Looking at a "72" 02 and could use some tips

[rnorma1]

First...sorry for the long post.!

I'm looking at a car that is listed as a 1972 2002 this week. I know a lot of superficial stuff about the 02s but am hoping to get some tips on some specific things to look for when I look at the car in person. Here's a link to the car.

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/1103730347.html

First...sorry for the long post.!

Here's my questions:

1. I know the car is not really a 72 based on the tail lights. The owner has the title and it does say 72 and it matches the vin on the car. How or why might something like this happen? Should I worry about it?

2. RUST!?!?! My only real concern.

I know about looking for rust in the following areas: Rockers, rear shock towers, spare tire well, door stops, gas tank and mounting areas, bottom of doors, floors, around windshield and back glass etc etc. The ad includes a lot of pics and the rust that is shown doesn't look too bad but it's hard to tell.

He says the outer panel on one of the rockers is rusted (pics show it) but says the inner portion is ok. Obviously the spare tire well is rusted out but I'm not worried about that since it's an easy repair.

I have experience with rust repair body work and I'm a decent enough welder to deal with the areas he shows in the pics. I just don't want to deal with replacing the door pillars and A pillars or something like that. I'm more worried about areas now shown.

Is there any other areas I should look at?

3. The car has a 5 speed conversion. Anything I should look for concerning that?

4. Do any other concerns come to mind looking at the pics?

I'm not looking to turn the car into a super nice example of a 2002. In the long run, I would be setting the car up for track events, time trials and hill climbs. Fender flares, roll bar, seat etc so I will be cutting on the car anyway.

On the surface, this car looks right up my ally and I think I can get it for a pretty good price. It includes a lot of interesting parts and upgrades as well.....

....I just don't want to get blinded by all the plus side stuff and make a bad decision by overlooking something and missing a major problem.

Anyway, thanks for reading all of that and any help you can offer would be great!

[rnorma1]

BTW, I've owned and maintained an old BMW in the past. I had a 1982 323i with a lot of work done to it over the years. I liked the car a lot but in the end I was not a fanatic about it like some people were and decided the car belonged with someone that REALLY wanted that specific car since it was so unique. I ended up selling it to just such a guy.

Here's my previous car:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/211778

[Mike Self]

critical rust spots are the inner rockers and the rear inner wheel arches.

Check thru the archives to find exhaustive info on checking out both areas. While both can be fixed, they're time consuming, and usually you'll find the rust is about twice as bad as you thought it was.

Car has lotsa goodies on it, but price sounds a little steep if the body needs extensive structural or cosmetic work.

BTW, carbureted 72 VINs run from (approx) 2576500 to (actual) 2585137.

cheers

mike

[jetdog]

Look to see what rust that air dam could be hiding.

Did Weber ever make a 40/40 downdraft?

Never heard of mixing Bilstein Sports and HD's. Sounds wonky.

[dubois]

Do California a favor, get a one way ticket and drive a 76 back. Due to our unfavorable smog laws the 76 are being crushed. Eg: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1127294903.html or http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1126948553.html

The one in Jersey is very rough, looks like too much welding to me. Square lights and 72 title, there is some "esplainin" to do. You will recoup the cost of the trip in no time. Besides, what a better way to spend a week? Welding on one hand...traveling accross the US in a 2002?

[Jim_75Sahara]

That one is a rusty Franken-bimmer. Not my kind of thing. Fly out to Calif. and drive a much better '76 back. I'd bet Michael would even help you to scout out some winners. He definitely knows his way around '02's, body work and the effects of the smog laws in Calif.

[glucas321]

It suppose to be nice this weekend, why don't you consider taking a drive upstate. Otherwise, being a fellow tri-state '02 owner I would consider the advice from other posts and head west.

Could be worth the trip.

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/1127186560.html

[ClayW]

What kind of seats are those?

Good looking car. I'd consider it if I were looking.....but I already have a `76 that was originally a California car (though I bought it from a guy in Kansas.)

[Anschauer]

Well the guy calls it right "Rat rod" so that's kinda what it is.

