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Hello Again Old Friend

On August 1, 1969 My mom bought this 1600 from Hafkemeyer BMW Motors in Kansas City, Missouri.  It was her first car and it was my uncle who convinced her to buy the BMW over a Volvo at the time.  She paid $2,700.   It was sold as a demonstrator and appears to have been slightly discounted.  The black and white picture is of it in Nebraska shortly after purchase.  She named it Rocinante after Don Quixote’s horse and it brought her on her move from Nebraska to Connecticut and served as her daily

Horn

Horn in Background

engine compartment clean-up

Hello fellow engine compartment gazers....   I know I can probably score 75% on this test but rather than that I figured I would ask you all which holes you would absolutely fill before I paint.   Note the drivers side front radiator cut out is larger than normal I know that - I may have the shop fix that so my radiator no longer needs the flanges I made for it.  My gut tells me to make it original size by adding the four inches back in t

In the Begining

The journey began on a dreary September 2019 weekend. After a few road trips and some negotiation I purchased a strong running 1974 2002tii. Having owned a handful of 60's era Detroit machines I was looking forward to the challenge of a vintage BMW.    The good - Prior owner had sorted out the mechanical well. The car started, ran well, dependable, solid floors & shock towers.    The bad - Rusty rockers, front fenders and quarter panels, and the general lack of BMW knowle

MMIITII

MMIITII in Rust Repair

Engine plans

As I mentioned at the end of my last post, my immediate drive line plans are to ditch the m10. The ideal choice for me was an m20 because nothing beats a bmw i6. Backup choice, and all around easier swap, is the m42. Facebook marketplace made that decision a lot easier for me with a $400 m42+g240 about 15 miles away.    The engine has about 200k on it so at the very least a minor refresh is in order. I decided to pull the head and oil pan to inspect everything. I'm glad I did. No catas

nc325ic

nc325ic in Stage 1

EFIing an M10

So this issue of EFIing an old M10 motor comes up repeatedly from time to time and so I brought my thoughts about this together. I don’t know if there’s already a blog entry or write-up, so… sorry if repeating. Please feel free to add all your info, opinions and experience to make this a helpful content for later readers! Talking about the reasons for EFI doesn’t make sense here I think. Let the pros-and-cons discussion take place somewhere else.   Fuel supply (This does not

Efi progress

Been a while since my last post, been slow going for a bit through the winter and broke my wrist mid January. Anyway back to work on the efi swap. I turned some plugs on my lathe to plug up unused ports on the m20b25 throttle body. Got my ecu and am starting to build the harness. I made a harness with rope so I can pull it out and measure/ build it on the bench rather than fight it in the car. Got the relay box almost done now just waiting for some pins for my connectors of the correct gauge for

twinnr1523

twinnr1523 in Efi

What wooden wheel

Hey, what's that? A stock 71-73 tii wheel I found in a shelf in summer of 2015. A slotted three-spoker. Spokes rusty and the foam... Gone. And now, what to do with it? Paint the spokes, yes, but the foam? I'm not familiar with replacing or shaping foam. Oak sounds some similar, so let's go oak.   The wheel's core:       Hm... A kind of oval steel profile around. I started a first try to find out what's doable:       Continuing:  

The third progress report from G&M Autobody

moving along this is to show the inner panel needed patching. Here are the panels from W&N - .0277 thick.  p/n A41 35 1 855 113  Hood looks great... down to the metal     Rear deck needed a bit more effort - was hard to close due to latch not properly tensioned - PO must have slammed his hands down on it one to many times   Rear panel looking good too! Removed a bunch of extra bondo from PO     Ahhhhh

Intro to my 67 project

Back in January 2019 I picked up a '67 1600-2. I've always preferred the early cars so despite some of the rust issues I picked it up. I've welded (flux) before, but I wanted to get better, so I told myself, "F*** it, let's buy a C25 bottle and get good at grinding."  😁   First order of business was to contact the BMW group archive. "The BMW 1602 VIN 1529238 was manufactured on June 19th, 1967 and delivered on June 29th, 1967 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New Yo

jmr_1602

jmr_1602 in 1600

The second progress report from the body shop!

Hey all - looking good.  You can see the W&N patch panels for the outer wheel wells are clamped in - they are waiting for the inners from me.    The dent in passenger door is removed.        Drivers door sanded and primed.     Drivers rear QP waiting for patch panel inner and outer.  Rear panel sanded and my patch panel finished by the pro's.         Hood and Deck Lid sanding away the old paint to bare m

Update as of March 29, 2021

So as of this point the headliner is out and almost all of the dynamat is off the floor. I just got my 10 tooth/slat grill in today for the car. So that puts me at 4 NLA/unobtainable parts acquired for the car. Those parts being the two spoke steering wheel, swan neck mirror, embossed belt line trim and 10 slat grill. Hopefully by the 3rd of April the dynamat will all be out and the floor will be all set with POR15 applied.  IMG_0981.MP4

Early Nose Trim Restoration

Just received the restored slotted nose trim. The shop worked wondrous miracles & exceeded my expectations. Was lucky to be able to buy this elusive trim here from a friend who sold it on the FAQ. Here are the before & after photos. The "kink" in the trim was very difficult to massage out, yet the craftsman was able to do the near impossible & get it to 99%.  

Small progress

... because it's the little things that count.   So to build from my last post. I did some of what I said I should do. #1 I got the car warmed up and made sure the coolant was all set. Good to go there.   In an effort to eliminate a potential vacuum leak I disconnected and plugged the vacuum line to the distributor and then set out on tuning the idle. I screwed the mixture screw in probably 1+ full turns until the idle came up. So i dropped down a jet size and did it again un

nc325ic

nc325ic in Stage 1

that first call from the body shop...

Hey all -   I finally chose a body shop for my project.   G & M in San Bruno, CA- competitive pricing and some expert references and a super clean and efficient body shop.   And today the owner gave me that dreaded first call!  Not so bad!  Just need to get some more patch panels from W&N!     So good news for sure.  I hope things move along faster than quoted - 6 mos.        

Finished wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring

I apologize for the duplicate post if you've already seen this in the Discussion area. This is a follow-up to my previous post about electrical components.     A few days ago, I received a very nicely packaged and documented harnesses in the correct colors and tape!     My old connectors and grommets, if proprietary, were transferred over.  The old harness was also returned as well.        As for the price... this was the first 6-fuse 200

So, Covid and other things

Well, last I posted the world was a different place. What a difference one year makes! Keeping this car related, there was a lot of drama at the body & paint shop. Since we weren't in a big hurry to get the work done it wasn't a big deal. But now that we're all moved into the new house and things have quieted down AND I've got another garage available to work in. I want the car back asap. Summer is coming!   The drama at the shop initially had us worried the work wouldn't get

Poor planning

So I am now beginning to think that I may have done too many things at once.    Here's what I did, all at once: Remove AC, Remove EGR, reject carb to cdiesel prescription, refresh cooling system, rebuild heater box   Here's what I should have done, one at a time, not necessarily in this order 1) check timing 2) adjust/reject carb 3) remove EGR 4) Repeat steps 1+2 5) Remove AC and refresh cooling system   Not only would this have kept th

nc325ic

nc325ic in Stage 1



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