Jump to content
752dbl02

BEST ENGINE SWAP- Bang for your Buck??

11 posts / 10248 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

Alright, like everyone else, i am getting sick of having a car that struggles up hills. Dont get me wrong, i love my 02 but after driving my dads E36 M3 for a couple of weekends, some power would be nice. :)

Now, i know that many people have dont the M20 swap, which would be most desirealbe, but money is a problem of course, as well as time. I have also heard of the M42 from the E36 and late E30 318 transplant, which seems like it would be easier than the M20 because of the obvious difference in size.

Now for the third option; a built performance motor from someone like Korman Autoworks, or Racetep perf. Both of their stage two engines yeild about 150 hp, but the Korman one is $9600, while racetep advertises theirs at $3900(labor not included). Or, i could just build the motor myself.

So, which would be the best way to go, bang for your buck, and the easiest swap?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Alright, like everyone else, i am getting sick of having a car that struggles up hills. Dont get me wrong, i love my 02 but after driving my dads E36 M3 for a couple of weekends, some power would be nice. :)

Now, i know that many people have dont the M20 swap, which would be most desirealbe, but money is a problem of course, as well as time. I have also heard of the M42 from the E36 and late E30 318 transplant, which seems like it would be easier than the M20 because of the obvious difference in size.

Now for the third option; a built performance motor from someone like Korman Autoworks, or Racetep perf. Both of their stage two engines yeild about 150 hp, but the Korman one is $9600, while racetep advertises theirs at $3900(labor not included). Or, i could just build the motor myself.

So, which would be the best way to go, bang for your buck, and the easiest swap?

I don't know about you but I live in/near the mountains, and my old 2002 never struggled up hills, it was fine and mine wasn't a built 150hp one either, 120hp max. If your engine is that tired. your cheapest alternative is to simply rebuild what you have. A good rebuild can be done for under $2.5K a hot 2002 engine from Korman etc would be nice, but you can built a similar engine for less than 1/2 what they ask.

As for the baby six install or other types of engines. I've never done one, but with the number of used M20 engines out there you could probably do it for less $ up front but more time to install. Of course if you value your time it will be a wash but you will have more hp and torque than a 4 cylinder can do. Honestly the best bang for the buck is a turbocharger. You can turbocharge a stock 2002 engine for under $1500 with some sourcing, lots of home fabrication and used parts in junk yards or off ebay. To do it right would be the same cost as a good engine rebuild, but again it's all about $ vs time and what you value more.

Of course there's always a small block V8 with T5 tranny out of a Ford Mustang that you can buy for $500...........

WH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, I was gonna say, even with 160,000 miles and just a 38/38 my car stormed up hills like it was born for it. I'd rebuild the stock motor, the car is FUN with that much power, you don't need anything excessive.

Bryan

red73

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kinda depends on what you're going for. Use the search and you'll find a lot of opinions.

I'm doing a Megasquirt conversion on my mildly upgraded M10 and I expect that it will be a little stronger, but more importantly, it will be more reliable.

Other wise, my finger on the pulse of the community says this:

M42 - Reliable and inexpensive, but not a HUGE power gain. About the same work as an S14, but less power. Cheaper than the S14, though.

S14 - Awesome but kind of expensive. Everyone seems REALLY happy with their conversions.....and with the fact that they didn't have to do much fabrication.

M20 - Awesome and not so expensive. There are a lot of these motors around and the parts are still cheap. You'll have to do some fabrication, though. You can have a shop do it, but then you'll pay a lot for labor. Everyone that has this conversion can't seem to believe how fast and reliable their 2002 has become.

Otherwise, you could just rebuild your M10. Give it 9.5:1 pistons and a ported head.

Additionally, what's your diff ratio? If you have a 3.64:1, then you might consider a 3.9 or 4.11. Just remember to get the matching speedometer to go with it!

Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

difficulty with anything but the steepest grades - my 69 will pull every grade on I-80 eastbound over the Sierras (summit at about 7000 feet) at 70+ in 5th as long as I keep the speed up . Engine isn't that radical, either (mild head work, 9.1 compression, Schrick 184 cam, 38/38 Weber) - rest of the drivetrain is an E21 overdrive 5 speed, 3.64 open diff and 185/70x13 tires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well i guess my engine is really hurting....

I mean it doesn't struggle persay up hills, but it doesnt accelerate up them.

