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MS guys: What kind of fuel pressure regulator?


ClayW

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whatever bolts onto your fuel rail or if you want to mount it to a fender wall then practically anything will work. the cheapie ebay ones will.

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I've used Mallory adjustable regulators. What PSI/BAR are your injectors? The fuel pressure isn't super critical because you can make adjustments in tuning to compensate. But if your pressure is too low, you won't get good atomization and if your fuel pressure is too high your injectors can leak past the internal valve. There is a rather large 'safe' window though, so don't get too worried. IIRC, most new injectors are set to run around 3 BAR.

Mark DeBernardi

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The PSI is not all that important as long as it's consistent and somewhere around 34psi. People usually adjust fuel psi to make up or trick the fuel system into doing something they want. With MegaSquirt, all the adjustment happens in the ecu.

John

Fresh squeezed horseshoes and hand grenades

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that is really just a sleezy hack for systems where you can't easily remap the air/fuel curve.

DO spend your money on a WB O2 sensor. You'll need it to get an accurate fuel map.

Cheers!

John N

Forgive my ingorance. Is the one on the 318i fuel rail sufficient then? Does it just bolt right on?

I'm afraid that I'm overthinking this. Would I be over-complicating it by not using the stock fuel regulator?

Also, what about the fuel system plumbing? Is it straightforward or will I need a diagram?

Thanks!

ClayW
1967 1600-2 - M42 - 1521145          Follow my project at www.TX02.blogspot.com          E30 DD Project Blog

 

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that is really just a sleezy hack for systems where you can't easily remap the air/fuel curve.

DO spend your money on a WB O2 sensor. You'll need it to get an accurate fuel map.

Cheers!

John N

Forgive my ingorance. Is the one on the 318i fuel rail sufficient then? Does it just bolt right on?

I'm afraid that I'm overthinking this. Would I be over-complicating it by not using the stock fuel regulator?

Also, what about the fuel system plumbing? Is it straightforward or will I need a diagram?

Thanks!

It'l be a 3 bar. Many have the bar rating painted on them. Another way to confirm is't not a 2.5bar (old style) is to brush the number and do a search for cars if you are in doubt. The 318 used a 3 bar. I put the injectors on a rail with the regulator. Then hook up an air hose and turn on the compressor, when it hits 43psig the reg should start to open. Shut off the compressor and let it bleed down until the reg reseats and note the pressure.

You don't want to change the setting if you have an adjustable reg unless you like to spend your life retuning.

Also the Bosch is vacuum compensated, i.e. it lowers it's setpoint when there is high manifold vacuum to the injector open time can be greater. (Hook up a vacuum tube on the nipple when doing the air test, above, and when it reseats, suck on the vacuum tube and the reg will re-open because the setpoint is lowered). There are times when the min open time lets in more fuel than needed at idle if not pressure compensated depending on the size of injectory you have.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Also, what about the fuel system plumbing? Is it straightforward or will I need a diagram?

That depends on the regulator you use and how it was designed to work. Some regulators go at the end of the 'chain', after the fuel pump and the injectors. Some regulators go before the injectors and after the pump.

Another aspect to consider is how it'll look when it's done. If you can use more original components it'll look more factory. Or you can use a lot of aluminum aftermarket components and AN fuel line to have a more trick/race look.

Mark DeBernardi

BMW2002Badge.jpg

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