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Majkelangelo

Adjusting the carb linkage for full secondary opening

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I am finally taking the car out of storage and wanted to adjust my carb linkage (rod type) so my secondary opens up fully (weber 32/36), but I am somewhat stumped as to how to adjust it to ensure it opens up fully. I took a quick look (it was getting dark) but I could not figure it out.

Probably very simple, but for some reason I can't see it ...

Any ideas or pictures would be much appreciated.

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..."I took a quick look (it was getting dark)

but I could not figure it out. Probably very

simple, but for some reason I can't see it ..."

when you can see - press - or have someone help you,

press the gas pedal hard to the carpet and look at the rear of the carb

for the linkage hitting against the full open stop.

If it's not opening fully opening - it's many things which need you

to LOOK at :

bent inside pedal arm?,

pedal shaft and splined arm slipped

on the outside of the pedal box?,

bent lever and shaft running up to the firewall?,

shaft adjustment running fron the firewall piviot to

the carb?............whatcha got ??? whatcha SEE ?

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Thanks CD ... you are right, I should have done more due diligence by taking a better look in daylight. This forum is such a great resource, so often it's gets to easy to ask for help.

From what I saw, everything looked nice and straight, but it seemed to me that the range of adjustment was limited by the fact that we are dealing with rods here, and not cables.

I'll take another look and will report back!

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If you don't have someone to floor the pedal while you look, maybe try to jam a piece of wood or something like that to get the pedal down all the way. Then you can see how far the secondary barrel is opening. As for the linkage, I've had good luck just taking some pliars and sqeezing the "forked" slot where the linkage rod attaches so that there isn't any play.

Cheers,

Ben

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you can bend the tab that engages the 36 side so i kicks in a tad sooner as well. ;)

Little trick i learned from Mr.Capp.

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Actually, the rod can be adjusted infinitely-

you just loosen the pinch bolt on the arm

where it comes out of the pedal box and move

the arm on the pedal shaft itself. It's serrated,

so it'll probably want to move a 'click' in one direction

or the other.

I've found a lot of messed- up hardware at that pivot,

and the time taken to clean it up, straighten things, maybe

file the gap a bit wider if it's compressed has always

paid off with a good pedal.

That said, if your motor flops around badly, it'll pull the

rod too hard, and cause that joint to slip.

Then you lose full throttle again...

t

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..."I took a quick look (it was getting dark)

but I could not figure it out. Probably very

simple, but for some reason I can't see it ..."

when you can see - press - or have someone help you,

press the gas pedal hard to the carpet and look at the rear of the carb

for the linkage hitting against the full open stop.

If it's not opening fully opening - it's many things which need you

to LOOK at :

bent inside pedal arm?,

pedal shaft and splined arm slipped

on the outside of the pedal box?,

bent lever and shaft running up to the firewall?,

shaft adjustment running fron the firewall piviot to

the carb?............whatcha got ??? whatcha SEE ?

bringing this back up...can someone post a picture of the "full open stop" part of the weber? i recently just installed a gas pedal and with its limitted range, i'm not sure if i'm getting full throttle when fully depressed. i can see the linkage activating secondary but not sure if it's at 100%. tia.

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take the air cleaner off, open the choke, and look down the barrels

with a flashlight

(not a lighter... nor a candle... stick of dynomite is right out...)

and see if the plates are both vertical.

The rod linkage works fine, if it's set up properly.

t

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