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Nonmatching M10 Engine: Rebuild or Replace? (nt)


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My other '02, a '72 Tii has a tired engine and will need refreshing, etc. in the future. The car also spewed out a bunch of oil recently, which makes me think the end is near. This may be a bit overkill, but is their any advantage to replacing its nonmatching engine with a totally rebuilt one?

Cheers!

John B. Ellis

1973 Inka 2002 (b. February 7th, 1973)

Weber 40 DCOE

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Rebuilding the entire engine would be the cheapest solution.

The only other reasonable option I see would be to get a nice engine off of this site, and those only come around about once every 6 months. But even then, you would have to have it checked out.

If you do end up rebuilding it, I can recommend Eric at Peak performance in Longmont, he does quality work, tell him Christian Moss sent you.

And if you dont mind, would you email me with your jetting setup/ choke size for your webers?

mossyboy6@gmail.com

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short term cheap = buy used

cons = all unknowns = actual mileage, type of usage, periods left unmaintained, etc. = unexpected nickle and dime repairs and eventual failure

long term cheap = complete rebuild to 2L (or +) comp specs. (10:1 - 292 - side drafts - headers - 5sp etc

if you need to keep the car at "stock specs" then find a matching motor in good or "new" condition. (might = more costly up-front [or trade for time waiting for correct motor] but returned via over-all greater RESTORED car value)

versus

slightly lower value daily driver w/known good quality drive train + streetable performance mods.

trade work for cash or cash for work. your choice.

Jack be nimble - Jack be quick

If Jack isn't, he's gonna get his ass burned!

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If you are interested in building a replacement engine and dropping it in, I have a 79 E21 engine pulled and apart for inspection and cleaning. Clock on the car it came from had 115k mil on it when the engine was pulled. There is no evidence that the engine had any problems and cylinders are in very good shape meaning it had not been run to death.

You would need an 02 camshaft, oil pump, pan, crankshaft pully and water pump to use in an 02. Rebuild the head and lower end. The crank mic'd out per spec, so should not need work.

I also have a set of +0.5mm piano tops with rods that are in very good shape. The rods and std fit flat top pistons that were in the engine are there, but more than likely one would not use the pistions unless you were doing an economy build. The ring land clearance would need to be verified before using. Loose rings == broken rings later.

If interested, shift over to the Rocky Mountain 02ers board and leave message. http://www.rmbmw2002.com/

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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When I built a new engine, I got a good used block and then started to buy parts to rebuild it. new E-21 head, valve train parts, cam, pistons, pumps, chains, gears, etc. Then I found a good BMW shop & dropped the whole pile there. They sent the block & crank out to be prepped & then set out to build up the engine. When they had it close I just brought my car in & they switched. I paid just over $5000. That included all my parts, a new 008 distributor, new clutch, small parts, gaskets, seals, bearings, and all labor. All in all well worth it.

75 2002: weber, ANSA, lowered, 14" wheels, new engine, new suspension, rust free & square.

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