a m44 with m42 injection swap on my oh2. All is done (almost)! The only thing I have to do is wire all this thing and it seems a big job for me. I need to know everything and all the steps to wire this. I saw the swap notes from jake but it seems like Chinese to me. Also, Ive got the harness of the m42 PLUS the harness of the m44. On the m44 harness, I dont have the coil wires. I dont see any cut wires tho. Can someone help me ? I would really like to drive this beast before the end of summer Thank you for your future answers !
  18. 68Roundie

    m20 swap mounts

    Just wanted to see if any of the awesome fabricators in this forum had or were in the process of making the adapter mounts for swapping an m20 into the 2002.
  19. okay, So here is the video of my 1.8 that I will be putting in my 75 '02. After a 30 mile drive home this is what I heard. I also pulled the wires individual on each cyl to see if it made a difference. When I pulled wires off cyl 2-3 it made no difference. Cyl 1 and 4 made the motor want to die.. Any thoughts??
  20. Posting my 1974 BMW 2002 up for sale. My father and I purchased this car with intentions of restoring it, but now our driveway is filling up and we need to thin out the herd. The car starts and runs on ether. It was sitting for a few years prior to purchasing it, so I did not try to run it off the tank. I would suggest cleaning it before that. But, I can start it and show you when you come to look.The drivetrain from an early 80's e21 320is has been swapped into this car, meaning:Fuel Injected M105 Speed Getrag 245 TransmissionIf you know anything about these cars and these swaps, it's not a cheap or simple to obtain swap.The car iself is very solid. All 4 strut towers are completely solid and rust free.Malaga Red exterior, Tan interior. The seats were refinished a few years ago, and it shows. The leather is very soft and supple (nicer than my E24's seats!)Has a dealer-added Behr Air Condition system installed.The car does need paint and cleanup of the body, as it is flaking off with age. There's some rust, but only two holes in the car: on the drivers floor near the pedal box, and the spare tire well (both pictured). The rest of the floor and trunk floor are completely solid. This is a perfect running resto-candidate. All the hardwork is done here. Paint it, clean up trim etc, and you'll have a fantastic car.TL:DR; The car is complete, and the swap is done and running.We're not in a rush to sell this car, and certainly do not need to sell it. Just would like to free up some space and see it go somewhere where it will be finished and enjoyed.$4850 obo. Cash only, no trades. Clean NJ title in hand.The car is available to be seen in Wayne, NJ. About 20 mins from NYC, 2 hours from Philly.Flexible on times to show it, feel free to contact me via text/call for a quick response to any questions.
  21. Made the journey up from Portland to Seattle's annual '02 meet — 2002 heaven + a beautiful Seattle skyline! Looking forward to the next one! PHOTOS:
  22. Started a youtube vlog / car videos just my restoration and m20 swap learning as I go more videos coming check them out share tyhem let me know what you think. Subscribe if you would like thanks everyone
  23. About to venture into wiring in my m20 in the coming weeks. I'm feeling a little out of my element with wiring anyone have a good breakdown of wiring up the c101 and alternator wiring and pretty much everything. Thanks
  24. So really want to use the manimal mounts for my m20 swap but cant seem to get a hold of him. Does anyone know a good way to get a hold of him or anyone have a set for sale? Thanks
  25. Looking into doing m20 swap I would like to use the getrag 260 wondering if you can do it without cutting the trans tunnel or what options there are? This website says you can make it fit with a little force and trimming some things off the outside of the trans.