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This is my first post on the forum. I have been lapping up info for the past few months, but I am finally having trouble figuring out this wonderful world of carburation.

My '02 seemed to be running rich. The plugs were very black (but not soaked), however, the air filter on my weber and the rest of the carb was soaked with gas. I peered down into the carb and the barrell closest to the passenger side looked wet with fuel and build up while the other side looked fine. It also looks like the pump cover or pump diaphragm drips a little gas upon start up.

I used the redline instructions for finding the best lean idle. I made the mixture slightly leaner and turned the idle down a bit. The car was already warm, but just backing out that mixture screw seemed to make everything SO much better- smoother, happier.

Now, I am almost unable to start the car from a cold start. I have to turn it over and over before it finally catches and it will keep stalling until it is very warm. Also, when I turn off the ignition there are a few residual combustions.

I am stumped. How to I adjust to this warm/cold start issue? Should I try to rebuild? Do I need to re-jet as I just moved this car from the bay area to Salt Lake City (4,000ft+). This is the rebuild kit I was looking at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weber-Carburetor-Kit-32-36-mm-DGV-DGES-series-carb_W0QQitemZ260397999840QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item260397999840&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John

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Hi John,

I'm certainly not the 32/36 expert here (check out the forum searches for weber 32/36 for more info). But here's what I've learned over the past couple weeks about my 25+ year-old 32/36 DGAV. Mine was installed on a 76' CA car. . . The water choke on mine was goofy and a simple adjustment (when the car was cold) to insure that the choke was fully open on a warm car cured my "hot" starting issues. . . I know this is not your problem but it may be a variation that leads to a solution.

During the quest to determine wether to re-build and/or re-jet I was asked to stick my finger into the throat of the carb and try to wiggle the "aux venturi" (not in carb-ese but those are the small cylinders suspended in the center of the throats of the primary and secondary sides of the unit). The recommendation was that if they are loose then the carb needs a significant rebuild (ie machine work and shimming). The play in the mounting apparently allows the fuel to leak/drip/pour directly into the manifold through the carb. Mine were mega loose and again, not being a carb guy, I added up the cost of the rebuild kit, labor, machine work, postage and down time while things got mailed back and forth and decided that the best move for me was to just buy a new carb and re-jet. I'm planning to give CD's Rx a try. It's costing me a couple of bucks but if this one lasts another 25 years it'll be worth it. . .

One other thought, if you plan to keep the car in UT and end up replacing the carb, consider de-smogging and going with a 32/36 DGEV (electric choke). From what I've read this may be a cleaner set up on a 49-state smog car.

Good luck. I'll keep an eye on your thread to see how things turn out for you.

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did you replace the plugs?

Yeah, replaced the plugs. I am going to pull them tonight to see what they look like.

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You said that now you have extended cranks, but please describe in detail how you are starting the car.

Two qucik taps on the gas pedal just prior to cranking with throttle closed until it fires up is usually adequate if the tune is good. There might be a clue to the condition if you're process is much different.

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Some more results from my testing:

Pulled the new plugs and the result is they are black after very minimal driving/running time.

Backed out the idle speed screw until it no longer touches the throttle stop lever. I couldn't keep the car running no matter where the mix screw was sitting at this point. Set the speed screw to 1.5 turns and the mix screw to 2.5 and began to try different combos. I found the smoothest was idle at 2.25 and mix at 2.5 turns. My RPMs at idle are about 950-1000. This is higher than redline recommended (7-900). At stop lights it feels smooth idling, with just a slight shiver, but much better than before when I was getting a diesel-shake at idle.

I did notice a slight reduction in performance at the top end of each gear. This could be in my mind, but it seemed like I couldn't get as much out of 2nd gear as I was with the old setup.

I included a couple shots below of the carb and the plugs (old plug on the left new on the right). Will any rebuild kit do, or is does it look and sound like I need something more extensive? I'd rather try my hand at rebuilding it, but if I decide to look for a new carb is the electric choke the way to go?

I will try a cold start tomorrow morning, but I'm worried it will be the same as yesterday (turning over and over and not holding an idle). Thanks for everyone's help so far.

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So, on this morning's cold start, I gave the gas pedal a couple of pumps before cranking over and it started up without too much effort, but I could not keep it running without a heavy foot on the pedal. The engine was shaking pretty hard even at 2000 RPMs and couldn't hold an idle at all.

Any ideas? It seemed to be tuned great yesterday when the engine was good and hot.

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