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danjrusdug

Anyone have a Frigiking wiring diagram?

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Mike Self asked this question last fall and it appears that he never got a reply unless someone contacted him offline.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,297210/

SO............P L E A S E.......Somebody help me. I would love to look at a wiring diagram as the PO of my tii tapped into this thing and it has extra wires hanging out.

I am putting my console back together after putting in new carpet and I'd like to do it right. I am going to the Vintage next week and my time is running out!

Thanks in advance,

Doug

'73 tii Atlantik

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If I take a pic or 2 of the wiring of a frigiking console I have, would that help ?

AC wiring is pretty simple on these cars at least, so if you have the frigiking console, there is only a 12 volt wire running to the compressor, 1 ground wire, & 1 B+ or switched 12 volt supply wire to hook up, and with Frigiking, it had a separate fuse & no connection to the heater switch like behr's did.

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Dan,

That would be awesome. I am going to take another look as the console also has the hazard switch and the green dummy light switch. Mine also has a small green indicator light at the left of the right hand A/C switch. The PO has these tapping into each other.

I probably need to draw out what they have so that I can actually sit down and trace what is going on.

Thanks Dan. I'll watch out for your post.

Doug

'73 tii Atlantik

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OK, I have cell phone pics of all of this now, but need to use another pc to get them on here.

What are your AC problems ? does the fan come on at all ? what about the compressor ?

On my frigiking, I hooked it up to a bat in the garage to double check all this,

1 Green color ground wire, comes from behind the blower motor, goes to ground, probably is a loop terminal under one of the 2 10mm nuts that holds the heater box in. 1 Red wire comes from small wire bundle taped as a harness from the front of the console, it should have an inline fuse holder there, runs around to passenger side of AC console on mine. 1 Blue wire also comes from same place as red wire, & it should run through the firewall with AC hoses up to the compressor, it supplies power to the compressor.

That's it, just 3 wires to hook up a frigiking.

AC compressor gets it's ground from the block or body, some may have short black wire running from bracket to block or body. And behind the console front plastic where the temp & fan speed controls are, you have a red & blue wire that go to the left side control, should be the temp control. There are 5 wire terminals on the fan speed switch, & there are 2 small coils of wire that have 3 wires hooked up to them, these are just low value, high power resistors, that are used to drop the voltage for medium & slow speeds.

If you want, it's easy to hook up a relay to kill power to the frigiking when the car is off, i.e. make it only come on when key is in run position. I did that to mine way back when & also added a heavier wire straight from the bat or fuse block ( I forget which, either is OK) to reduce the voltage drop that the factory wiring had, this made the fan blow a bit faster at all speeds, which equals more cool. I never hooked up a kill when heater fan is on option, never had a behr at that time, didn't know they did that, plus if you can run both fans, you can defrost the windows with dehumidifed air from your AC, a feature the behr's can't do :-)

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One more pic, could only post 5 & this pic has digital crapola, but you can see the 2 coil resistors & the 3 wires. Hope this helps, let me know if you have a voltmeter, for me, this is easy to troubleshoot.

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thats very helpful dan. does this require a relay or can it just be wired up?

also, any clue what amperage the inline fuse is? im going to try and finish mine today

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Dunno of it helps or not, but here's a behr one that someone sent me waybackwhen...

I wouldn't think it would be THAT much different.

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It's been 15 years since I had that car, so I can't remember the exact fuse size, but I think I used common car fuse sizes, so 15 or 20 is my guess, what I'd do is run it on high fan & make sure the compressor is running, put a DC amp meter in series in place of the fuse holder, then pick a fuse that is about 3 amps higher than that running current, you should be safe. If that blows from time to time, increase the size of the fuse by another amp or two. I don't think it used a 25 amp like the behr.

Yes, there similar in concept but the behr used a fan in front of the condensor (my frigi-king had no fan up there), and they used a compressor cut off switch on the drier, which is simply in series with the compressor power lead, cuts off the compressor if the freon is too low. Also the behr's used a different speed control for the fan, had a rheostat (high power variable resistor, or potentiometer) and a single coil resistor pack for more variation on fan speed, which makes it a little more complicated. These fan speed switches for frigikings can be adapted to replace a behr type, which tend to go bad after 20+ years. You need to buy a 2 resistor coil resistor pack ($15) for a modern car & wire it in, as the behr only has one coil resistor, so you can then have 3 speeds, less the variable part. Any competent Auto AC supply house will have the 5 terminal 3 speed fan switch for abut $15, same for the 2 wire temp control. You should use a relay for switched power IMO on the frigiking, as we all know these were dealer or importer added AC from the early 70's, mine was wired so it was on even with no key in the ignition, that's why I addded the relay, then realized later the wire guage was too small & had significant voltage drop when the system was on, plus this relay takes the load off your ignition switch. You can also add a relay under the hood & install a fan up there, just use the compressor wire to one side of relay coil, other side of coil to ground, then run wire from bat to one relay term, other terminal to the fan, other side of fan to ground, but put another inline fuse with the wire from the battery to this relay. This will keep the fan up front on, only when the compressor is on, it can be wired to be on the whole time the AC is on too, not just when the compressor cycles.

You could also get a receiver dryer with cut out switch & do like the behr's & all modern vehicles, then if someone else happens to be driving your car, & the freon leaks out, the compressor will shut off, but do you really let someone else drive your 02 :-?

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Doug,

This may be of some use to you. I have a 72 Volvo 1800ES with the dealer installed A/C. Frigiking had the contract to supply the unit to Volvo, and I am pretty sure the electrical installs were pretty much the same across the board for all the aftermarket units.

Earl

74 02 Lux

72 Volvo 1800ES

02 M Roadster

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Dan, Earl, & 2002Targa,

Thanks for the replies. I printed out this info and am going back to it today.

I'm not having a problem with the A/C running (yet), I just wanted to understand what the PO had tapped into the wiring for and where it went.

Come to find out, he has an indicator light that comes on when the A/C is on. I wired up a stereo last night and have the console back in place ready to be screwed down. Since it took a bottle of wine to get to that point last night, I opted to not hook the battery back up and try things out until I got up today. Here I go............

Doug

'73 tii Atlantik - inching closer to having interior done for [email protected]

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hey doug, if yu could call me it would be great. 612 298 5725 or email me your number and ill call you. i have a couple ?'s

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