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CA 76 smog wiring woes, starter won't crank

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Guest Anonymous

Well, this nightmare started w/ replacing a tired old starter, then I got ambitious b/c the car's going back to North Carolina and started desmogging. I have spent hours doing forum searches but like one of the vacuum lines from my dizzy I'm a little retarded. Any hoo, I've got the smog wiring harness half pulled off similar to a picture that's posted on the forum but I don't know what to do about 2 wires coming from the starter that dissapear into the smog harness and 2 green wires that go to the #12 fuse. I'm running a blue coil, and right now the starter will not crank when I turn the key to start but dash lights are on, etc.

On the starter there is a black and brown wire at the 6 oclock position and a black and red wire at the noon position. From what I've read it sounds like I don't necessarily need the black and red wire but I'm trying to figure out where the other end of the black and brown wire goes.

There's a solid green and a green and white wire coming from the smog wiring connecting to the number 12 fuse. Any ideas?

Your insight is much appreciated, Thanks!

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l'd start by tracing the 2 + wires on your coil back through the wiring harness. I did the desmog recently and found that 2 wires (I think both were green) should be connected to the coil. I believe one ran from the # 12 fuse and the other was from the starter. I am also running bosch blue coil. When only one of the wires was connected, the car cranked but wouldn't start. good luck.

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Some of that "Smog" harness powers more than just the smog equipment.... I usually just pick out one wire I can use for the weber idle solenoid and zip tie the rest into a nice clean bundle...

That being said, on a '76 that Green wire at fuse 12 goes to the power side of the coil! But not B4 going through a tiny inline ballast resistor and changing wire color to clear... Thus, a blue coil that already has an internal resistor does not need this inline one and you are best off using an original black coil! OR run a new 12 or 14 gauge green wire from that #12 fuse to the blue coil....

If you use the blue coil with the original tiny inline resistor then your spark output is GREATLY reduced!!!

The black Tach signal and coil neg wires also are in that harness....

Oil light wire too.....

As far as I can remember the black/red wire is one of them that powers that relay on the firewall the one that controls the magnetic vacuum valves... It goes to one of the starter poles.

The only wires you need at the starter are the two BIG ones (one is batt + and the other is Alt output) and one black/yellow (or sometimes it's only black) at roughly 6-o'clock. That black yellow is the start signal from the ignition switch...

Thus, you can see why that harness is best left alone (tied off neatly) unless you have the skill/time to rewire nearly half of the engine running components.

If you really want to remove that harness for a cleaner under hood look then email me off list and I'll walk you through it over the phone.

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You may want to check to see that you also have a green wire running from the #12 fuse to the exhaust side of the carb. I've got a Weber 32/36 and the connection is close to the base of the carb.

Thanks to the other post re increasing the gauge size of the wire running from the #12 to the bosch blue coil, thats a change I haven't made yet but will do soon.

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