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  1. Yesterday
  2. Mark92131

    Single side draft Weber

    Diego: I have the same setup on my car. I just converted to top crossbar linkage for throttle control, but before that I used the top mount holes on the Lynx manifold for my throttle return spring. The holes are 3/8" with a 16 pitch, just need to bend a piece of steel stock from home depot in to an "L" shape, drill a couple of holes and get 2 short 3/8"-16 bolts. I won't flex as much as your current setup. You can see the bolts holding the steel stock, but my return spring was on the opposite side for my cable setup. Mark92131
  3. Last week
  4. Dionk

    Accumulating Parts -

    Dual Weber’s 40’s cannon manafolds ( have Korman as well no sure which to use) Bosch e30 m3 starter Bosch alternator Blunttech 5 speed convenience kit front wheel bearings etc...
  5. Dionk

    Cleaning up my calipers

    Lots of life and work things going on, though I managed to get a few minutes in the garage with a wire wheel.
  6. Djthom

    Interior Refurbishment

    Thanks all. The WN headliner is the original snake skin. I've heard they aren't selling them anymore due to rod seams coming open and the incorrect c pillar flag locations. Must be frustrating to deal with the returns.
  7. Dudeland

    Now for a nice tune.

    Kinda. I transferred and smoothed (once). I will see what it does tomorrow.
  8. This car has had more carb upgrades than all of the other 12 BMW 2002's I have owned. We started with the original 1 barrel Solex, to a horrible Weber 34 ICH, to a Weber 36/32, to a Weber 38/38, to a Weber 45 DCOE 152 and finally to a Weber 45 DCOE 152G. During the final upgrade to the 152G, I decided that the cable-based throttle control that came with the TEP Lynx package (https://www.racetep.com/bmw-m10-2002-320i-single-sidedraft-weber-kit.html) should be upgraded at the same time, so I started reading all the FAQ posts on the subject and reached out to a couple of FAQ members that had upgraded the throttle linkage on their Lynx manifold setup... Crickets! So this was going to be an exercise in trial and error. I started with a Universal Single DCOE Linkage kit from Pierce Manifolds (https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99006.104.htm). From the description, it looked like it had everything I would need to convert my cable throttle linkage to a top mount crossbar linkage. After the package arrived, there was an immediate issue, the holes on the Lynx manifold are 3/8" - 16 pitch and the rod ends in the kit are 3/8" - 24 pitch, so they don't/won't screw in. OK, easy fix, I just need an adapter stud with 3/8" - 16 on one end and 3/8" - 24 on the other. I actually found a kit of 5 on Amazon, (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QZG3H0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), ordered them up along with new 3/8" - 24 female 5/16" rod ends from McMaster to match the rod in the kit. In my original setup, I fabricated a throttle return spring using the top mount linkage holes on the Lynx manifold. Now that that area was being repurposed for the crossbar linkage, I needed another solution for the return spring and purchased DCOE EXTERNAL SPRING KIT LT5000 from Pierce Manifold and installed it on the new Weber 45 DCOE 152G. When all the parts arrived, I assembled the new linkage and found that the lever connecting the stock throttle rod to the pedal box throttle linkage wasn't long enough to reach the rod end, so I used a piece of stock steel from home depot to extend the lever, (first photo). Another issue was the rod in the kit was only 11" long, so the lever controlling the stock throttle rod was at the very end of the rod and the levers in the kit were not very robust, (flexible). The result was very disappointing, too much flex, not enough throttle opening and not the smooth action I was expecting at the gas pedal. My first thought was upgrading the levers to the longer, more robust aluminum versions from Pierce Manifolds, so I ordered 2 of BILLET THROTTLE LEVER 3/8 SHAFT 32000, without realizing that these won't fit the 5/16" rod from the kit. When they arrived and obviously didn't fit the rod, it was on to Plan B. Let's just upgrade everything to 3/8", so I jumped on McMaster and ordered a 12" 3/8 Rod, 3/8" - 24 Female threaded 3/8" Rod Ends, and 3/8" Shaft Collars for my setup. I also ordered a new 8mm Ball throttle lever for the DCOE, because the one from the kit had a stiff action. If you were starting from scratch, these are the 8 parts I ordered. 1. BILLET THROTTLE LEVER 3/8 SHAFT 32000 - $28.65 x 2 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/32000.htm 2. DCOE EXTERNAL SPRING KIT LT5000 - $32.24 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/lt5000.htm 3. DCOE Throttle Lever 45041.009 - $18.40 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/45041.009.htm 4. JPS adjustable rod 75500.100 - $22.50 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/75500.100.htm 5. Rotary Shaft, 1566 Carbon Steel, 3/8" Diameter, 12" Long 1346K11 - $7.58 https://www.mcmaster.com/1346k11 6. Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Thread 60645K34 - $3.78 x 2 https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k34 7. Set Screw Shaft Collar for 3/8" Diameter, 303 Stainless Steel 6462K14 - $3.86 x 2 https://www.mcmaster.com/6462k14 8. Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973217150 Automotive Studs, 3/8-16 x 3/8-24 x 1-1/2 - $10.04 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QZG3H0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 After receiving all the parts and assembling them (see pictures), the results didn't disappoint, the action at the gas pedal is instantaneous and snaps back perfectly. No stretch or lag from the cable setup. The billet lever to the pedal box throttle rod was still too short, so I extended it as before. I treated myself to a pair of new air horns from Corsa Velocita https://www.corsavelocita.com/store. I hope this helps someone looking for the same upgrade. Mark92131
  9. Tsingtao_1903

