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Clutch slave cylinder on a 73 2002


jan1968

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I've looked at the past postings and most of the photos/diagrams of the clutch slave cylinder is different from what's on my car. Anybody know the part number for this?

Also, I have the bavauto bleeder tool and the instructions call to remove it which doesn't make sense to me.

Anybody out there use this tool?

Thanks in advance.

Jan1968

post-14545-13667595057907_thumb.jpg

73 inka

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That certainly is strange, it being held in by bolts/studs - everything I've seen has the slave held in with (pain in the ass) circlips.

Bleeding it shouldn't require anything more than a 7mm box wrench, a small length of aquarium tubing, a bottle and a friend. Making sure the brake fluid reservoir is full, have someone pump the clutch pedal a handful of times and hold it at the floor at the last depression. Crack the bleeder screw with the aquarium tubing attached and let it drain into the bottle. Repeat until there are no air bubbles and the pedal has a nice, firm feel.

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The slave cylinder in the photo is installed upside down. Bleeder valve should be at the bottom. Internal drilling vents the top.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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5 degree wobble on a deep socket with a 6 inch extension

getting it back on... wobble with a shallow extension and an ear plug shoved in the socket to keep the nut at the outer face.

Make it different... or just do it differently

Bill in Petaluma, CA

1969 1600 supercharged m20 in progress

1970 2002 RIP -- crashed then quartered

1971 2002 M20/02 RIP -- nothing but pieces now

1972 2002 gone, but not missed POS

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Now why didn't I ever think of using an ear plug (or several on a deep one) to keep a nut at the leading edge of the socket.

Excellent advice!

Here's another one I've learned over the years:

If your wobbly extension is too "wobbly", use some electrical tape wrapped around it to stiffen it up.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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It took me all afternoon to get that damn thing out. The space under the car was pretty tight, it was pretty hard to get to it. I ended up removing the bleeder valve first so that I could run the sockets and extension with wobler above the cylinder and onto that nut. As it turns out, I had more problems getting the second nut out, the bolt was sliding so I couldn't get the nut out (it turns out the cylinder is attached with a nut and bolt as opposed to a stud bolt). I used my 1/4" rachet.

Next on the list is the clutch master cylinder and the pedal box rehab.

Thanks again, here are some photos of the adventure this afternoon and fruits of my labor.

Cheers,

Jan1968

post-14545-13667595084505_thumb.jpg

post-14545-13667595085602_thumb.jpg

73 inka

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