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Oh no. Not another M2 project.


Lee

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So, here's what I found this morning.

WinterSwap.jpg

Then proceeded to test fit some hoses. Some are 2002, some are Eta/Euro323i leftovers that I cut up to fit. It still needs a bit of tweaking, but I am happy. The lower hose will line up straight with the e21 rad, which has a 90º rubber hose too. Basically, I will use a straight tube to connect both hoses. Let's not forget that the motor has not been set back yet. But I already have more room than most S14 swap. It will be even better after moving the motor.

Thermostat_1.jpg

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Brake harder. Go faster.

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Exhaust plans?

2.5" exhaust line with a stainless steel 5" x 9" Magnaflow center, and rear 6" round stainless silencer. But exhaust will be dne in the spring as the car isbeing stored away on Saturday.

Lee

Massivescript_specs.jpg

Brake harder. Go faster.

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Just installed the new engine mounts. They fitted perfectly and setting back the engine allowed the header to clear the steering idler arm. I ground the bottom of the tranny bell housing to clear the center rod. The aluminum S14 is a tough fit though. I must be doing something wrong. I am currently banging a 2002 steel pan to fit the crossmember.

I now have ample room between the engine and the rad. The hoses will connect easily too. Basically, the only deception I have is wit the S14 oil pan not fitting.

There is limited clearance at the back between the engine and the firewall. This whole mod is better recommended for racers wanting the best car balance, at the expense of perhaps a bit more difficult work on the car if the clutch must be changed. Maybe more people will opt for only 1" set back.

Lee

MovedBack_1.jpg

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MovedBack_3.jpg

Massivescript_specs.jpg

Brake harder. Go faster.

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Basically today was hell. I spent 6 hours in my backyard with very cold 0 degre F (-18 Celcius). Basically, the problem I am having is with the S14 oil pan touching the driver side frame rail. The flange is about 1/8" away from the rail, but the side of the pan is touching the ridge of the subframe. I will need to cut (again) the side of the oil pan. I didn't cut enough. I will also bolt the 3 fasteners from the top, requiring that I weld the lower pan oil and retap them.

IMG_3948b.jpg

I wonder how Mario at VSR did it with this swap. I am already at least 1" narrower and I still have contact. I also had contact with the stock mounts.

IMG_2213.jpg

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Brake harder. Go faster.

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I wonder how Mario at VSR did it with this swap. I am already at least 1" narrower and I still have contact. I also had contact with the stock mounts.

From an earlier post from RoyW:

... the oil pan was custom made (several times over!) from a couple of e30 M3 pans, cut-up and welded to fit in this particular build.

-RoyW

Also, a pic of his subframe, again, from one of RoyW's earlier posts ...

IMG_1136.jpg

.........

David

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Now I fully understand what was dome by VSR on Roy's car. It does involve a lot of cutting and welding (and thinking - good job Mario), on both upper and lower oil pans.

Upper oil pan

The flange where the lower pan bolts on is moved by 60mm (distance betwen bolts) to the passenger side. This is done to clear the driverside framerail.

Lower oil pan

The front looks stock, but from the back it would properly show that not only the pan has been moved, but that section around the oil pump pick-up is still in the same location (I understand myself).

Yup. There's a lot of work and it clearly shows Mario's very inventive work and attention to details. Well, more cutting and welding work for me this winter. In fact, it won't be that difficult as I already have the drawing for that flange. I only need to adapt it. Also, I don't think a gasket exists. So probably it will require silicone to seal.

bmw_parts_E30_m3_engine_web_image.jpg

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Brake harder. Go faster.

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I checked a spare lower oil pan I have at home, and I will cut it in the morning. The lower pan can easily be cut, sections moved around and rewelded. I will make mine with the cut to clear the subframe triangulation though.

Maybe I will be able to supply an upper pan flange machined from aluminum. That could make the process much easier. To cut and weld the lower pan, all holes can be lined up on the supplied flange. Then that flange can be welded on the upper pan. That would make a very easy kit for M2s with S14 oil pans

Massivescript_specs.jpg

Brake harder. Go faster.

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Here are the few steps of my second attempt to fit the S14 oil pan to the M2. The whole lower pan will be moved 60mm to the passenger side. Which is more than enough to clear the frame rail and the subframe. If you cut the triangular reinforcement on the subframe, then no need to cut a bevel in the pan. I will cut one later on.

Stock pan

StockS14pan.jpg

Modified pan to move it by 60mm while the area near the pick-up stays still. More volume.

ModdedS14pan_1.jpg

Modded lower oil pan installed on the upper oil pan. You can see the bevel that I traced and that will be cut to clear the triangular reinforcement on the subframe. The part that portrudes on the lft belongs to the upper pan and will need to be cut and moved by about 60mm.

ModdedS14pan_2.jpg

While an extension will need to be made on the upper pan to match the lower pan. The internals of the lower pan will need to be cut and relocated so that the baffles are in the proper location.

ModdedS14pan_3.jpg

Quality check by our division's head iinspector.

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Tech_Inspection_2.jpg

Tech_Inspection_3.jpg

Massivescript_specs.jpg

Brake harder. Go faster.

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Now you ca see that the driverside of the upper pan has ben shortened (by 60mm) to maych with the moved lower pan. Lots of welding will be required. Next step will be to extend the upper pan's flange to match with the lower pan.

Before

ModdedS14pan_3.jpg

And after

DSCF0142.jpg

Massivescript_specs.jpg

Brake harder. Go faster.

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The port for the dipstick is not on either the upper or lower pan, it is on the block. The opening on the lower pan is for the oil vapor return, which I will not use. The cam cover breather will go straight to a catch can.

Massivescript_specs.jpg

Brake harder. Go faster.

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