    3D printed bits

    Much easier the second time around. Bought a set of wheel hub caps to use as inserts. Modeled the horn pad. Printed the bits.
  10. Mario Falfan

    Body Modifications

    That rear bumper looks gorgeous, you went for the real deal ! Am about to change my bumpers but am going on the stainless steel shiny version much cheaper... There's a bit of work involved, you have to weld where the shock holes go , there big holes and bondo the little holes around the rear. I will post the pics in the coming weeks, I just purchased the bumpers and the brackets, Feliz Navidad to me...
  11. Mario Falfan

    Reverse Driving Season

    That perro looks like the Mad Max pooch !
  12. Mario Falfan

    Interior Refurbishment

    First and foremost my wife Veronica gave me the carpet as a Xmas present. When it came in, somewhere in the middle of November she said "Go put it on" Stockinteriors, the many, nylon loop, I asked for some swatches, I ended settling with 602, I felt that was the closest color to the original. I thought the carpet was very affordable, under $300.00
  13. I'll be happy to host the images on my server if you'll PM them to me.
  14. I completely understand where you're coming from with a day long repair turning into a weekend (or week). Keep up the good work!
  15. Earlier
  16. BritshIron

    A Quantum of Solex Part 2

    Thanks so much for the reply. Yes, I have a set of intakes for the 1600 TI. Actually, one is an NOS 1600 TI intake, and the rear I found is from an 1800 TI, but I believe identical to the 1600 TI. I found NOS pistons in Greece, and other bits from an FAQ'er. I'll write alfa1750 and Ruddies right away about the 30 mm chokes. I really appreciate the tips! Aloha, Robert
  17. MoBrighta

    The Beginning

    lcome one and all! Back in August, I was contacted by Henry (hc2002) for a set of high output bulbs for his 1972 2002 tii. He had seen my posts, and was wanting some brighter tail lights and brake lights for more respect from following drivers, I assume. Anyway, we got to talking, and it seems we both recognized the benefits of a CHMSL, for Center High Mount Stop Light, or 'third brake light' that is now standard issue on cars and trucks. Here's where it gets weird... there are a few forum threads talking about installing third brake lights that have been pilfered from other cars, or new LED versions from whoever sells them. Hella makes (and Daniel Stern sells) a nice LED one, but it's not free. All of them get more attention than even bright 2002 tails get, that is all good. But since Henry was kind of used to round tail lights, he wondered whether I could make him a center brake light for his 2002tii, starting with a round tail light from another 2002. Hey, as the saying goes - I got more guts than brains, so I said "Let me see what I can do." And that is how this project got started. I'll post more later, with progress reports and pictures... and Henry will be posting the results of the installation later, when the mounting bracket is done. Ciao for now! Andy
  18. OMG....I have the same car color and blue interior with the cloth insert, but it's a 1975
  19. NYNick

