Massive rear brakes - update on GB

[M2002Evo]

Hi Lee,

I'm in for the kit in gold anodised finish, but will need to wait for the spot caliper bracket before i can make payment. Would be good to see the complete set up with NDL caliper, rotor, bracket, and spot caliper mounted on the subframe.

Drop me an email when all is ready for shipping.

Thanks

Divyesh

[Lee]

Hi everyone.

The initial project for the rear kit was about a race kit. Which means big vented rotors, lightweight 4 pot calipers and no ebrake. This is exactly what the kit will be. 15 sets have been produced and payments are currently being taken. US checks or Canadian currency Paypal. Nonetheless, to accomodate a few interested parties who want an ebrake, I will develop and optional ebrake system. There is no photo or final ebrake developped yet as I am still gauging the most efficient system. I suggest to start getting the race kit, and then the optional ebrake kit. That ebrake kit will be a bracket (sliders) for the spot caliper and a small bracket for the cable. Spot calipers are about $57usd each. Brackets will be about $50usd for the set.

Here is an idea of the direction for the ebrake.

http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/drivetrain/discbrakes/installation_ebrake.htm

I suggest that everyone gets the main kit first, and then waits another month for the ebrake.

Lee

[Lee]

Here is a look of what I just got to pick-up.

This is a new anodizing shop I am working with now. No more headaches because of scratches or marks. But being a different shop, coulours will vary a bit, but honestly, it is for the better. Plain (silver) is just as before. Gold is more like magnesium (paler than front hats and not too shiny). And I also have a draker silver that looks like raw titanium. Not as dark as Gun Metal but very tastefull. Those with front black hats can go with that colour.

Here is a shot at the hats. Some are rear 2002, some are front e30 Race and some are front e30 Sport.

Currently I have 5 silver sets, 5 gold sets, 4 Titanium and a spare raw set that can be kept raw aluminum or anodized any colour if I end up in a bind.

[Lee]

I finally received the last parts of the puzzle. Those mounts are magnificient one-piece machined steel. They will be extremely stiff. In order to move the caliper inward to clear most wheels, I had to go too those expensive mounts. They cost literraly 4 times what was initially planned...

I received the mounts this morning and started packing kits. I made enough parts for 15 complete kits, but counted 30 left mounts and... zero right mounts. Please allow me to start crying. Okay. I am over it. So, I called the shop. After a few apologies, they promised I would get the right hand mounts next week... I will get back later during the weekend, I need to chill out. Thanks for your understanding.

[Lee]

Hi everyone. All parts are in, plated and I already boxed 4 kits that were prepaid. I will obviously hold the price for those who have prepaid, but all new orders will be hiked by $40usd as some parts ended requiring expensive machining to make that kit work 100%.

Basically, the heat shield that holds the rear drums must be removed. Most people will also get rid of the lower shock pin, weld the thick spacer, and use the supplied longer bolts.

15 of those kits have been produced and they are the only ones for this year. The ebrake mechanism will be an option, but will not be ready before a month.

Enjoy the picture of what has taken 3 months in the making, and lots of nervous breakdowns.

[Lee]

For those who wonder how the whole thing works together, here is a quick overview.

Face of the rotors. Bolts must be installed in the reverse position. Apply Loctite on the threads.

Because the mount is so recessed in the rotor, buttonhead bolts had to be used to clear the caliper mount.

Hammer out the old shock pin, weld the 15mm spacer, slide the new 10mm x 80, and bolt the caliper mount, using the same threaded holes as the ones used to secure the original backing plate. I highly recommend that the thick washer be WELDED to the lower tab, and not simply slid on the bolt. Welded will be stronger, especially if you run coil-overs.

Time to silde the hat onto the hub (not shown), bolt the caliper, and bolt the shock. Voilà. It took 3 months to find the proper solution. I don't mind showing the details of that kit, because I know it will cost the copier more to duplicate. He, he...

[M2002Evo]

Lee,

I'm have a few problems with the installation of the rear brake kit. My problem is with the caliper mounting bracket. The caliper mounting bracket wont fit inside the rotor hat, that is top two corners of the mounting bracket touches the inner edge of the rotor hat/disc. I will reassemble and take some pictures so you have a clearer understanding of the clearance problem with the caliper mounting bracket.

just for information I have the rear brake kit for the 2002 and i'm using Billet NDL calipers.

Kind regards

Divyesh

[70roundtail02]

Lee were all the kits spoken for or do you have any left?