Hand Brake Roller Bearings

[eurotrash]

I ordered this kit several months ago and just went for it today when I had a few extra minutes.. Its a rather amazing difference. The lever in my car had about 3 inches of side to side play, partially because the passenger side lock on the pivot pin kept falling off.

So, I lost my instruction sheet (if there was one) and I had to figure it out the hard way, so here are a few helpful things you should know before you do this.

0. (afterthought) Work from the back seat with the fronts folded forward.

1. When you get the stock pivot out (holding the release button in will let it come out easier) , the ratchet mechanism will fall out of place. There is a notch on the bottom that slips over the body of the car at the front. You'll need to get that back in place in the end. And also, there is a semi-circle notch on the opposite end that the new bolt must pass through for it all to go back together. You can kinda see the tip of it in the pic, looking into the tail there..

2. Pull the entire arm up and out. From the bottom side, stuff a small piece of styrofoam into the hand brake arm body to hold the little release lever in the proper position.

3. On the hand brake arm, there are flares around the holes on either side that you can assemble the bearing assemblies on/around. These will hold things steady for the next move. When you get the new bearings in place slip the hand brake into the body of the car, centered on the holes for mounting. Start the bolt on one side to hold things in place, and reuse the old pin to hold the other side. Now relax for a second.. stretch your back.. check emails, text your buddy.. whatever it is you do.

4. Using a screw driver through the tail end of the arm, find the semi-circle notch in the ratchet mechanism and work the tip of the new bolt into this notch hold the rachet in place. Gently use the brake release button to help if needed.

5. OK, get ready, because this is the part that happens fast.. With your left hand, find the release button on the hand brake. With your right, get positioned to push on the head of the new bolt. Now, while maintianing light pressure on the bolt, press the release button allowing the ratchet mechanism to move forward out of the way, quickly force the bolt through popping the old pin out the other side and BAM! -Just that fast its over.

The rest is simple, tighten till snug and reset your brake cables. This is a great upgrade...

[BillWilliams]

These are the dimensions of the parts in the Paul Cain kit above

2 - Thrust washers 17mm ID 30mm OD

4 - Shim washers 15mm ID 22/23mm OD - 1mm thick

2 - Regular flat washers - 13 mm ID 22/23 OD

1 - Bolt 40mm long 12mm diameter

1 - lock nut to fit bolt

Part numbers from McMaster - Carr courtesy of ToddW

McMaster-Carr Part Numbers for the bearing parts are:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5909k74/=4vonc2

2) Thrust washer (Needle bearing) 5909K14

4) Washer 1mm thick 5909K74

Another thought for parts from CALW

NOTE: According to Paul Cain who put the kit above, the larger thrust bearing and washer shown above let them slip of the ridge around the hole in the e-brake handle.

McMaster Carr has the following parts that should work fine.

Thrust Washer (has the little roller bearings):INA-505 $2.45 ea x 2

Needle Roller Washer(hardened washers to match above):INA-565 $0.82 ea x 4

(a grand total of $ 8.18 for the bearing parts)

these are shown @ http://www.reidsupply.com/GrpResults.aspx?pg=20&pid=10021900&aitm=INA-545&apid=10021900

Note: The above parts are not metric parts, but are actually a little closer to the diameter of the bolt. (SEE MY NOTE ABOVE) Just don't tell the metric police... The hardened washers are probably overkill but they are the correct part to match the thrust washers

They also sell 12mm bolts, lock nuts, and matching washers, but only in large quantities. Get those locally unless you want to go in the kit business...

[shipm_8]

These are the dimensions of the parts in the Paul Cain kit above

2 - Thrust washers 17mm ID 30mm OD

4 - Shim washers 15mm ID 22/23mm OD - 1mm thick

2 - Regular flat washers - 13 mm ID 22/23 OD

1 - Bolt 40mm long 12mm diameter

1 - lock nut to fit bolt

Part numbers from McMaster - Carr courtesy of ToddW

McMaster-Carr Part Numbers for the bearing parts are:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5909k74/=4vonc2
2) Thrust washer (Needle bearing) 5909K14
4) Washer 1mm thick 5909K74


Another thought for parts from CALW

NOTE: According to Paul Cain who put the kit above, the larger thrust bearing and washer shown above let them slip of the ridge around the hole in the e-brake handle.

McMaster Carr has the following parts that should work fine.

Thrust Washer (has the little roller bearings):INA-505 $2.45 ea x 2
Needle Roller Washer(hardened washers to match above):INA-565 $0.82 ea x 4

(a grand total of $ 8.18 for the bearing parts)

these are shown @ http://www.reidsupply.com/GrpResults.aspx?pg=20&pid=10021900&aitm=INA-545&apid=10021900

Note: The above parts are not metric parts, but are actually a little closer to the diameter of the bolt. (SEE MY NOTE ABOVE) Just don't tell the metric police... The hardened washers are probably overkill but they are the correct part to match the thrust washers

They also sell 12mm bolts, lock nuts, and matching washers, but only in large quantities. Get those locally unless you want to go in the kit business...

Bill,

May I introduce a tweak to the list above: Instead of a 12mm diameter bolt, an M14x45 screw/bolt may provide a fit closer to the original 14mm diameter pin that it would replace (#3 on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2583&mospid=47141&btnr=34_0819&hg=34&fg=30). The extra 5mm in length makes it so the nyloc nut has more to grab on, especially if you add the two extra flat washers, although 40mm is sufficient without the extra washers. 


William
 

Removal of handbrake lever.pdf

Edited October 13, 2014 by shipm_8

[duckdudess]

I saw this with some interest, but have a question: my lever, after years of use, is nearly against the driver's seat, versus in the middle as originally designed. The reason is that the pivot has worn an eccentric hole in the sheet metal "ears" that hold the lever. It would seem that even if I install this kit, the new 14mm bolt will have the same problem with the worn hole as the original pivot. True or false ?

[shipm_8]

n/t

Edited July 29, 2013 by shipm_8