    Remiss

    I can't believe it's been a year and a half since my last blog entry. So much has happened I can barely remember it all! Since I left off sending the car off to the paint shop, I'll start there. Had it towed 30 some odd miles and gave the guy some cash to get started, along with a signed estimate. Quite honestly I was nervous about how the whole thing would go, what with rust removal, new fenders, new front air dam, new floor pans, paint color change etc etc. There have been so many horror stories about guys leaving their cars at body shops (especially in the Porsche world) only to either get it back to find horrendous workmanship or to be held hostage by the shop until they paid exorbitant extra charges to get their car back. None of that happened to me. I vowed to stop by unannounced and often, making sure they were working on the car and doing the stuff I had asked them to do. This shop, like many, make their money on insurance claims, so therefore mine was a side job. I also brought more cash with me each time, to show appreciation and to keep them interested. Yes, I had them initial the invoice each time. Sure I stopped by more than once to find no progress, but other times I found them covered in dust or paint while working on the car. There were also small decisions to be made, andI found it valuable to see the progress as it happened. In the end I had to push them to get it done. He was there almost 6 months over the winter and it was time. Cue the tow truck. Here we go!
  20. dhr.vdw

    Some progress on the body

    Thanks! Nee ik weet niet welk type, de eigenaar voor de eigenaar waar ik de auto van kocht heet de kooi waarschijnlijk custom gelast. Binnenkort naar de stralen, keep you updated! Grt, Jan-Pieter
  21. Just scanned this today. With OEM numbers and pictures. Orignal & Complete BMW-Sonderzubehoer.pdf
  22. Road trip