Note the pre='73 seats, '74 - on dash and rear tail lights and the overall sweetness of those rear shock towers.

There's better out there than this - but for this the most it's worth is parts so say $800

[TTyMiller]

Just go to Cal nad get one of those cars. Leave that hot mess where it is. Does he include his boom box with that rat rod.

[rnorma1]

Thanks for the advice.

I would be turning the car into a weekend fun type of car. Track days, time trials and hill climbs etc. I'm not looking to build up a super nice example of an 02. More like fender flares and roll bar. Cutting up a car like this would not make me feel guilty.

I think I could get this car for a very low price but as everyone suggested, it's a risky car considering the rust and the confusing title. I asked about the title and the problem with the year but he didn't really address it. He did give the vin as 12572863.

Right now, my play car is a tracked out miata. I've been running them for a long time now but am interested in something older and something I can enjoy with my wife and daughter rather than my wife OR daughter.

The idea of flying out to cali to drive a car back is appealing....breaking down halfway back though is not!

[BarryA]

you've got to come to terms with based on your fabrication skills & welding ability and the time (and work space that you have available) to tangle with the project. If you've been running searches on this site, you've probably seen multiple threads about where rust lives and how to deal with it.....

As far as a couple of your specific questions go, see the comments in bold type below....

Here's my questions:

1. I know the car is not really a 72 based on the tail lights. The owner has the title and it does say 72 and it matches the vin on the car. How or why might something like this happen? Should I worry about it?

Best guess is that it very likely is a roundie, and that the rear center panel was replaced at some point in its past with a square-light panel and lights (probably due to accident damage). Wouldn't be the first time - there are also early cars running around with late noses that were grafted on when an early nose wasn't easy to come by.

2. RUST!?!?! My only real concern.

I know about looking for rust in the following areas: Rockers, rear shock towers, spare tire well, door stops, gas tank and mounting areas, bottom of doors, floors, around windshield and back glass etc etc. The ad includes a lot of pics and the rust that is shown doesn't look too bad but it's hard to tell.

He says the outer panel on one of the rockers is rusted (pics show it) but says the inner portion is ok. Obviously the spare tire well is rusted out but I'm not worried about that since it's an easy repair.

I have experience with rust repair body work and I'm a decent enough welder to deal with the areas he shows in the pics. I just don't want to deal with replacing the door pillars and A pillars or something like that. I'm more worried about areas now shown.

Is there any other areas I should look at?

If the seller doesn't balk at the suggestion, get the car up on a drive-on lift where you have open access to the entire underside, and take an ice pick to every sheet metal surface you can reach. If you've done rust repair before, you should have a pretty good idea of what sections you're willing to tangle with, and what's more work than you want to do.

3. The car has a 5 speed conversion. Anything I should look for concerning that?

Mainly the quality of the adaptation work - how well was the shift platform shortening and driveshaft shortening done, how was the rear crossmember relocation handled, etc.

quote]

[jgerry2002]

Did Weber ever make a 40/40 downdraft?

Yes they did, I have one on my 76.

Never heard of mixing Bilstein Sports and HD's. Sounds wonky.

Very very common recommendation many years ago, Sports front, HD's in the rear.

[Indy02]

Looking at the photos I am sure this is not a early car if you look at the relays on the left shock tower/ apron the early cars did not have them. Unless the left tower and apron have been replaced. Take it from me even if you want to have a track or weekend car you really want to start with something more rust free. Additionally the area behind the seat being cut out like it is also adds to loss of integrity. One last thing if the vin tag has been changed, you may be opening yourself up for trouble. Just my two cents. Buy something from out West you will thank yourself later!! Good luck!!! Oh, by the way on the ask me how I know thing I bought a what appeared to be a nice Midwest car and ended up scrapping it for parts!!

[auggiemize]

Wanna do track time?...Start with a beat to shit, but no rust car. You will put the car through stress that a road car will not get, and for me, I want to start with a little more structural integrety, as above folks have stated. Be safe, have more fun. Dave V. in NC