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djkindt

Quick brake question

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Is it necessary to turn the rotors when just changing the pads? The brakes don't shudder at all now, so I don't think they're warped. Thanks,

Dylan

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It's helpful to scuff them up with some sandpaper-

I've found that they may squeek more on the 2nd set of pads than they did on the first.

Also, don't turn 'em, replace 'em. They're almost as cheap as

the cost of turning them, and they're none too thick to begin with...

hth,

t

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more like 'replace the rotors with pads'

MEASURE THE THICKNESS of the rotors

the "MIN. THICKNESS" is clearly stamped into the

'hat' portion of every rotor, plainly visable from the out side with a wheel off and maybe alittle sanding to remove dirt.

'turning 'rotors is dead. By the time you machine town - AND machine both to the EXACT same thickness - your below the MIN. THICKNESS spec

uneven rotor surface (rust, pitting, and grooves like on an Old Record - remember those?) will result in poor brake with new flat pads. Think about the two surfaces and how they grip.

Now , if you have minor (like a New CD) grooves, and both rotors measure the SAME - in excess of the MIN. THICKNESS - jam da pads in and run.

...BRAKES BY Lee up-North

16-2738108.JPG

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Okay, thanks everybody.

I think I'm convinced that I need to just buy new rotors. I've had cars that I put brand new rotors on, and when it was all back together, the car shuddered like crazy.

The shop said, "yeah sometimes you need to turn even brand new rotors..." What's all that about? Thanks!

Dylan

Also, any tips or things to look out for when I'm under there would be appreciated. I'm also replacing the rear shoes (but I'm not going to buy new drums).

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the rotors are crap, or there is slop in the suspension/steering. Get BMW rotors rather than Lowest Bidder Pacific Rim Good Enough clones.

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I'd like to get OEM bmw ones, but I just can't afford it. I'm in college and everything I ever do to any of my cars is done with extreme budget limitations. I work full time at night just so I can pay for school.

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