Odometer Repair

[Scott Sislane]

Thanks to the FAQ thread, I was able to get my odometer repaired last night, as it stopped turning like they all must eventually do.

I thought these pics would make it more helpful, if you have to do yours.

Of course, the pictures loaded in rev order. (!)

Scott

post note: As mentioned below, make sure the temporary pin (nail) is long enough to protrude out the opposite side so it holds the number wheels in place properly. I use a 2" finishing nail, absolutely perfect length.

Edited October 3, 2013 by sislane

[autoaloha]

and how do you know if there's more than 99,999 miles?

[Scott Sislane]

and how do you know if there's more than 99,999 miles?

the #'s stay in place, you do not turn the #'s, so you start where it left off.

there's no "reset", just analog wheels w/ printed #'s.

no way of knowing if they have been turned back or fwd...

Scott

[autoaloha]

and how do you know if there's more than 99,999 miles?

the #'s stay in place, you do not turn the #'s, so you start where it left off.

Scott

what does that mean? would it read 99,999 forever, (this would be the 'numbers staying in place', or does it 'start where you left off', i.e. the next mile would read 0, and then 1 etc... ?

and what does 'you do not turn the numbers' mean? I'm sorry, I just have no idea how those statements mesh...

[Hammer03]

The odometer reads exactly like it does when you took the pin out. Once the dial reads 99,999, the next mile you put on it goes back to 00,000, and starts over again.

[ingraham]

... you can't know just by looking at the odometer. There is no way to know without knowing the history of the car.

[BDB]

old post, i know but just wanted to let other FAQ'ers know that this works. I had to use a punch to get the geared pin out and tapped all around with a hammer and chisel, but it worked like a charm. two thumbs up, thanks gents.

[SteveK535]

I just did it last night myself, works great! I do have a word of advice though. I chose a nail size as a temp replacement that was just a "tad" longer than the span it needed to pass thought. I dulled the end of the nail, but when I did I made it a "tad" shorter than the span I needed. As a result the nail didn't quite make it to the other side. It was well within the last number wheel, though. Because it didn't go through all the way any motion laterally disengages the positioning gears (the grey ones you see in the pictures above) from the number gears and the numbers can shift a bit resulting in them being off center on display when you replace the original shaft. Be careful if you do this to make sure the temporary shaft passes all the way through, this will maintain the original position of the numbers. I was able to coax them back into place, but I spent 2 hours correcting this simple mistake to get it to read correctly. Learn from my mistake if you are going to do this very effective and otherwise easy repair. Also, you really do't need to make much of a punch in the shaft. I was surprised at how sensitive it is to these divots and had to sand them down a bit. But hey, now I'm rolling with the odometer working, awesome!

[PowerJoe457]

I

 

I just did it last night myself, works great! I do have a word of advice though. I chose a nail size as a temp replacement that was just a "tad" longer than the span it needed to pass thought. I dulled the end of the nail, but when I did I made it a "tad" shorter than the span I needed. As a result the nail didn't quite make it to the other side. It was well within the last number wheel, though. Because it didn't go through all the way any motion laterally disengages the positioning gears (the grey ones you see in the pictures above) from the number gears and the numbers can shift a bit resulting in them being off center on display when you replace the original shaft. Be careful if you do this to make sure the temporary shaft passes all the way through, this will maintain the original position of the numbers. I was able to coax them back into place, but I spent 2 hours correcting this simple mistake to get it to read correctly. Learn from my mistake if you are going to do this very effective and otherwise easy repair. Also, you really do't need to make much of a punch in the shaft. I was surprised at how sensitive it is to these divots and had to sand them down a bit. But hey, now I'm rolling with the odometer working, awesome!

 

I just did this today as well. though unlike you guys I just ended up taking the whole thing apart until I realized the problem was that lead gear. 

 

I find that slightly clamping the shiny part of the shaft with a vice works better then punching it.

[deschodt]

On 8/22/2014 at 1:25 PM, PowerJoe457 said:

 

 

I find that slightly clamping the shiny part of the shaft with a vice works better then punching it.

Great tip thank you !!!