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PabloM

"The Butterstick" build (Turbo MS EDIS Stroker)

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Well I've decided to start a build thread. Before I go into specifics I want to say that I'm going a very similar route as Cody(ThisistheRanger) who also has a project blog on here. He and some e21 guys have been helping me a lot in deciding which route to take and how to go about it. Most of the stuff will probably be a duplicate of what Cody has said but I guess twice is better than once in this case. I'll be keeping a parts list along with the prices so others planning something like this can get an idea of what it takes. It's going to take a while but I'm excited.

What I have so far:

This weekend was half off day at Pick-Your-Part so my friend and I collected most of parts needed to the fuel injection and the actual turbo. Here's what we got:

Photobucket

From the yard(half off prices):

e30 318i alternator with block mount bracket $22

e30 318i intake manifold $22

e30 318i waterneck $7

e30 318i fuel rail $7

e30 318i coolant bypass tube $5

M30 Throttle body with throttle positioning sensor(TPS) which came off an e23 735i Automatic $25

Garrett T3 turbo (Compressor A/R: .42, Comp. wheel inducer: 42mm exducer: 60mm, Turbine A/R: .48, Turbine wheel dia.: 48mm) off a 1986 Volvo 760 rated to flow enough for 250hp $63

New:

Boost-Brother's manifold $70 (Yes I know, what a deal! Got it directly from Boost-Brothers off eBay. $33 of that amount was shipping too!)

Some stuff I still need:

MS components board, sensors, etc (DIY Autotune $400)

42# Injectors (Bosch Greentops, eBay $140)

Intercooler with piping (Just-Intercoolers, eBay $150)

Blow off valve (eBay, $50)

EDIS with 36-1 Trigger wheel and sensor (junk-yard $not much)

Misc. stuff like sensors and brackets for throttle body, edis sensor ($??)

Electronic fuel pump $??

Electric fan $??

And most importantly the block.

This is where I am not sure what to do yet. I'm thinking of getting a donor engine and rebuilding that so I can keep my car on the road as long as possible. A problem here is the cost, from my estimations I've calculated $200 for the block + $350 for a basic rebuild(gaskets, seals, bearings) + $650 forged pistons + ~$350 machining(Total of about $1550). This is quite pricey so I've been looking for a stock rebuilt engine with flat tops which I could just use however I have had no real luck finding one. If both these fail, the last option is pulling my current engine and using that. This is basically going to cost the same as getting a donor engine and the car is going to be non-op for the duration of the rebuild. The only upside is I know what I have and don't run the risk of getting a block with major problems(i.e. deep grooves in the cylinder walls).

If you have anything I need let me know!

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Why not find a stock long block in known good condition, pull the pistons and have them machined flat. That would save you the cost of the pistons at least and possibly lower your machining costs as well. You could either rebuild the head or switch over the head you have on the car now.

Sounds like a fun project- keep us up-dated for sure.

Pete

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Hi looks like this is going to be an interesting blog and one am going to watch as i would love to do an m10 turbo sometime . any chance that you could give some more details as to why the parts you are going to use were chosen.

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Hi looks like this is going to be an interesting blog and one am going to watch as i would love to do an m10 turbo sometime . any chance that you could give some more details as to why the parts you are going to use were chosen.

My original plan was to build an N/A monster but with the budget I'm on that soon became a problem. After driving with Cody a couple times I decided to go turbo and I think it's going to be well worth it. As for the parts, all the stuff from the 318i is necessary for fuel injection. While turboing a carbureted car is possible, it is very difficult and for the price of good carbs, not worth it for me. The manifold, fuel rail are pretty self explanatory. The water neck is needed because I don't think the original one clears the new manifold. The alternator is needed because the stock one is only rated at I think 45A. While idling it can't even keep my blinker going for more than 2 minutes so it definitely has to be replaced if it is going to run an electronic fuel pump and all the MS stuff.

With the throttle body there are some options. The stock m10 one is no where big enough so it won't work. The main contenders are the m20 one, which 02again makes brackets for. This is what Cody is using. The one I have is off an m30. The difference is that the m30 is even bigger and most of the automatic cars have a TB with a TPS sensor. Cody is also changing to an m30 with TPS for this reason. There is no throttle response without TPS. I'm not sure if the m20 even had the option of a TPS.

