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Engine question

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Guest Anonymous

Right I have the engine and just got some mahle 9-5-1 pistons my question is what parts do I need to order up for a full engine re-build?

And what do I need to do to all of the other parts for example balancing the rods and the crank.

If it worth lightning any of it?

I’m hoping for upper 150bhp but would love 170ish

Oh and I forgot to mention I got to mention I got a pair of reconditioned solex 40's

Any help would be most appreciated.

p.s. is there a trick to getting the crank out?

Regards James

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A. Crankshaft main bearings

B. Crankshaft rod bearings

C. Oil pump

D. Oil pump chain

E. Freeze plugs

F. Timing chain

G. Timing chain guide rail

H. Timing chain tension rail

I. Timing chain piston & spring

J. Pistons (includes rings & pins)

K. Valves (intake & exhaust)

L. Valve guides (late style w/viton seals)

M. Valve springs

N. Cam gear

O. Rocker arms

P. Rocker shafts

Q. Rocker shaft springs, washers, clips, adj. eccentrics & eccentric hardware)

R. Camshaft

S. (Correct) Cutting ring head gasket

T. Paper (not cork) oil pan gasket

U. All seals, gaskets (Elring or OEM equivalents)

V. New hardware complete (bolts, nuts and washers)

Machine Shop Labor Performed:

A. All rotating parts balanced – these include the crankshaft, flywheel, clutch pressure plate, pistons, connecting rods, and crankshaft pulley

B. Crankshaft* micro-polished and oil holes chamfered additionally if necessary

(only standard crankshafts are used in our rebuilds, we NEVER grind a crank

or use oversize bearings)

C. Connecting rods re-bushed and resized (new rod bolts and nuts used)

D. Block is cleaned, checked, and bored for new pistons. (correct hone pattern for each specific manufacture/composition of piston ring)

E. Block is decked (along with lower timing cover)

F. Cylinder head pressure tested* (Late model castings are used to provide the

longevity that we require for your complete satisfaction)

G. Valve guides installed, precision hone

H. Valve job (precision grind)

I. Cyl. head surfaced (minimal to make perfectly flat) along with upper timing cover

J. Weld and surface cylinder head where mechanical fuel pump/fuel pump rod were drilled and tapped

Remainder of additional labor to complete engine:

A. Clean and prep block for paint, paint engine block

B. Install freeze plugs

C. Check crank and rod bearings for clearance

D. Assemble cylinder head

E. Prep and paint upper & lower timing covers, rear crankshaft seal housing,

valve cover, oil filter housing

F. Clean and prep oil pan for paint, paint oil pan

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Guest Anonymous

how do i clean up the cylinder head i though of bead blasting it. is there any tricks to painting the block?

Regards James

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Guest Anonymous

how do i clean up the cylinder head i though of bead blasting it. is there any tricks to painting the block?

Regards James

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dear Scott in N.H. - I think you forgot a BMW REPAIR MANUAL,

AND a copy of AUTO MECHANICS 101 text book.

After reading Mr.Nutter's statements me thinks your jumping ahead a tad.

Excellent to-do list though.

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Guest Anonymous

i have someone that is going to build it i just need to get the parts and decide what i am going to do to it and then it is up to the engine builder.

Regards James

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Soda blast the cylinder head. Use a bead blast cabinet but run the hopper with baking soda. Baking soda will disolve so is not attricious to moving components.

I acid dipped my head, but the lads normally soda blast them.

Painting block. De-grease with safety klean or the like in a degrease tank. Slam the block into a hot wash tank with a detergent such as foam-0, leave it washing for an hour. Dry it off with an air line. Whilst it is still warm throw some hammerite at it.

For what it is worth, I wouldn't do 10% of the list that scott left. Whilst that is technically correct, the engine just doesn't warrent that kind of expense. Hell, the works Subaru engines only get about 25% of that list done.

Cheers,

Glen.

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when you're having the head reworked, have the late style valve guides installed (from the E30 M10 engines) so that you can use the later--and much improved valve stem seals. Most M10 oil smoke comes from worn guides/seals, and the newer design seals are much longer-lived.

cheers

mike

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With all due respect, with the setup you have described and presuming you have a good rebuild and a blueprinted and balanced motor, your expectation should be ~130-140HP at the crank for this motor. If you have someone do some true magic on the head, or go to a well set up EFI with direct ignition system, you might see 150 HP. 170 HP is in the province of a race motor with a radical cam, big carbs, much higher compression (read: not street gas...), headers, etc. Or, forced induction.

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No, not on 9.5:1 and 40 solex's. The 40 won't really flow enough cfm to produce over 135hp irrespective of what cam etc you put in, it just won't let enough air through. Knock the inside out, keep the butterfly and put in four injector bosses. The 40 bore will flow enough for 180hp. If you are going to keep the 40's try and get 36mm chokes and then knife edge the butterflies and slim the shafts.

You might want to think about mapping the alternator and running electric ancs. A sure way of getting free hp. Leccy water pump, leccy fan.

Just to say. Why are you worrying about cleaning the engine up? Your engine builder will have all the equipment to do that. And to be honest he will probably clean the engine up himself even if you have already done it as the last thing you want is an engine to let go from debris, it tarnishes your name so you do it as a matter of course.

Another method, which some of the better motorsport teams use, are big ultrasonic tanks. But we never had much success with them.

Cheers,

Glen.

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Guest Anonymous

Im so confused and im thinking is it going to be worth the hassel? this is my first car and I just want a bit more poke.

Do you know any good engine builders?

Any idea of cost?

The reson i asked about how to paint it is because one person said he could put it together if i get all the parts ready to fit.

The other option is sell the car and get something else.

Regards James

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Where abouts are you? I know of several engine builders in the Banbury area (ahem, don't tell my boss).

I really would ignore the post about replacing valves etc, replacing crank if scratched etc. The car/engine isn't worth it. Change the rockers shafts, replace any cracked rockers (they crack across the bottom), bore it out, change the cam, replace the shells and regrind crank if needed, sling it together.

Don't balance it. Measure up the cylinder head cc's if you want. Just sling it together. If you are happy with 130hp, get your cam reground by autosprint in brum, sling on the 40's with the std 34mm venturi's. No need to port the head if this is all you are after. Skim the head though to get some realistic compression (about 10.5 - 11:1, I generally run 10.75 on 250deg cams).

My friend charges 15pounds an hour. Generally about 400pounds labour for a rebuild. But he is a WRC engine builder and insists on plastigauging the crank and oval checking the bores etc (still can't work out why as he can't do anything about the results). He'll clean the block himself (has his own cleaning equipment). But he is in the process of moving house, so it'll be a few weeks before he can bo operational again.

About 60quid to get the block bored, 40quid for the crank reground. Can cc the head for free. Engine builders get discount on the machining as they pass a bit through the engineering shops (whether that discount is handed on to the customer...).

If you can get the block to Banbury/Bicester I'll clean it for you at work after hours. FOC. But that offer is a short term one as I leave my job 30th March.

Cheers,

Glen.

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Guest Anonymous

do you have an email address i can contact you on ?

Regards James

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