    1600 and 2002 differences

    1600’s has 200mm brake drums 2002 has 230mm would you happen to know is they both used the same upper brake shoe spring bow?
  23. This is a list of the current things I have noticed about the car, roughly in order of how serious I am about fixing them. The goal is to separate out each of these into it's own blog post, regardless of size, but we will see how that works out. Burning oil/bad smells. There is a reason I have named the car "Mr Toots"; there is the acrid smell of (what I believe to be) burning oil when I drive it. Originally, I suspected valve guide seals, because of problem #2, but I've noticed that there is oil around the valve cover and believe it is either the valve cover gasket or PCV system. Here's the entry I made on the replacement. The replacement helped a little, but not much. After I took the car in to my mechanic for a tune-up, he diagnosed the smells as transmission fluid on the exhaust, from a leaky rear seal. This problem is fixed, now. Really slow cold start. When I got the car, it started quickly. I'd hit a priming button on the dash to inject fuel into the manifold for around 2 seconds, then turn it over and start quickly. I performed an oil change after I got the car to 20W50 Full Synthetic, and now it takes a lot of love to get it to start when cold, involving multiple priming attempts and turning on and off the extra fuel injectors. The root cause of a lot of this is the cobbled-together nature of the fuel injection system. It seems like changing the oil was the root of the problem, which seems like an ill omen. Different people have suggested the valve guides are worn or something like that, but I don't get a lot of smoke when the car does start, so I'm not sure about that. I eventually fixed this by noticing that the cold start relay was unplugged from the battery. I must have knocked it loose during the oil change. Idiot! Handbrake is not strong enough. I was hoping this was a simple cable adjustment, but from reading around, it isn't that simple and I may need to replace the rear drum lining. If I'm gonna do that, I'm probably going to look into a disc brake swap while I'm all up in there. Front seats don't fold forward. I know that they are not original, and I can't find a lever anywhere to adjust inclination. Found out the seats are from a later model 300-series car without inclination adjustment. I need to replace these seats to get full access to the back of the car. Low power. The car is fun to drive but remarkably low on power before the turbo spools. Coming from a small british sportscar with a 1275cc engine, Mr. Toots feels very sluggish under 3000rpm, and roughly equivalent in 'oomph' when under 4psi of boost. My other car has a weight:power ratio of around 20:1, whereas a stock tii is nominally 17:1, so I think I should be getting a little more out in the lower range. This is a lower priority issue and I think other work on this car will improve the power more. I also know that chasing power is the best way to be disappointed in a car, so I don't care about this as much as long as I have that sweet, sweet boost to keep me company. Loose steering. There is about 10-15 degrees of play in the steering wheel when moving. I'd like to nail down the cause before deciding whether it is worth fixing. See #7 as well. Fluid check & swap. I've changed the engine oil but plan on also replacing: Turbo oil Coolant Gearbox oil: Completed by Mechanic in August, replaced rear seal as well. Diff fluid Suspension. The car feels pretty tight but I have doubts about the rear shocks. Will likely replace all shocks as an excuse to take a look at the car. Also will try to put as many bolt-on suspension upgrades as possible. Will not do anything that requires modifying the frame. I'd like to build a bolt-on rear strut reinforcement. I have found references to them existing in the past but can't find anyone selling them these days. If I move to adjustable rear coilovers, I'd like the extra reinforcement without needing to weld in a cage. Auxiliary stuff. These are just other things I want to do to the car: Fog light mounts. In progress, using some proprietary materials from work. Will publish once we've announced them publicly. Exhaust O2 sensor. Installation and mounting in console or on dash. Re-doing center console. Because it looks like crap. Tracking down stereo system problems. Despite having a costly looking setup, the sound quality is fairly garbage and the driver's side speaker cuts in randomly. I hate electrical work, so this is low priority. I'd like to find a way to get Campagnolo wheels on the thing, I love the look of vintage gold campy's or reproduction versions. Plus I am a bike person and I find the idea of putting Campagnolo wheels on a car funny. An E21 LSD swap would be fun, since I haven't touched that part of a car yet, but I am not sold on it yet. I'll know after I take a look at the diff during a fluid swap. After checking out all brakes, I may want to upgrade. The car stops well, but I need to be more maneuverable than anything else on the road to feel safe in a vehicle this old. Figuring out the body. Rear half of the car has a matte black primer job on it, front has glossy black which is cracking off. There is some red (likely Malaga) under the front black paint, but blue under the back. I think that the car was halfway primered with blue at some point. It's a mess. My mechanic confided in me that the rear clip of this car comes from a '75 or '76, which slipped the mind of the fellow that sold the car to me. I need someone really good to take a look at the weld job and see about blending everything in a bit more before doing a full repaint. There is a weld bead near the drivers side brake light. Clearly the car has seen an impact in that corner. Would like to investigate the rear frame more. There are a few random rust patches that I should treat. The hood is not aligned correctly and interferes with the passenger door opening. I need a buddy to help with this. It is high priority. I gave a non-car minded person a ride and they slammed the door, bending the corner of the hood to the point where it no longer opens. I have to bend it back out and re-align the hood. This really sucks right now. On 5/17, someone did a nice hit and run on the side and bent the driver side rear quarter panel in a bit. Animals. On 5/24, someone also shattered my left rear light. I think it was the garbage men. I'll update this list as time goes on, and provide links to the relevant posts for each issue.
  24. jrhone

    M2

    I think we are all wondering the ballpark YOU paid for it....Cool find!
  25. RacingAli

    Question on the steering system

    Just make sure to match the stock Ackerman and you should be fine.
  26. Scottjeffrey

    Passenger floor pan replacement

    Nice going Digs. Good work there.
  27. Scottjeffrey

    DIY evaporator

    Yes, live and learn and God bless the adventurer's spirit!
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