The turbo is also an area where there are some options. I visited the junk yard several times before this weekend to find all the parts and hide them in time for half off day. Since I bought the boost brother's manifold I needed a T3 turbo(T3 refers to the type of flange and a good estimate of the size of the turbo). There are several differences in turbos but in order of importance they are: Type(T3, T3/T4, T4, etc) size(compressor size, A/R, turbine size) watercooled (yes/no) and the wastegate type. I took out a turbo from a 1990 Volvo 760 and it turns out after 1990 they started using Mitsubishi TD04 turbos so that one didn't work. I also took one out of a 1985 or so Volvo that ended up being way to small so that got left behind also. The one I got was the exact same one Cody has (lol). BTW if someone wants one there is one more at the San Jose Pick-Your-Part with very minimal shaft play. If you want more info let me know. Basically it has all the desirable options. T3 flange, a good size so it spools fast and can supply up to 15psi, watercooled(this is distinguished by the 4 inlets around the bearing between the 2 turbines, 2 are for oil and 2 are for water) and it has a good internal wastegate. There is one downside to this turbo which is on the flange there is a round depression that volvo put in for some reason so it has to be filled to be flush with the boost brothers manifold.

With the exhaust manifold there are also some options. I happened to find a bunch of Boost-Brothers manifolds on eBay selling for very cheap so that is how my entire project got started. Even though there was some confusion about their add and the cost of shipping and the company was not very pleasant to deal with(I won't go into details but if you really want to know email me about it) for $70 total it was still a steal. Another option is to get the cast manifolds. Century used these on their e21 turbo kits and I think they were made by BAE. The last option if custom making one is left out is to flip a stock exhaust manifold upside down and make a flange to use the turbo. Mitch made this work(see http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,295968/) Cody also attempted this but from what he told me the turbo sits too high and the hood would not close properly.

If you have more questions, post up. I also found some leads on an engine and will be checking them out later this week.

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Perfect, I was planning on starting this exact project this summer. Probably will hold off on the turbo until I can find another block, mine's been machined too much. Even with an extra thick SS headgasket compression is around 9.5:1.

I've seen some pics of the boost brothers manifold in cars before, looks like the turbo is placed very close to the fender wall. Post some pics once you test fit it.

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I'm doing practically the same thing, although I'm further along in the process.

You can check my project blog here

I test fit the engine a couple weeks ago and the turbo position is great. I had to cut a hole for the air filter, which was expected, but there is plenty of room between the turbo and fender for engine movement. I didn't take pics, but i'll have the engine in soon and take pics then.

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what you are doing is great idea, I could use all the help i can get working my car (info wise)

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You can also use a throttle body from, iirc, an '89 325 w/ automatic transmission. This used a variable TPS and is what I'm using as well on my MS'd car.

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Update: took a day trip today from the bay area to LA to get my block. 14 hour turn around $90 in gas and a bit more in food. Still cheaper than shipping and I had my buddy to talk to. Anyway on to the details. I got it off a thread here on the FAQ. 89mm forged JE pistons 8.5:1, s14 crank, very clean block and cylinders, hot tanked and checked e12 head with 2 sets of valve trains. Cost $900. Only thing he did not have was the s14 rods so I'm currently looking for a set of those. I'll update as soon as possible with pictures. Next up rods as mentioned and all the rebuild components then put it together.

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I will be watching your thread closely cause this is almost exactly the way I want to build my turbo motor next winter. Great score on the block by the way.

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This is where i will be placing my turbo but i will have to cut the front pannel

JE pistons and a s14 crank , sounds good to me . how much bhp and lb ft are you after

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JE pistons and a s14 crank , sounds good to me . how much bhp and lb ft are you after

My turbo and injectors will max out at just around 250 hp so I want to get somewhere close to that. When I get bored of that I'll try to find a gt28rs turbo and some serious injectors and see what's what, but that's a ways down the road.

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I'm doing practically the same thing, although I'm further along in the process.

You can check my project blog here

I test fit the engine a couple weeks ago and the turbo position is great. I had to cut a hole for the air filter, which was expected, but there is plenty of room between the turbo and fender for engine movement. I didn't take pics, but i'll have the engine in soon and take pics then.

nice

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