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Gas gauge pegged on empty


hasbeen

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Check the connections at the back on the tank itself. If one of those came loose and isn't touching the sending unit anymore, this would happen.

Similarly, if the wire is broken somewhere, you'd get no signal. Pull the gauge pod and check continuity from the wire in the dash to the one in the sending unit.

Thats the analog stuff. Outside of that, either a bum gauge or a bum sender.

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1.Clean up the contacts of the two wires at the gas tank sending unit.

2. Clean the ground connection of the brown wire at the back of the trunk.

Test the sender/gauge:

Disconnect both wires from the sender then with the ignition in the "on" position, momentarily touch the brown/yellow wire to the brown wire. If the gauge jumps to full, the sender is bad (broken resistance wire) if nothing happens, the gauge is bad or no continuity between gauge and sender.

Beyond this, you will need a meter.

Fritz Bimmer

72 Golf

73 Chamonix

66 P car

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My sender stopped working because the outer aluminum sleeve came loose from the rest of the sender. It kept the internal float from moving with the fuel level in the tank. It was pretty easy to fix. I just refastened the tabs that hold the sleeve in place. Might be worth pulling the sender before you spend the cash. If it can't be fixed you will need to pull it anyhow and it only takes a few minutes to twist out.

The large print giveth and the small print taketh away.

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New ones cost a small fortune, $150-$200. Look on fleabay or ask on the FAQ for one. Remember, early cars use a shorter(approx. 8") sender and '74-'76 a longer unit (8.75") and are obviously not interchangeable.

Simple to remove, twist out.

remove alum. sleeve by prying off screen and remove small nut (5.5mm).

Chances are wire is broken. It can be repaired by re-soldering or patching in a small section of copper wire.

Take it apart and look. Nothing to loose.

Fritz Bimmer

72 Golf

73 Chamonix

66 P car

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