Jump to content

s14 Conversion: Rack & Pinion v's 2002 steering box


Recommended Posts

Hi,

Some of you people (Lee Vuong, Nick Vyse, TJW) may know that i'm undertaking a complete rebuild of my 74' 2002tii and fitting an s14 conversion using a rebuilt 260bhp 2.5L Evo 3 Engine. I've now come to a critical point in the rebuild when the engine and bodyshell are both due to be completed by Feb 07 and both need to be reunited.

Rack & Pinion v's 2002 steering box

I've been digesting the various discussions on the forum about R&P conversion using the e21 steering rack, Ford Pinto or CRX Honda rack. I also know of two s14 conversion that are still using the original steering box one being Colin Gallies 2002 Evo 3 car.

I'm at two minds about which way to go. Should I bother with the headache of converting to R&P or have a exhaust header made for the conversion. I read in one discussion thread about a Schnitzer 2002 16v with an e21 R&P.

I should add that im on the side of staying with the original 2002 box but want to know whether the conversion would add any value to the cars handling as the original set up excellent.

Can anyone offer some help or advice. Also if you have a Schnitzer 16v 2002 i'd be interested in whether you have kept the original steering box or fitted a e21 conversion.

Kind regards

Divyesh

Link to post
Share on other sites

one thing you should know Div - you'll need a custom-made manifold even with a rack conversion. It's just an easier manifold to make.

If I were to do it all again I'd probably stick with the steering box - at least you know there's no engineering left for you to do to make it steer properly. The beneifts of a rack over the box are marginal if the box is in tip-top condition.

Nick (still not fitted my shorter steering arms and sorted out a tiny tight spot in the column).

Link to post
Share on other sites
If I were to do it all again I'd probably stick with the steering box.

actually that's not strictly true - I'd use a LHD car, even the UK. Problem solved - there's no real downside in the UK as the country's one big traffic jam anyway!

Link to post
Share on other sites

In my mind as the major consideration in the conversion from box to r&p was power, not steering values.

If you are going to put a high power engine in your chassis then all roads lead to the factory header and pipes (group A, group N. etc.) There may well be an aftermarket S14 header/pipes but I havn't heard of one, but making one to fit around the 'box' is not going to give you the best use of your pound/dollar.

I did it on a race car and it works, and the engine is great, very free flowing as the dyno says, by cutting away all the steering mounts you get a lot of free space and you can move the engine back, and on a right hand drive you can move the engine over to compensate for driver lard ass effect, but on a road car where you will rarely use max power, as Nick says, it is not worth the effort, stay with the box.

I should add doing the conversion is not difficult, it is a mind thing, make a decision and get the angle grinder to it, one cut and your on the way.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Divyesh,

Is your car a RHD one?

I'm doing my conversion at the moment to a RHD car and for the moment I am keeping the steering relatively stock with one exception.

I'm planning on using the joints from an early model toyota people mover to replace the rubber discs and coupling between the steering box and the steering column.The spline is the same.

Alan M who occasionally visits the board has done this with his and he has 1 3/4 inch primaries for his header. The car below is Richard Greshams and this is the sort of arrangement youend up with.

the second pic is of Alan Moore's car with the toyota parts that are just visible.

post-863-13667572854748_thumb.jpg

post-863-13667572855741_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks TJW, but i'm no the side of Nick still whu bother with the added stress and anxiety not to mention cost when you can stay with the factory proven and robust set-up. I admit its tempting but when you have spent what I have so far to start to question your sanity *&^%$£....

If their is a factory Grp A or N header that will fit then please point me in that direction....

Link to post
Share on other sites

Skippy, just had an after thought. Their is a reason for having the rubber coupling, its to reduce vibration transmitting up through the steering box to the steering wheel. if you remove the coupling dont you increase the amount of vibration on the steering wheel????

just asking the question to clarify understanding...

Link to post
Share on other sites
Skippy, just had an after thought. Their is a reason for having the rubber coupling, its to reduce vibration transmitting up through the steering box to the steering wheel. if you remove the coupling dont you increase the amount of vibration on the steering wheel????

just asking the question to clarify understanding...

rubber is to there to shear in a front end impact and not ram the steering sheel in your face. It's not a vibro thing

Link to post
Share on other sites

Richard's car above is a bored and stroked M10 powered racing machine that has been very heavily modified everywhere, and has used a different universal to mine, although perhaps it is from another Toyota. Saying that though his car may not even have a BMW steering column.

Mine is an S14 powered car with the steering coupler being replaced with two halves of an '86 Toyota Tarago steering universal. There are 4 in total on a Tarago, but the joints to use that have the least wear are at the top where the steering wheel is adjustable, the lower ones are generally flogged out.

No other BMW has a universal that will fit the 2002 column. Of course the major reason for the change was to fit some pipes in, and that the uni when insulated will handle a lot more heat than the original canvas.

I also installed a Willwood pedal box to move the master cylinders inside also to get other vital components away from the heat, and to give adjustable brake bias.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nick, what did you do with your E12 MC to move it away from the header before you converted to an e21 R&P set up??

I currently have a new E21 MC sitting on my work bench waiting to go on the car along with Lee Vuong's Massive front brake kit and Wilwood calipers/discs.

Link to post
Share on other sites

rubber is to there to shear in a front end impact and not ram the steering sheel in your face. It's not a vibro thing

My car was hit on the left front wheel needing a new guard and door, The rubber disc was fine, but the steering box needed to be rebuilt. I know this is different to a heavy front on crash, but i always thought that there was another fitting stopping the steering column from moving forward or back (up or down) towards the driver in an impact.

Thanks Alan, I forgot to mention that its the upper parts you need. I got some the other day, easy to obtain.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.