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Can't get Rear Drum off

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Oddly one side is different to the other. The Nearside rear brake drum appears to be held on with the castlated Nut (36mm). I have got a 36mm socket and tried for love and money to remove it but it won't shift. Yes I am turning it the right way and the split pin was removed. The other side was conventional and of course just pulled off, but damned if I can get the N/S off. Am I missing something?

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As Paul said, the 36mm castle nut stays on.

It may be wear on the inside diameter of the drum from the shoes, leaving some virgin material on the very inside preventing the drum slipping over the shoes. Have you (or even can you) turned the eccentric adjusters to move the shoes in and give clearance? Probably still need the BFH to unstick it.

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I tried that it appears to be held on by the nut. I thought it might be a burr on the inner edge of the drum, but it ain't shifting, see here; http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q256/richstern/rearbrakedrum.jpg

The drum should seperate above the radius. It's probably rusted itself together. As mentioned, hit the area good with a hammer, or try heating it around (above) the radius and keep hitting it. It will give up it's grip eventually.

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....AND WHEN YOU WACK it on the wheel stud side

and the rear edges of the drum, you can cause

notching to the stub axle bearings, and damage

the grease and seals with too much heat applied.

...also knock a chunk off the drum!

some drums have a threaded hole for you

to screw in a (8mm?) screw to help push the drum

off the flange

as you face those axle nuts LEFT = LOOSE,

RIGHT = tight - so if you removed the other

side cotter pin and nut - you need to tighten

it back up with a torque wrench - and each time that

nut is retightened - bad things happen to the stub

axle, bearings, and wheels have seperated

from cars while out on the road! from stub axle

failure. Just trying to give you more information

about what's at stake here. Auto Mechanics can kill you

when done improperly.

With that amount of Long Term Rust and inattention,

those stub axle splines and bearing are likely toast.

stubaxleTOAST.jpg

02rearwheelbearings02diagramspec.jpg

axle.jpg

02reardrivewhlbrgssusppartsA.jpg

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It sounds like you are trying to remove the hub? You need to heat that nut up with some map fuel (torch) and spray some penetrating lubricant on it before hand. I had a similar problem, but with a little heat, and a long breaker bar, it eventually moved. Good luck,

Brian

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Divide the drum into quarters, take a good ball peen and hit the face working in a circle. You generally don't need to beat it up, just good clean hits and it should loosen up.

Your rust looks as good as the rust here in the Northeast......

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Don't use the round face of the hammer, tho, as you'll peen the

surface of the drum, causing it to expand, and grip the centering ring

on the hub even harder.

I had a parts car which had had that happen- you could see the divots

on the face of the drum. The 10" puller had to taco the drum almost

inside- out before it popped off...

...and if it really doesn't want to come off, that's the safest and fastest way

to destructively remove it- great big puller, grab the drum edges, and pull.

Kills the drum, leaves everything else unharmed.

hth

t

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Not to be a nag but you should get new rear drums up front. I'm not sure what prices are like in your area but if you are pulling the rear drums then => you wouldn't be putting them back together with the old shoes and w/o having them turned. If you price it, new drums are not much more expensive then having the old drums turned especially for what you get.

With the new drums in hand it would have been easy to see parting lines on the old drums.

Rick

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DONE IT. Whacked it hard on the face in a rotation direction and it popped off. I have been waiting for weeks to do this. Wheel cylinder leaking and full of gunk. This is the last mechanical job to do, then welding and then re-assembly. MOT (annual road test soon).

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Not to be a nag but you should get new rear drums up front

...no, no, no, Rick, the drums go in BACK...

heh

t

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