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carlfriedman

Engine removal, no hidden pitfalls?

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Stock 73... motor is coming out this coming weekend with tranny left in place. Removed plenty of motors in other cars so assume this is straighforward, disocnnect all wires and hoses attached to the the motor, undo the motor mounts and bolts to tranny and yank it out? No secret hidden bolts or anything like that?

Comments welcome....and I know the Haynes manual says to pull motor and trans together but I'm not.

carl

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your a wise man.

Remove the gearbox first for SAFETY.

Remove the distributor, and yer on your way.

an ALTERNATIVE is to drop the entire motor

and front sub frame out the bottom as the factory

assembled your car. This of course requires

rolling jacks, having the car supported high enough for

the unit to clear when pulling out forword.

while the motor is out - now is the time to repair your cracked steering gear box mounting support arm. Clean it well and wire brush it

to see the cracks.

02factorybodyENGINEINSTALL.jpg

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Guest Anonymous

Pull out the radiator for more fore-aft room. Get a good engine hoist with a translating support bar so you can tilt the engine. Also pull the distributor it is pretty close to the fire wall.

I recomend that you do as you plan leave the transmission in the car but support it with a anjustable jack. I pulled my transmission out with the engine and I had a full on nightmare.

elevate the cars front end about 12-18 inches and put it on jack stands so you have ground clearance to do the negine mounts.

Have fun

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Remove distributor and oil sender first. Maybe that is obvious, but I thought I would mention it.

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Hey Carl!

Yep - leaving the trans in the car is completely doable. I swapped my motor this way - with the hood on and windshield installed, using the arm of a 2 post automotive LIFT and chains/leveler. Nuthin' will make you see Jeebus, like seeing the oil pan swinging within 1mm of your windshield, or freshly painted hood!

On a standard hoist - it should be a cakewalk. The issues you might have will be clearance for the hoist legs/wheels under the car. Get creative, and you'll do fine. Unlike FIATS - you won't have 2" piles of rust behind each of the car's front wheels to roll over! (had to get that one in - sorry!)

Support trans as others suggest, remove distributor, radiator, and downpipe. I chose to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, but that's optional. (didn't want to dink up the fragile Webers against the booster!)

Upon re-installation it is CRUCIAL that you have the passenger side motor mount limiter pc installed, and adjusted properly. Otherwise the fan can / will hit the radiator! Use a long 6mm hex bit on the pass. mount reaching through pre-drilled holes in subframe from underneath. Inspect driver's side mounting tab (steering box mounting area on subframe) for cracks....they're imfamous for this!) Easily welded while motor is out.

Best o luck!

Paul Wegweiser

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Guest Anonymous

There aint nothing out of the ordinary to removing the engine with or without the transmission. Since you are no neophyte, plan on more time for the unexpected fuel line that won't uncouple or the wiring harness that shouldn't be attached where you find it. It is surprisingly straightforward, but you never know!

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Hey Paul, this 02 has more rust than any Fiat I worked on! Thank you all for the advice.

I'm doing this to find out what's messed up with the clutch since it won't completely disengage and makes shifting impossible.

carl

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Hey, don't forget to remove the clutch cover plate (# 1 below), it's bolted in by (2) 10mm bolts. YOu won't be able to get the engine out without removing it...don't ask me how I know.

post-886-1366759160059_thumb.png

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