I believe the motor is stock, i am not sure if has the 32/36 or the two barrel solex. I am assuming it has a 32/36 because webber is imprinted on the side of the choke.

My mechanic buddy says he thinks the thing is putting about 60 horse to the wheels, which from what you guys say your cars have, is EXTREMELY low, but im not positive on that part because i havent had a chance to strap it to our dyno at the shop yet.

Also i am not sure exactly how many miles are on it because the odometer has reset itself, so im guessing around 111,000 or 211,000 and i have no idea if it has ever been rebuilt. It runs very clean without and sputtering and idles fine.

Have any of you guys ever put your cars on a chassis dyno? if so, how much were you putting to the wheels??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kinda depends on what you're going for. Use the search and you'll find a lot of opinions.

I'm doing a Megasquirt conversion on my mildly upgraded M10 and I expect that it will be a little stronger, but more importantly, it will be more reliable.

Other wise, my finger on the pulse of the community says this:

M42 - Reliable and inexpensive, but not a HUGE power gain. About the same work as an S14, but less power. Cheaper than the S14, though.

S14 - Awesome but kind of expensive. Everyone seems REALLY happy with their conversions.....and with the fact that they didn't have to do much fabrication.

M20 - Awesome and not so expensive. There are a lot of these motors around and the parts are still cheap. You'll have to do some fabrication, though. You can have a shop do it, but then you'll pay a lot for labor. Everyone that has this conversion can't seem to believe how fast and reliable their 2002 has become.

Otherwise, you could just rebuild your M10. Give it 9.5:1 pistons and a ported head.

Additionally, what's your diff ratio? If you have a 3.64:1, then you might consider a 3.9 or 4.11. Just remember to get the matching speedometer to go with it!

Good luck!

I just put a 3.91 from an E21 in it two weeks ago. I didn't realize you had to get a different speedo??

i guess realistically what my budget includes is just a rebuild of my stock M10. with 9:5:1 compression, how much power do you gain?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

check out Metric Mechanic 2400 Rally engine at $6495, or smaller for less. MetricMechanic.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

rebuild your M10, that is really best bang for your buck. you will get more power than an m42 and will be around the same price.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah a nicely built m10 is sounding very nice right now. and i would love to put someting bigger in it, but the time it would take to fabricate shit is kind of unappealing. i hate being without it.

Everyone who has built one-- how much (round numbers) did it cost you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
yeah a nicely built m10 is sounding very nice right now. and i would love to put someting bigger in it, but the time it would take to fabricate shit is kind of unappealing. i hate being without it.

Everyone who has built one-- how much (round numbers) did it cost you

I have built 2002 engines for as little as $1200 before. Of course I did not rebore the engine and reused the pistons to save money.No fancy cams or performance parts for that price. Just new rings, bearings, oil pump, water pump and gaskets. The engine ran fine for many years after word. Of course on the other extreme I've spend just $2,000 redoing a Korman stage II head with all new parts before (in 1997 $). I'd say the range for an engine rebuild is $1,200-5,000 if you do the work yourself.

Check with your local machine shop on rates for engine boring, engine head rebuilds etc. If you have to re-bore the block, polish the crank and totally rework the head it could get expensive, but if you do the disassembly and reassemble yourself should not run over $2500 if you bargain hunt the new parts you need, and believe me you will need to look around for the best prices for parts. You will also need to decide if you replace eveything with new or re-use some parts. For heads I'd suggest buying all new rockers and rocker shafts. Valves can be re-used unless burnt or damaged, guides are worth replacing, being they're cheap.

If you've never built and engine before you need to make a decision on how good your mechanic skills are. If you assemble the engine yourself you need to make sure it's done right. If in doubt you may wish to pay someone to do it for you. I find if you can read a shop manual and have good mechanical skills, assembling an engine correctly should be in your ability, but be aware, if it goes south, you have no one to blame but yourself and it could be an expensive lesson! ( Remember to budget money for clutch, engine tranny mounts and hoses.)

Of course you could just buy a good used 2002 engine for $500 and slap it in and save good money.

I have to ask, is your engine really that tired? Have you checked the basics? Compression, timing and fuel delivery? If not maybe your engine is just fine. Ignition timing off 10 deg advanced or retarded can make a HUGE diffrence in performance. I once bought a car the owner though the engine was going bad, only to drive it home re-time the engine correctly and gain 40 hp!

WH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.