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Brake Pedal return

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My brake pedal is not returning back fast enough and it leaves the brake lights on.

When the pedal is depressed and starts its return, the pedal pauses (sticks) and then continues forward. I had someone follow me and radio back to me what they saw as I drove. The brake lights stayed on after I used the brakes then would go off or I would pull the brake pedal with my foot.

I first noticed the issue after I had the emergency brake adjusted.

I lubed everthing in the pedal box and anything I could reach in the engine bay. I ran it without carpet or pedal box cover. At first it looked like the lube worked, but its still sticking.

What do y'all think. Is this as simple as replacing the return spring (ordered already) or a more serious problem that I am not aware of?

Happy Memorial Day,

Ozzy

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night because rough men are willing to do violence on their behalf." (George Orwell)

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A thought: In the engine compartment, check the tightness of the through-bolt (and associated nut) which attaches the brake booster bracket to the vertical section of the pedal box. That hardware also serves as a pivot for the brake linkage . . . if 'too tight' I believe you'd encounter the sticky brake pedal as you describe. (note: the nut should be a locking type, so that it doesn't loosen on its own)

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-= DANGER!!! =-

DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR UNTILL YOU HAVE

A FREE MOVING BRAKE PEDAL

as mentioned above - inspect the pedal linkage

up at the booster, and look at the adjustment

of the brake light switch - same place

you risk unintended brake lock up

while driving, or worse - a brake failure due

to overheating the system from brake drag.

return to the adjustment of the rear brakes

if that was what caused a change to the pedal

free movement - retrace any brake repairs,

or non-repairs before this condition

you may have rusted pedal linkage

you may have collaped rubber brake fluid hoses

you do not need to drive the car

with a trailer to diagnose this problem

02pedalbrakegas.jpg

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Well, if you don't have a return spring now,

then yes, one will fix your problem!

It's not a scientific spring- you can get a relatively

stout one from the hardware store and that'll do it.

If it doesn't, then it's time to disassemble and add grease.

CD's picture shows where. Usually the pedal pivot itself's the worst culprit,

especially on a car that's been sitting.

And yes, if the pedal doesn't come all the way back, then

the system can't top itself off from the reservoir.

And that's baaaaaaad.

t

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I've had a similar problem before and I did everything posted above including replacing my Tii calipers and it did not solve the problem. What I ended up discovering is that #8 and #13 from the diagram below was not moving freely thus causing the pedal not returning. It took a long frustrating trial and errors for me. Make sure to check it as well. Hope it helps and good luck.

Edit: looks like KBM02 just explained it.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2583&mospid=47141&btnr=35_0195&hg=35&fg=05

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Guest Anonymous

My brake pedal returns to the top about 50% of the time. I'm using advice from the forum archives to (hopefully) resolve this issue. You suggested that this problem could cause brake lock-up. I had just the opposite happen to me last week. Tooling along at about 40 mph, I applied my brakes to make a turn and they went to the floor. I pumped them back up and drove home slowly and they've worked ever since (ALBEIT JUST UP AND DOWN MY FLAT STREET FOR TESTING PURPOSES.) I'm going to change the brake fluid (Motive Power Bleeder on order), lubricate the pivot points, check the vacuum line, check valve, and the booster. If you have any other suggestions, let them rip (no fluid leaks on the floor, nor sponginess, nor smoke...)

If I replace the vaccum hose I'm hoping to find something generic locally...

jim

1969 1602 (PO little old lady school teacher)

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Thanks Armond for the trial and error. I was just about to go down the same path as you. Today I was able to lube some of the upper linkage that freed me from my braking dilemma. The car has sat for a few years so it took lubing every point in the diagram to free my sticking brake.   Thanks again for all the good advice.

 

 

Rob 

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I just fixed this problem in my car.  I found that the linkage transition piece directly behind the brake booster was rusted.  there is a pivot bolt there with a bushing around it.  If you look behind the behind the booster, you will see this through bolt and nut.  My car is a '76 and the wiper fluid reservoir is directly above it.  Any leakage over time will rust this bolt.  It was a pain to remove, but once cleaned up(a lot of rust on that bolt) the brake pedal practically snaps back now. 

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(edited)

bumping this just because I was driving home today and had the same issue. I haven't been in the car in two months, though the car was driven regularly by my uncle while I was away. interestingly, he never mentioned it, although it's possible he never noticed it. Brake pedal is getting stuck down and dragging, enough to notice some minor brake fade on the highway. no bueno. 

 

This is on new stainless lines, rotors, calipers, rear cylinders, pads and shoes. All adjusted properly. I noticed it before I left and left it up to brake bleeding; I bled the system again with a pressure bleeder and it seemed to eliminate the issue, although now it seems it's back. I'll post back tomorrow afternoon with pictures detailing what needs to be done as far as greasing the pivot points. I figure it may come as use to someone in the future, and it is a good reminder to all 02 owners to check. 

Edited by Rocan

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I often notice this linkage binding as well. I can't really get into the linkage without removing the entire booster from the firewall correct? that seems like a mega pain in the ass. I have sanded down the bolt a bit, and lubed it with tri-flo and some kroil. I am always on the fence with how tight to cinch that bolt. Too tight and the brake feels like garbage, too loose and I worry she'll spin off. 

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