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EVAP hose on Weber 32/36?


fwardell

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Installed a new manual choke Weber 32/36 on my otherwise stock, but de-smogged '76 '02 about 6 months ago. Connected the EVAP hose from the charcoal canister to the nipple on the carb base, because there was no other place to connect it. Been running really well, though never could get the idle to smooth out satisfactorily. In my recent search for a hot start problem, I realized that the carb base was the wrong place as it became, in essence, a vacuum leak which was compensated for by increasing the idle richness. The stock set-up had the hose conected to the small nipple on the crankcase breather hose into the air cleaner which I eliminated when I modified it for the Weber. (The Weber air cleaner, which I didn't use, did not have such a connection.) So, yesterday I yanked the carb EVAP hose and plugged the nipple. Idled really rough until I leaned out the richness. Idles very, very smoothly now - even the wife noticed! So, what have others done with the EVAP hose with Webers? Find a way to connect to the air cleaner, plug it, just let it be open, eliminate it?

BTW, still tracking down the difficult hot start problem.

1976 2002 Inka

2008 M5 Sapphire Black Metallic, 6-speed

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...just vent it to the atmosphere

but do not 'plug it' yer tank needs to vent someplace

the european models without charcoal canister system

just run a venting hose out of the rear of the trunk floor

look for past threads for the part numbers for the parts needed

02EVAPandGasolineCONTROLDIAGRAM.jpg

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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When you wrote " I realized that the carb base was the wrong place as it became, in essence, a vacuum leak which was compensated for by increasing the idle richness" are you saying that the stock carb base won't work? I ask because I've done the same thing and there is always a gassy smell from it idling too rich. I noticed today (after reading your post) that below the carb towards the front had buildup and was damp. It was gas, I think. Anyhow, did you replace the base? All I did was take the carb off and make sure there were no obstructions or uneveness so that gas can get out or air in around the base.

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Actually, I plugged that connection at the base of the carb and re-tuned the idle richness - it has never idled so smoothly - even the wife noticed!

I plan to run the EVAP hose to the air cleaner after I install a nipple on it. If you look at c.d.'s diagram, the EVAP hose should connect to that little fitting on the valve breather line inlet to the air cleaner; however, I modified my air cleaner for the Weber and eliminated that fitting. Now I'll add one back.

I'm thinking that the only vacuum line to the manifold side of the carb should be the distributor advance, or maybe the fuel return line vacuum control.

I'm curious about the gasoline wetness you see. It could indicate a problem with the EVAP system - clogged charcoal canister? Maybe others will know.

1976 2002 Inka

2008 M5 Sapphire Black Metallic, 6-speed

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Thanks for your response. I neglected to mention that all the smog stuff has been removed from the car. The only vacuum line is to the distributor. I thought you were saying the carb gasket (base) was the stock one and wasn't working. It just sounded a bit like what I am going through, but I think I may have fixed mine by cleaning and retightening. We'll see.

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