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Turbo Megasquirt EDIS 2.1L Forged M10 build-up. IT'S ALIVE!


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Howdy,

My 35 year old M10 was slowly leaking (then burning) oil, which is understandable for a machine that has endured so many years of punishment. Who knows what the P.O. had done to this thing, I have seen some odd things over the course of our time together. It was time to rebuild. I acquired a free Garrett TB0368 (T3) and decided I would build a turbo engine. While browsing through the for sale section of the board, I saw that Andrew (handle: 2590402) had a bunch of turbo parts for sale. Well long story short, I got a short block shipped from PA to CA and started the build.

This is the block as it arrived (minus motor mount):

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As you can see, the pistons are of the Ross forged variety in the 91.4mm size, yielding a displacement of 2.1 litres. The block also features Ireland Engineering coated "race" main and rod bearings, and the clearances are all to spec.

I will be running this water cooled T3, seen here on a table at Starbuck's:

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Mid tear-down

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The old head was crusty...

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So I machined/refreshed it \/ \/ \/

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Sparkly rockers:

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Installed new valve guide seals from the Victor Reinz set:

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Throw in all the valves and the cam. The valves take literally about a minute apiece to remove or install with a valve tool...

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Installed the rocker shafts and rockers. Yes, it is possible to do this completely without a cam tool (with the stock cam).

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Next was to take care of the front covers. They were dirty.

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Here is the lower cover with the new seals, oil pump chain, and Graf water pump:

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I drilled and tapped the front timing cover for 1/2" NPT for the turbo oil drain. Then I went ahead and plugged it for the planned break in period:

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Put on the head with a BMP turbo cutting ring head gasket for a bored engine. This gasket is made by Goetze and is nice in an epic fashion. I should end up with 8.5:1 compression. New head bolts of course, yowe.

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Next came the crank scraper from www.crank-scrapers.com. Kevin was great to do business with.

As it showed up:

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It has trap doors so the oil doesn't splosh up the side of the block during hard left turns but still allows the oil to drain down from the top end.

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I had to do a little grinding to get a perfect fit but as you can see, it can't get much closer. Check out the clearance to the counterweights:

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And the rod studs:

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Now that the engine was buttoned up, it was just time to install the nice clean oil pan. I painted it a light color so I could easily see any leaks. You are not supposed to use any gaskets with this scraper, just RTV.

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Next was to install all of the crank trigger components. I made this bracket out of aluminum. Like every other bracket, it bolts to the two lower water pump bolts:

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Lucky me! My old engine already had the euro/non-smog front pulley. I added some weld to it and had it machined to fit the Ford Escort 36-1 trigger wheel. I pressed it on after getting all of the alignment figured out.

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Everything mounted up:

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This is how it sits with the missing tooth 90* or 9 teeth ahead of the VR sensor at TDC.

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And the completed engine. You can see the fuel pump block off plate I made. I will be running a '91 318i unit.

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Finally back at home.

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Coming up next: Megasquirt assembly and installation.

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-Cody

'73 Deuce, the "Snailmobile"

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The Engine looks awesome. Hows the megasquirt programing working out? I cant wait to see more pictures and the dyno chart i never got to see.

-Andrew

1974 Cinnabar M2: S14/320CR/391LSD/Turbo Exhaust/Turbo Radiator/323 Trailing Arms/Ground Control Coilovers

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Thanks Andrew. The programming was kind of tough since I had never done it before and the configurator was confusing because the firmware INI files weren't agreeing. I did eventually get it running right by the end of the night though.

My buddy DJ just got your manifold. It's a small world.

-Cody

'73 Deuce, the "Snailmobile"

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Great build dude! Looks like it will be quite the car.

Im pretty new to 2002's and im wondering what kind of horsepower the drive line can take. I know m10's are good for some boost. One e30 guy was making upwards of 350whp on an m10. Thanks!

Keep it up!

Cars:

1991 325i Turbo m50

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Im no turbo wiz, but from what i hear you should break in a turbo motor with boost.

Great build though - Cant wait to see how you go!

this is true, but only a lower amount of boost, say you want to run about 10psi, run 3-5psi for run in.

holy negative camber batman!!!

02 Golf Yellow cruising the border of NSW/VIC!

tii pistons, 293, double valve springs, 40mm DCOE's, sump baffle, sway bars, lowered, 5spd, big brakes, 3pc wheels, bucket seats. Approx 150+hp

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I have seen that flat tops with the e12 make about 8:1 so a small "dome" like mine should make about 8.5:1. The stock pistons on some of the m10's including mine had the small piano shaped dome to them and had 8.5:1.

I will be running the Volvo downpipe and 2.5" straight pipe to possibly a small glasspack if it is too loud.

The guy with the 360hp m10 is Good & Tight on the BFc and he's running an e30. Here is a thread with the dyno chart:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=567355

-Cody

'73 Deuce, the "Snailmobile"

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