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Guibo rubbing on shift linkage....and drive shaft alignment?

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I was working on the drive shaft today and while trying to figure out how to get the bolts into the guibo that is already attached to the transmission I noticed that 2 of the raised areas on the guibo rub on the shift linkage. That can't be right. It looks like I have to take it off anyway to get the bolts in so am I better off using a different one?

Could I be missing something?

As for the driveshaft, is it just the front part of the shaft that has to be aligned with the transmission? That's what I got from other posts, but wanted to make sure.

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youll want to adjust the shift linkage parts

#3/4 in the picture

loosen that bolt/nut and push upwards on the linkage and tighten

29.png

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loosen nut #4 on the bushing end of arm #19,

and the nut on the upper end of the arm,

and then push up on the shifter platform

to compress the round foam pad against

the tunnel floor. Missing the pad between the shift plattform and tunnel?

Better get one from any dealer. Special oil resistant

and keeps heat and noise out. Your 2 rubber bushing

mounts may also be loose or broken causing the platform

to droop. Get it all degreased so you can see what's what.

02shiftpartsEARLY.jpg

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Is part 12 really needed?

I haven't put mine back, it looked a bit rough and couldn't see it being essential so left it off. Am i going to be in for a world of trouble?

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Is part 12 really needed?

I haven't put mine back, it looked a bit rough and couldn't see it being essential so left it off. Am i going to be in for a world of trouble?

I can't see a mechanical function for the pad. My guess is it is there to insulate the pax compartment from road noise and exhaust heat.

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I know this is an old thread, but am experiencing similar problems with my 6 bolt guibo (5 speed conversion) Is it possible to replace the rubber mounts (#11 in pic) without having to remove

the trasnmission?

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On the 8 bolt flange, the new guibo comes with a pre-tensioning strap.  You bolt the guibo to the flanges and then remove the strap.  That way, the guibo is compressed and won't interfere with the linkage.  To repeat this process you require an extra large hose clamp to compress the guibo.  I'm sure the 6-bolt version would work the same way.  Make sure the bolts are tightened VERY WELL.  DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE THE CLAMP after connecting the driveshaft.

 

Strap on new guibo:

DSC01923.thumb.JPG.fc2e986c2e40b7dbc001625a7063d209.JPG

 

Hose clamp for re-used guibos:

DSC02378fx2.thumb.jpg.daf40e0d4d7f200c8e08d51cf74023b0.jpg

AGAIN: DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE THE CLAMP AFTER ASSEMBLY.

 

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14 hours ago, Cruzr said:

Is it possible to replace the rubber mounts (#11 in pic) without having to remove

the trasnmission?

I removed #11 and replaced them, along with the other bits that came in the rebuild kit (with the car up on jack stands).  I was able to work around the drive shaft without too much trouble.  An Allen socket on a long extension did the trick.  The bolts have a tendency to come loose, so cleaning / Loctite is recommended.

 

Here is a photo from when I took mine apart.  You can see one of the bolts you'll be aiming at.

(and the BIG fat e21 transmission mount that the PO installed)

 

022.thumb.JPG.b43eca735b370070d9b8382944af0620.JPG

 

and the new ones, ready to go in

029.thumb.JPG.b228ac61d1b44e1ba8314124970f3a1c.JPG

(and my boot)

Tom

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The drivers side hole is drilled thru the case and need to seal the treads.  That's where most of the grease on the back of the trans comes from.  See the above photo for grease coating.

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(edited)
On 7/6/2008 at 3:47 AM, WBeaumont said:

Is part 12 really needed?

I haven't put mine back, it looked a bit rough and couldn't see it being essential so left it off. Am i going to be in for a world of trouble?

 

No trouble, but it's a small detail to help keep noise, debris and smells from entering the cabin.

 

Ha!  I just realized I responded to post from 2008.  Duh.

Edited by PaulTWinterton

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