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Stub Axles

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I am in the process of rebuilding the rear suspension on my '76. I noticed the drivers side stub axle appears to have have some pitting on the bearing surface, and the spline also seems to have some pitting, but is not distorted. Is this something I should be concerned about?

I pulled off a stub axle off of my '73 that I parted out and realized it is different. The '73 is not threaded and thinner where it meets the half shaft. I'd assume they are interchangeable.

I am leaning towards running the '73 axle on one side, and '76 on the other.... But if there is a significant advantage to the '76, I will buy a new one or source a good used one (or maybe the one I have is ok?)

This car will be getting an s14, and I have heard their is potential for failure on these components.

TIA

Axle in question... pitting is on bearing surface nearest to and on the spline.

DSC00854.jpg

Comparison of '76 on left, and '73 on right (no cease is on the spline... that is why it is brownish red)

DSC00857.jpg

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YOUR SPLINES ARE TOAST:

buy new stub axle and splined hub.

As you said - loosing a wheel while your goosing up

all that new power is a bummer. And having to repeat

all that labor for a axle that does not stay tight is

another bummer.

02rearwheelbearings02diagramspec.jpg

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Huh.

I wouldn't say that the splines are toast, necessarily-

the only real test of that is to put the hub on and check for free play-

but from the pic it looks like the bearing seized at one point.

So I'd use the later stub and its hub.

Check all of your parts carefully- what's a lot more common is to

have one come loose, and then wear the end face of the hub and the

spacer about .020. THAT chews up the splines, and lets the hub start rocking.

Then a garage throws new bearings into it, and things never work quite right

after that...

Bah.

Toby

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I am in the process of rebuilding the rear suspension on my '76. I noticed the drivers side stub axle appears to have have some pitting on the bearing surface, and the spline also seems to have some pitting, but is not distorted. Is this something I should be concerned about?

I pulled off a stub axle off of my '73 that I parted out and realized it is different. The '73 is not threaded and thinner where it meets the half shaft. I'd assume they are interchangeable.

I am leaning towards running the '73 axle on one side, and '76 on the other.... But if there is a significant advantage to the '76, I will buy a new one or source a good used one (or maybe the one I have is ok?)

This car will be getting an s14, and I have heard their is potential for failure on these components.

TIA

Axle in question... pitting is on bearing surface nearest to and on the spline.

DSC00854.jpg

Comparison of '76 on left, and '73 on right (no cease is on the spline... that is why it is brownish red)

DSC00857.jpg

All that power from an S14 motor (and the $$ you are spending). New stub axles are cheap insurance. Don't put the old axles back in and have them end up being the achilles heel of the suspension.

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The stub axle broke on my former 74 2002 while I was going about 80 on 1-15 between Victorville and Barstow. I had to nearly change my underwear after that incident. When it broke, it took the whole wheel with it (drivers side). The wheel went off the car and across the median and other lanes of oncoming traffic, how it didn't hit another car I don't know. I never did find the wheel, I'm sure it rolled for miles out in the desert. My car just went down on the rear trailing arm and I managed to get it to the side of the road with no problem. I'm lucky I was driving on a flat stretch of road when it broke. I could imagine what might have happened if it had broke while I was on a twisty windy road. With that said, do replace your stub axles if you have any doubt.

G-Man

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The stub axle broke on my former 74 2002 while I was going about 80 on 1-15 between Victorville and Barstow. I had to nearly change my underwear after that incident. When it broke, it took the whole wheel with it (drivers side). The wheel went off the car and across the median and other lanes of oncoming traffic, how it didn't hit another car I don't know. I never did find the wheel, I'm sure it rolled for miles out in the desert. My car just went down on the rear trailing arm and I managed to get it to the side of the road with no problem. I'm lucky I was driving on a flat stretch of road when it broke. I could imagine what might have happened if it had broke while I was on a twisty windy road. With that said, do replace your stub axles if you have any doubt.

G-Man

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The reddish brown indicates that the axle was working back and forth. this will create wear in the spline area. DO NOT USE THAT AXLE!!!

The hub is also probably worn. Replace both. I had an axle break on me on the track. It beat me into the pits. I now use the Coop axles with no problems. G

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Which one are you talking about?

The one on the left is the one I am concerned about, the other one on the right is what I am thinking about replacing it with.

The reddish brown on the spline of the one on the right is no-cease that someone must have put on the spline so it did not get stuck to the hub. I have since cleaned it off and the spline looks fine.

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e3 somewhere in nj - here's where your wheel will leave your car. (the dots mark the snap-off point )

Used axles are USED for a reason.

clean both till you can eat your lunch off the splines

and look again. That metal errosion and galling also occurs

in the hub splines. They work against each other.

You replace both or the new part willbe eaten by

the old part in short order - you post here some

time later:: "GEE I just replaced my rear wheel

bearings and my wheel fell off

while my sister was driving her

friends out for ice cream ?!?!"

axle.jpg

and another illustration of Toast & JAM marks the failure points

axle2.jpg

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CD-- I appreciate you spending the time pointing out the failure points. I agree that this axle is not 100%, so it should be replaced with a better unit.

Would a '73 unit be a suitable replacement? This is one point nobody has touched on, as there clearly are differences. I have since cleaned the splines, and they look fine.

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Guest Anonymous

With an S14, I would seriously recommend having some billet steel stub axles made up as the originals were not intended for 200+ hp. At the VERY least, get new OEM units and have them checked every six months (assuming hard driving). Jeff Ireland (a trustworthy authority) was the guy who originally told me not to f**k around with this after watching one of his rear wheels pass him on the race track.

COOP (1973 tii with 2.5 S14 and custom billet axles)

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Guest Anonymous

With an S14, I would seriously recommend having some billet steel stub axles made up as the originals were not intended for 200+ hp. At the VERY least, get new OEM units and have them checked every six months (assuming hard driving). Jeff Ireland (a trustworthy authority) was the guy who originally told me not to f**k around with this after watching one of his rear wheels pass him on the race track.

COOP (1973 tii with 2.5 S14 and custom billet axles)

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