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Can e-brake adjustment impact normal braking?

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I'm continuing to struggle with getting a firm enough initial brake pedal. I've bled the system, checked that the MC and booster aren't leaking, adjusted the rear pads, replaced the pads front and rear. However, one thing I can't get right is my e-brake adjustment due to the fact that the "dish" where the e-brake lever is attached has a crack in it and is less than perfectly stable. So basically the e-brake doesn't engage properly. Can this impact the overall adjustment/efficiency of the rear drums during driving, or are they essentially independent systems?

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How long ago did you change your pads and shoes? I've found that once the pads are bedded in, the brake pedal feels much more firm.

As for the e-brake cable adjustment, I always thought that if the shoes are adjusted for wear at the backing plate, the pedal would be optimal. However, when I adjust my e-brake handle so all I have is 3-4 clicks when the e-brake is engaged, the pedal is firmed up. At this point there is no extra drag of the shoes.

To me, yes, the e-brake adjustment would change the pedal feel.

Cris

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Thanks Cris. The pads have been in there for 8 or so months now, so I'm sure they're well broken in. I've got Ferodo's on the rear, and Metal Masters on the front. The pedal travel isn't too bad, it just doesn't feel very powerful and my gut tells me I'm just missing something in terms of the set up or adjustment.

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What's the optimal heat range on the Ferodo shoes?

Cris

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Cris. I don't honestly know the heat range of the Ferodo's, they are the pads that Ireland recommended for street use and occasional driving schools. I've driven JohnC's car with an identical brake set-up front and rear, yet his pedal had so much more power than mine, I just can't figure out what I'm missing.

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Did you use the same master cylinder too?

Cris

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The only other thing might just be the difference in pushrod adjustment(pedal to booster) or the booster itself. Could also be a diffrence in the check valve.

Cris

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Are you talking about the adjuster that is basically inside the mounting bracket of the booster or the one inside the pedal box? If the former, I adjusted it to take some of the initial travel out of the pedal but it didn't help with pedal "feel." Which is the check valve you're referring to?

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The adjust ment I was talking about was the one in the bracket.

The check valve is in line with the vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the brake booster.

Cris

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Got it, thanks Cris. So if the valve isn't working properly, I wouldn't get sufficient boost? Any idea how to test if it's functioning properly other than just replacing it? If I can get my hands on a bleeder I might just try to give the whole system a once-over on Monday and see if I can put this to rest. Thanks again.

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They really 'should' be truly unrelated...

except that the e- brake can hold the shoes out even when the

hold- out studs aren't holding the shoes out. So if, for example, you

tightened the handbrake cables and the pedal's initial bite- point came up,

that would mean that the hold- out studs hadn't been adjusted out

far enough... or that the parking brake's too tight and causing the

shoes to come too far out.

As to pedal feel- Cris is right, the adjustment point of the MC can make

a difference, but usually it's either air in there somewhere (and it can

be hard to get a good bleed when one component's new and dry)

or a bad master.

As long as your rear shoes are adjusted right to where they should be...

fwiw, I guess...

t

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