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Help(!) on a Cannon intake install


pikeperkins

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N00b question...

So I bought a Cannon intake from Ireland. Took the old, de-smogged intake off and put the Cannon in place to try to figure it all out.

Photobucket

Well, the Cannon has a few less hookups than the de-smogged intake. The pamphlet from Ireland did say that I "may need to either block or re-route some original water hoses".

This picture shows (in green) where I get (or at least I think I get it). I don't get the red .

Photobucket

Also, the bottom has this opening, where if I fit the upper water hose to "where I think I get it" the coolant will spill all over the place and get my new, oversprayed block all wet and ruin the innards, which we all know, isn't good. Not to mention that big water hose hanging out. He's not going to catch all the coolant falling down from above, is he!?!

Photobucket

Can anyone help an idiot in training? If you can, thanks! (BTW, I did search for "cannon, cannon AND install, etc)". -Pike

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You are missing the piece on the bottom (Red ?) that connects the water pump hose to the heater hose. This is used to warm up the intake manifold and avoid puddling of gas in the bottom. You are also missing the nipple for your brake booster.

Now, if you can't locate the missing bottom piece, you can use a 320i Water neck and the 320i bypass tube to connect the water pump hose to the heater hose.

I hope this helps.

Mark92131

1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)

 

 

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You are missing the piece on the bottom (Red ?) that connects the water pump hose to the heater hose. This is used to warm up the intake manifold and avoid puddling of gas in the bottom. You are also missing the nipple for your brake booster.

Now, if you can't locate the missing bottom piece, you can use a 320i Water neck and the 320i bypass tube to connect the water pump hose to the heater hose.

I hope this helps.

Mark92131

Mark, thanks for the reply! First, the new intake didn't come with that bottom piece and my old intake doesn't have it. Also, that mystery line on the right isn't my brake booster hose, it's a hose that comes out of the block and used to connect to the old intake as well. By my count, there are 3 hoses and only one fitting that I can use off my old intake. I'm surprised no one else has run into this problem? Thanks again. -Pike

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Guest Anonymous
I bought a Cannon intake from Ireland. Took the old, de-smogged intake off and put the Cannon in place to try to figure it all out. If you can, thanks! (BTW, I did search for "cannon, cannon AND install, etc)". -Pike

Hello Pike:

Your cannon manifold is a vestige from the days before BMW was mass producing a two barrel manifold. It allowed you to remove the single barrel manifold and bolt on a two barrel. Did you notice the size of the runners? Do they match the ports on the head? Some are smaller in diameter than the stock two barrel manifold, but this may be a good thing especially if you are looking for low speed torque.

Getting to at least one of your questions, there is a plate from the stock one barrel manifold that enables you to heat the manifold. You will see it and the gasket in the diagram pictured below. It should be a direct bolt on to your cannon manifold. You do not necessarily need it for decent operation, if you are solely after performance. However, heating the manifold provides better driveability in cold climates as it keeps the fuel atomized. (I use one on one of my cars) See if you can locate someone with a stock intact one barrel manifold with its fittings and you should be ok. Most vendors assume you will be able to transfer those parts to the new cannon. Thanks for not stating you are looking for a warm and fuzzy feeling. lol

26.png

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I bought a Cannon intake from Ireland. Took the old, de-smogged intake off and put the Cannon in place to try to figure it all out. If you can, thanks! (BTW, I did search for "cannon, cannon AND install, etc)". -Pike

Hello Pike:

Your cannon manifold is a vestige from the days before BMW was mass producing a two barrel manifold. It allowed you to remove the single barrel manifold and bolt on a two barrel. Did you notice the size of the runners? Do they match the ports on the head? Some are smaller in diameter than the stock two barrel manifold, but this may be a good thing especially if you are looking for low speed torque.

Getting to at least one of your questions, there is a plate from the stock one barrel manifold that enables you to heat the manifold. You will see it and the gasket in the diagram pictured below. It should be a direct bolt on to your cannon manifold. You do not necessarily need it for decent operation, if you are solely after performance. However, heating the manifold provides better driveability in cold climates as it keeps the fuel atomized. (I use one on one of my cars) See if you can locate someone with a stock intact one barrel manifold with its fittings and you should be ok. Most vendors assume you will be able to transfer those parts to the new cannon. Thanks for not stating you are looking for a warm and fuzzy feeling. lol

26.png

Wow, thanks! I bought this intake to clean up the area and so I wouldn't have to "hog" out the old intake. So what I gather is that I may not need the plate to heat the gas, as I live in Florida. However, ther are cold days in Florida, nevertheless (as I think you know). Ugh, one step forward, two steps back....Thanks again, guys! -Pike

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Guest Anonymous

Couple of other thoughts.

Not all holes in the manifold need to be open. Often you will see some of those ports blocked or plugged. In particular the smaller coolant port could be used for a water cooled choke. If your's is a manual or electric choke or you do not use a choke (some don't) you don't need that pencil sized port. Plug it with a sealer coated bolt.

You will notice some bosses that are not tapped. The aluminum is soft and easy to tap, if you needed additional sources for manifold vacuum. You probably don't. Please read everything about the parts you buy. Your post prompted me to see what Ireland advises. Jeff clearly states what I told you about the 1 barrel coolant parts. (see below)

Its been many years since I was last in your area. I fondly remember a time you could drive A1A at warp speed and never see another car for miles.

Good luck!

manifold%202.jpg

"When using this manifold on engines with original 2 barrel mainfold you would normally use a steel or copper tube to bypass the water connection that was on the original manifold."

Ireland says the following:

"If you're replacing your 1 barrel with a 2 barrel carb you'll need one of these. This manifold is ideal for the 1 barrel replacement because it has water hookups identical to the 1 barrel manifold and comes with the proper throttle rod. The later factory 2 barrel manifolds do not. Both the 32/36 and 38 weber carbs fit with no modification required. You must reuse the water fitting from the original 1 barrel manifold."

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Couple of other thoughts.

Not all holes in the manifold need to be open. Often you will see some of those ports blocked or plugged. In particular the smaller coolant port could be used for a water cooled choke. If your's is a manual or electric choke or you do not use a choke (some don't) you don't need that pencil sized port. Plug it with a sealer coated bolt.

You will notice some bosses that are not tapped. The aluminum is soft and easy to tap, if you needed additional sources for manifold vacuum. You probably don't. Please read everything about the parts you buy. Your post prompted me to see what Ireland advises. Jeff clearly states what I told you about the 1 barrel coolant parts. (see below)

Its been many years since I was last in your area. I fondly remember a time you could drive A1A at warp speed and never see another car for miles.

Good luck!

manifold%202.jpg

"When using this manifold on engines with original 2 barrel mainfold you would normally use a steel or copper tube to bypass the water connection that was on the original manifold."

Ireland says the following:

"If you're replacing your 1 barrel with a 2 barrel carb you'll need one of these. This manifold is ideal for the 1 barrel replacement because it has water hookups identical to the 1 barrel manifold and comes with the proper throttle rod. The later factory 2 barrel manifolds do not. Both the 32/36 and 38 weber carbs fit with no modification required. You must reuse the water fitting from the original 1 barrel manifold."

Thanks again! I found the following link http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,316817/highlight,coolant+bypass/, which is great. I didn't think about searching for "coolant AND bypass" or something along those lines. I know what Jeff said is true, it's just another "obstacle". No big deal.

A1A is not like it used to be, especially the last few weeks. We don't get many Spring breakers, just enough to goof up traffic. -Pike

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