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Center tie rod (idler arm) replacement question.

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The recommended torque on the castellated nuts is 30 lb./ft., but, if at that point, the cross-drilled hole for the cotter pin is not available should you back the nut off until you can get the cotter pin through, or should you tighten the nut a little more 'til the pin can go through?

Bob Napier

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Since you have a taper thats fitting the ball joint into the drag link it'll hold if you back it off for clearing the cotter pin hole. If you've ever removed one of those you know how difficult it is. You need a ball joint puller or air chisel.

The best way is to put shim stock unter the castle nut for compensation until the holes align at the proper torquing spec, but its really not necessary on the drag link.

The quickes method is test for hole alignment at 25 ft-lbs. Then slowly increase the torque until the cotter pin hole is not obstructed by the castle nut. This should provide a proper fit with no chance of play in the linkage.

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