Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

40 DCOE DUAL LINKAGE ISSUE WITH WARNEFORD MANIFOLD


nicktahoe

Recommended Posts

I am having a small issue with my dual 40 DCOE linkage set-up. I am using the Warneford Manifold and I have purchased the Linkage kit from Redline (http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/dcoe_inter_connecting_linkage_in.htm). Th problem is that the 2 linkage components between the carbs are too far apart and will not interface. I am thinking about just welding on a longer tab onto the linkage control to extend it but I just wanted to see if anybody had similar problems in the past and what you might have done. Pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

post-2130-13667621908879_thumb.jpg

post-2130-13667621910944_thumb.jpg

'71 2002 Riveria

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's how I did it with the Cannons a long time ago,

and it works great. Make the tab pretty stiff, though.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not to be too ovbvious but do you have the manifold right side up? I can't imagine there being too much space between the carbs? At any rate a longer tab would probably work, but it seems an oversight that any manifold designed for dual webers wouldn't have them closer together!

Another reccomendation is to go with the pierce manifolds cable setup "top mount linkage kit". Much more easy to tune, and has great pedal feel/return.

The missing bit will be a guide that you bolt to the brake booster bracket to hold the other end of the cable housing. Bycicle cable and housing works well, thick as you can find it. You can probably fab up the bracket part as well. I think maybe TopEnd sells a throttle cable kit?

BD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another reccomendation is to go with the pierce manifolds cable setup "top mount linkage kit". Much more easy to tune, and has great pedal feel/return.

I think the top mount linkages are a huge PITA. All those extra parts overcomplicate it. He's got the carbs right side up, but they do indeed sell linkage components (listed on the page I referenced) with longer tabs so that if the carbs are indeed farther apart, then you can use the direct linkage system like that. This system literally takes 1 screw to adjust the throttle sync between the two carbs, once that is set, a single screw adjusts the idle. Carbs should have a return spring for each as well, and I've never had a problem with throttle return when I've had 2 springs.

-=Scott=-

My Short Bus

rotate.php

1971 2002 - "William Grover-Williams" - Track/Weekend Car VIN 2579197

1998 740iL E38 - "Blau" - Daily Driver

http://gallery.xfiler.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's the same setup you have, but with a throttle lever that is slightly longer. I need to apologize as I do NOT see the exact item you need on the pierce manifold site. My mistake, but I am certain they carry it as the guy who rebuilt my carbs gone one for me. Here is a modified copy of your pic. I too need a longer one. I would suggest figuring out how long you need the tab to be, and then call them and send them a pic of what you're looking for, and they'll be able to provide it for you. I'm pretty sure any of these carb sites can help you with this part if you provide them with a pic of what you're looking for. Once they see the pic you'll get that magical "Oh yea, I can get you that" over the phone. Hope this helps..

post-2130-13667621944296_thumb.jpg

-=Scott=-

My Short Bus

rotate.php

1971 2002 - "William Grover-Williams" - Track/Weekend Car VIN 2579197

1998 740iL E38 - "Blau" - Daily Driver

http://gallery.xfiler.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The put the parts on right ways solution? ;-)

Should have figured it was something like that, but my quesiton is this, looking at the way you have them set up, the warm idle adjustment screw (the one with the springy thingy) should be pressing down on the linkage on a tab in a way that it opens the butterflies slightly as you tighten it.

I can't quite see from your picture, is that the case? If so, you've got it right, if not, you won't be able to set the warm idle and something still ain't quite right.

BD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that cable contraption sure makes it hard to pop the top

if you suspect float problems...

and yes, I have one, it's in a box up on a shelf somewhere...

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...