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Posted
Me will use el cheapo headliner left overs from Hancock Fabrics and stitch it using my sewing machine...

Hmm, mom quilts. Is it, marine vinyl?

Anyways-- thanks for taking a minute to post, all. I'll let ya know how it

goes.

now-- just gotta remove the tint while it's out.

“My fan mail is enormous. Everyone is under six.” —Alexander Calder

Ben — ('74 rebuild in primer)

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Posted
Me will use el cheapo headliner left overs from Hancock Fabrics and stitch it using my sewing machine...

Hmm, mom quilts.

what material is it, marine vinyl?

they have all kinds of upholstery stuff, I am sure I 'll find something a close match. I have seen a DIY post here at FAQ, it is not that difficult to stitch. Putting it in is a different story.

Posted

When I had a leaking rear window, I used a razor to carefully cut the entire outside of the old seal off, then from the inside with someone holding the window from the outside, I pushed out the window with even pressure on the right and left till it popped out. Then I removed all the residue, cleaned, wire brushed & sanded the edges. Then I taped and painted it with rust proof paint. I got a new gasket, strip, & clip and called a local glass guy to come to my house and reinstall it for $60. parts & labor less than $175. I assume the same goes for the front. did not attemept any headliner change.

75 2002: weber, ANSA, lowered, 14" wheels, new engine, new suspension, rust free & square.

Posted

Any experienced and competent glass installer can get 2002 glass out and in without cracking it. DIYers can too, just be careful. Way, way easier than glued-in windows like in my VW Jetta. Esty's right, any shop who is worried about cracking it either isn't competent, wants to sell you glass, or both.

Make sure you get a BMW OEM gasket, not an aftermarket. Some of the aftermarket gaskets look close, but are a cast-iron beeotch to install, and won't look right when you're done. I've tried both, and original is the only way to go.

Also, there are some slight differences in gaskets depending on year.

If you want to do the headliner, definitely do it while the glass is out. Doing the headliner is tricky, because it is difficult to pull all the wrinkles out unless you start from the middle of the window (front and rear) and work your way out to both sides. Don't make the mistake of trimming the headliner until it is completely installed, or you may end up without enough material and have to buy another.

Good luck!

-Karl

'73 '02 

Posted

actually removing and installing the windshield is pretty easy...it's that darn'd locking strip that's a challenge...

the key to success is getting the proper grimace...

1zr146c.jpg

seriously, if steve & i can do it, most should be able to...

Posted
I have seen a DIY post here at FAQ, it is not that difficult to stitch. Putting it in is a different story.

I'm with ya,- not thinkin' of installing myself. Blunt's got a good price on oem, but custom would be better. Or, should be.

I'll look for DIY instructions.

“My fan mail is enormous. Everyone is under six.” —Alexander Calder

Ben — ('74 rebuild in primer)

Posted

I think one must grimace and scrunch/contort your face many times while R&R'ing a windshield. Make sure someone takes your picture during all the weird facial expressions so we can all enjoy them later on.

Photobucket

Photobucket

My endeavor with replacing the front gasket had me buying (2) seals and (1) new BMW windshield. Luckily, I had the local NCC 2002 experts on-hand both here at my house and in MD during our escapades. I can report that I have a leak-free front glass and operating wipers after two trips with lots of rain.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

Royal Red 69 VW Squareback built 8/13/68 “Patty”

Posted

the key to success is getting the proper grimace...

1zr146c.jpg.

Crack me up!

OK-- you inspire my grimace esty, but I'm not going to try the install on my own. The gf is lovely, but not up for the challenge.

“My fan mail is enormous. Everyone is under six.” —Alexander Calder

Ben — ('74 rebuild in primer)

Posted
Some of the aftermarket gaskets look close, but are a cast-iron beeotch to install...

love the straight dope, Karl.

thumbs-up!

“My fan mail is enormous. Everyone is under six.” —Alexander Calder

Ben — ('74 rebuild in primer)

Posted
I got a new gasket, strip & clip and called a local glass guy to come to my house and reinstall it for $60.

$60? that's a solid deal.

I see discoloration under the seals. So, I may need work there too. I haven't found rust elsewhere, but it's gotta be somewhere, in hiding, awaiting ambush.

I appreciate the advice, Mike.

“My fan mail is enormous. Everyone is under six.” —Alexander Calder

Ben — ('74 rebuild in primer)

Posted
Make sure someone takes your picture during all the weird facial expressions so we can all enjoy them later on.

Thanks for the tips & pics. I'll be back to share some-- and I'm sure I'll look appropriately ridiculous.

“My fan mail is enormous. Everyone is under six.” —Alexander Calder

Ben — ('74 rebuild in primer)

Posted
actually removing and installing the windshield is pretty easy...it's that darn'd locking strip that's a challenge...

You could follow the factory and the departed Duke Rimmer's advice and put the strip in the seal before the windshield is in the car. Has worked for me since Duke pointed it out.

Posted

Interesting:

so-- lockstrip into seal; seal/lockstrip onto frame; glass into frame?

“My fan mail is enormous. Everyone is under six.” —Alexander Calder

Ben — ('74 rebuild in primer)

Posted

We tried that for the 2nd seal installation (new glass) and it didn't work out. We went back to installing the seal on the glass, then worked both into the opening and finally added the lock strip.

Make sure your seal comes in a plastic bag with a label that has a BMW Roundel and words like "1 Stuck / piece" with the part number. Beware of generic white labels with just a part number.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

Royal Red 69 VW Squareback built 8/13/68 “Patty”

Posted

Right-on, Jim. I'm glad you posted that note here.

Yesterday I asked Blunt whether the new seal that arrived with my car was front or rear. It looks quite official, with it's BMW part# so prominently displayed. Alas, it was from a company called "URO", not an OEM, and thus will not be used on my ride.

It may be a fine seal, - but getting a new OE seal for around $100 is cheap peace of mind, right?

Ben

“My fan mail is enormous. Everyone is under six.” —Alexander Calder

Ben — ('74 rebuild in primer)

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