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Quick brake question


djkindt

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It's helpful to scuff them up with some sandpaper-

I've found that they may squeek more on the 2nd set of pads than they did on the first.

Also, don't turn 'em, replace 'em. They're almost as cheap as

the cost of turning them, and they're none too thick to begin with...

hth,

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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more like 'replace the rotors with pads'

MEASURE THE THICKNESS of the rotors

the "MIN. THICKNESS" is clearly stamped into the

'hat' portion of every rotor, plainly visable from the out side with a wheel off and maybe alittle sanding to remove dirt.

'turning 'rotors is dead. By the time you machine town - AND machine both to the EXACT same thickness - your below the MIN. THICKNESS spec

uneven rotor surface (rust, pitting, and grooves like on an Old Record - remember those?) will result in poor brake with new flat pads. Think about the two surfaces and how they grip.

Now , if you have minor (like a New CD) grooves, and both rotors measure the SAME - in excess of the MIN. THICKNESS - jam da pads in and run.

...BRAKES BY Lee up-North

16-2738108.JPG

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Okay, thanks everybody.

I think I'm convinced that I need to just buy new rotors. I've had cars that I put brand new rotors on, and when it was all back together, the car shuddered like crazy.

The shop said, "yeah sometimes you need to turn even brand new rotors..." What's all that about? Thanks!

Dylan

Also, any tips or things to look out for when I'm under there would be appreciated. I'm also replacing the rear shoes (but I'm not going to buy new drums).

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