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i need some electrical help....please


esty

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some may recall a week or so ago i had issues with melting ignition wires from the coil to the key switch on my 69...i found the problem...it was a terminal on a dash switch that was touching & ground to the frame behind the dash....anyway long story short...i replaced the wires and all was good again...

a few days ago, i decided to fasten the coil, ballast resister and a relay back to the inner fender/firewall...now no spark...

i did remove a couple of wires to untwist, untangle & tape them but i tried to be very careful and only removed one wire at a time, replacing it before removing another...

obviously something is a muck...i spent most of the afternoon in total frustration trying to figure out what i might have done...

can someone draw me a simple picture of how to wire from the key switch to the coil, etc to get the thing running again

i've got several wiring diagrams, including the blue shop books but none are like my 69 or i'm stupid

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This happened to me on my first 69 a few years ago. I ended up on my back in the driver's side pan with a test light and rewired the coil to a known hot terminal. Wish I could tell you more but electrics are my week point.

Good luck!

19a115b7-9760-47c1-af9f-560c2d06e095_zps6ad53ab7.jpg

73 M2 evolving project

77 Datsun 620 king cab hauler

09 XR1200

77 XS650

78 SR500

half dozen ct70s

other wheeled madness

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Sorry you're still having problems.

Here are 3 diagrams that might help.

One is a electrical wiring diagram showing mostly the ignition components and a few more items (fuse box) to give you the wiring to the ignition switch. in this diagram the yellow wires feed the coil, but if a PO made changes, this might not be correct.

The 2nd diagram shows the coil and distributor wiring and wire colors.

the 3rd shows the resistor detail. this should allow you to verify your present wiring colors and connections, and rewire if necessary. I suspect a loose wire back at the ignition switch. I hope this gives enough detail for you to troubleshoot.

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Dave in Baltim02e Maryland USA
1969 2002 Sahara  Manila  :)

1966 WM300 Dodge Power Wagon-Valley Green; 1972 Airstream Overlander; 1997 JDM Honda Prelude; 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 tow vehicle to tow home all the above junk!

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Don't forget the obvious, fuse for ignition. Also use a DVM set to DC volts & check for 12V at + terminal of the coil with ignition switched on. If 12V is not there, check all fuses on both sides of each fuse at the fuse clip for 12V with the meter. Sometimes a fuse that looks OK, has small spot burned open or else the contacts are corroded or not making good connection on one end.

That one diagram below shows fuse 5 supplies 12V for ignition switch to coil.

If you have 12V at + of coil, it's gotta be points or pertronix wiring.

2002 owner since 1980

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I can draw a simple wiring diagram with words:

1. Red wire from battery plus to ignition switch terminal 30.

2. Green wire from ignition switch terminal 15 to ballast resistor.

3. Wire from other end of ballast resistor to coil terminal 15 (or +).

4. Black wire from coil terminal 1 (or -) to side of distributor.

If you have those four, the ignition should work. This assumes everything worked earlier, and you made no changes other than dressing wiring. There are other wires and devices that are important, but start with the four above.

To troubleshoot those connections, connect the black lead of a voltmeter to the engine block. Turn the key to run. Touch the red lead to each of the points listed above, starting at the battery. You should see 12 volts at each one until you get to coil terminal 1; it will be about 12 volts or about 0 volts.

Do you have a PerTronix or other electronic ignition component? Is your coil black, blue, or red? Did the ignition work when the various parts were not attached to the firewall? Do you know which wire was touching ground behind the dash? Do other electrical devices that get power through the ignition switch still work (turn signals, reverse lights, heater fan, wipers, etc)? Are the battery cables healthy and attached?

Curt Ingraham

1972 2002tii, 1976 2002

Improved 2002 Radiators

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I can draw a simple wiring diagram with words:

1. Red wire from battery plus to ignition switch terminal 30.

2. Green wire from ignition switch terminal 15 to ballast resistor.

3. Wire from other end of ballast resistor to coil terminal 15 (or +).

4. Black wire from coil terminal 1 (or -) to side of distributor.

If you have those four, the ignition should work. This assumes everything worked earlier, and you made no changes other than dressing wiring. There are other wires and devices that are important, but start with the four above.

To troubleshoot those connections, connect the black lead of a voltmeter to the engine block. Turn the key to run. Touch the red lead to each of the points listed above, starting at the battery. You should see 12 volts at each one until you get to coil terminal 1; it will be about 12 volts or about 0 volts.

Do you have a PerTronix or other electronic ignition component? Is your coil black, blue, or red? Did the ignition work when the various parts were not attached to the firewall? Do you know which wire was touching ground behind the dash? Do other electrical devices that get power through the ignition switch still work (turn signals, reverse lights, heater fan, wipers, etc)? Are the battery cables healthy and attached?

it's the original ignition with points and a black coil...i believe it was the wiper speed switch that caused the problem...but i'm not certain...it was the bottom dash switch on the right...i'd have to go out and look at the car to say for sure...

i started it and pulled it out of the garage into the driveway just before i started working on it so it was getting spark before i strap'd the coil, resister and relay back on the fender and firewall...yesterday i was putting it away and discovered i may have caused a problem or it coincidently took a crap on me

the wire that melted was the green wire from the coil to the ignition switch...i replaced that last week and everything was good

the word picture you provided is simply enough...i'll take a look tomorrow and make sure i don't have a wire crossed and check my power at the coil, etc, as suggested by Dan

thanks guys

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it's running...sometimes you just don't think about checking the obvious things 1st...

there was a wire...i think it's green/brown disconnected from the starter switch...

i don't know how it came off...i'm sure something i did...i connected it, turn'd the key and 69 is purring

thanks guys...i did get some good info that may help me sort out the starting problems with my 72...i borrowed the coil a year or so ago and when i replaced it, i'm not sure even if it was the same coil but when cranking it the dist starts sending up smoke signals from the points

thanks a bunch

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