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Weber 32/36 Idle speed screw won't touch linkage...

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I just came in from trying to figure out why the weber 32/36 (electric choke) that i just installed is idling at around 2500 rpms. I am following the best lean idle guide from redline, and when i got to the idle speed screw adjustment, i realized that even when the screw was bottomed out, it does not touch the linkage.

Before everyone jumps on me, I am waiting for my haynes weber manual to come in the mail and have searched the archives... but i am very new at working with cars, but trying hard to learn without bugging everyone for answers :).

Other Info: It does not seem that the accelerator pedal linkage, has anything to do with this, i disconnected this linkage with the same results. Engine is completely stock and timing has recently been set correctly by a mechanic who knows what they are doing (obviously not me) and the car was running fine when the stock solex was on earlier today (with the exception of cold start issues).

Thanks in advance for your replies!

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Guest Anonymous

a pic would be helpful.

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Trace the choke linkage- it can pull the idle up if it thinks it's

cold- or is seriously misadjusted...

hth,

t

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perhaps i'm not quite understanding what you are asking, and i can't quite remember, but i think if the carb is choked, the idle speed screw will not engage, or touch the throttle arm (or whatever it's called) as the choke is set to fast idle. as it warms up and you kick the gas pedal to disengage the choke, it will reset the carb to non-choke condition, and the arm will settle against that screw. chuck

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I looked at it again this morning, and it seems that the primary barrel butterfly is not closed the whole way. When i open the choke butterflies, the secondary looks more closed than the primary butterfly at the bottom. It seems that the whole shaft should be rotated clockwise 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn, and this would seem to fix the idle screw issue as well, is there a way to adjust the whole primary shaft and rotate it closed?

Thanks for all your responses, i really appreciate it.

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It should be open a bit, as it provides idle air.

But what Chuck and I are saying is that something is not letting it close

far enough. You should be able to stall the engine by closing it.

Look at ALL the linkages on the outside of the carb,

and you'll probably find one that's the culprit. Maybe on the other end

of the shaft.

If the tang on the idle stop is touching the carb body itself,

then it's likely that the idle stop has been forced or bent.

t

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I already checked out your videos, they were informative, thank you. I plan on pulling the carb again this evening to see if i can figure it out. If anybody has some good pics of what the choke and throttle linkage should look like when installed, it would be really helpful.

Thanks!

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UPDATE: Thanks to everyone's replies, i discovered that the choke linkage was bound up and was causing the high idle. Now that it has been resolved it is running fantastic compared to the old solex that was on there previously.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to time to respond and helped me find the solution!

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