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71 1602 Pig Cheek


jmr_1602

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spring rates? 300lbs? Paired with rabbit sport inserts?

Hey Ryan,

7" 300lbs springs, shortened and increased camber strut housings, with rabbit sport inserts and offset roll-center spacers.

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- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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How much did you have cut out of the stock housings? 7" may be a bit short. I'd recommend 8" 250-275lb springs with the rabbit inserts (Bilstein Sports).

 

I removed 2.5" from the housings, used rabbit Bilstein Sports, and 7" Hyperco 275lb springs (better than Eibach imo). If I were to do it again, I'd suggest the same thing but with an 8" spring. 300lbs is pretty stiff. Shouldn't be jarring, but it will be noticeably stiff.

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I'm not sure how much was cut. I sent an extra set of housings to IE for modifications. I'll compare them to the stock ones on my car and find out.

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll see how I like the 300's. If I don't like 'em I'll give the Hyperco springs a shot.

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- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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How much did you have cut out of the stock housings? 7" may be a bit short. I'd recommend 8" 250-275lb springs with the rabbit inserts (Bilstein Sports).

 

I removed 2.5" from the housings, used rabbit Bilstein Sports, and 7" Hyperco 275lb springs (better than Eibach imo). If I were to do it again, I'd suggest the same thing but with an 8" spring. 300lbs is pretty stiff. Shouldn't be jarring, but it will be noticeably stiff.

 

Just checked. IE removed 2.5".

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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You'll get your desired stance, but there won't be much room to go higher. You can go much lower, but not much higher. It's a weird trade off but I'd think an decent 8" spring would be able to correct this and allow you to use more of the adjuster.

 

It will all make sense when you mount it all up.

 

 

But this is a good set up. 

some cars

some motorcycles

some airplanes

some surfboards

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  • 1 month later...

Finished the paint. Still have to buff out some trouble areas but other than that I think it came out great.

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I had turbo flare trim on the rear pig cheeks before, but that was when it was black on black. Now it's not working with the new color, so I will be removing the rubber trim.

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Alpina airdam from Dave Pineda.

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To do list:

Install rebuilt front hubs.

Install new center bearing and guibo.

Install new door and rear 1/4 window rubber.

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Edited by jmr_1602

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Well, I finished upgrading my front (Volvo) and rear (250mm drums) brakes. What a pain in the ass that was, one seized bolt after another. Literally took me two weeks to finish; however, now I noticed a leak at my brake master cylinder. I'm not looking forward to changing this out. Mostly because I hate bleeding brakes. 

 

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Once I had my brakes sorted out, I got working on my driveshaft. The center bearing was toast. Everything was going very smoothly. Removed the bolts from the guibo/output flange no problem, removed three of the bolts from the differential flange no problem...bolt number four, problem. I figured I'd use the techniques I learned from removing seized bolts while working on my brakes. PB Blaster, heat, flare nut wrench. Nothing worked and I rounded off the nut...so I just cut it off. Got to replace em anyways.

 

Told ya it was toast.

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I'll tackle taking apart the drive shaft after I rebuild my shifter. In the meantime I'll soak it with PB Blaster everyday until I'm ready.

Edited by jmr_1602

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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Got around to removing my old center bearing last night. The night prior I slimmed my 24mm box wrench on a table grinder. I shaved enough to where I could easily slip the box end onto the drive shaft nut.

I picked up a piece of angle bar from Lowes to use as a brace for when I loosen/tighten the nut. I used the transmission flange to mark where to drill my holes and then attached the shaft to it using some M8 bolts I had laying around.

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Once the drive shaft was secured to the angle bar I laid it in the drive way and rolled my 4Runner over the angle bar for some added weight. I ended up having to cut the open end of my 24mm wrench so I could get my breaker bar on, but after that loosening the nut was cake.

I made sure to mark the spines with a paint marker before disassembling the drive shaft.

After that I used my hub puller to remove the old center bearing.

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When installing the new CSB I used some lithium grease to help facilitate getting it back on. Lined up my marks I made with the paint marker and tightened everything back up.

Hopefully tonight I can get everything back on the car.

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- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rebuilt the shift linkage with a kit I ordered from Blunt. In the 6 years I've owned this car it has never felt this good moving into gears. After that I installed the driveshaft and drove the car around the block. Big difference in how the car feels now.

I also finished installing the drivers side rear quarter window with new BMW seals. Little harder than the passenger side. Only because I have a fixed back OMP seat and it's hard getting to the backseats.

Once that was finished I moved onto the door gasket from URO. What a PIA! The passenger side I had used a BMW door seal which went really smoothly. Only took about an hour. This URO seal took me 3! I had to cut it where the top meets the B-pillar in order to use it. It's like it was meant for the right side but was clearly stamped with an "L." I plan on replacing it with an OEM door seal when I get the chance.

No nice pictures to show but here's a shot of the car after I finished everything last night.

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And a pic from a few weeks ago.

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Edited by jmr_1602

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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*repost from "What did you do to your 2002 today" thread.

Used some plastidip to give the car an Alpina look. After I changed my brake booster hose and valve, added the angled UNI filters I got on sale at Amazon, and replaced my valve cover with this non-ribbed one (sorry ladies.)

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- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

Finished up a valve job last night. I used the BMW special tool for turning the engine with the dual timing chains. I highly recommend one. Found mine on eBay for $68.

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I also had some fun with my tachometer. I posted about it yesterday in another thread, but thought I should add it to my build thread here.

Anyways, I studied images of an early Alpina tachometer and illustrated my own. I could not find a matching typeface for the numerals, so I made them from scratch. They new overlay was printed on 3M vinyl. The real tachs have the silver dollars painted black and an adjustable red needle. I opted to not paint mine. I also added a green "fun zone" and the stock redline.

The original Alpina tach.

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My version before install.

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Overlay applied.

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And this morning installed in the 1600.

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I will offer this version and one that is more true to the original design (no green, or red) in the near future.

Jason

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Edited by jmr_1602

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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I just realized I never added the photos of the actual finished car.  Doh! I think most FAQ'rs have seen them, but here they are for posterity.

 

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The only visual change I made was to the BMW ALPINA logo. Slight change to a more correct version.

 

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- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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