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mikebikerad

WATER OR ELECTRIC 32/36?

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I'm driving a 75 2002. Its got the duel 3232's solex and Im wondering which carb I can use. A water choke or an electric choke weber. Can I use either?

thanks-

mike

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I have waters don't care for them much, hate electric, love manual. The manuals you can set and walk beside the car as it puts along (old high school trick) not really safe or advisable but REALLY cool.

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You can always convert one to the other. The main body on the water and electric choke models are the same, its only the actual choke that is different. So if you fit the water choke (it can use the same water pipes from the solex) and you done like it. Hit the bone yards and grab a electric choke to screw on the side (and plug the water pipes). The body on the manual choke model is very different and can only be used as a manual choke. I prefer a manual choke, as you control the revs, and when its needed. TMHO. Beaner7102

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I like all of them. The electric is frustrating when the car is warm and you shut it off for 5-15 minutes like when you stop at the store. The choke thinks the car is cold when you restart and you get a high idle until you blip it or the element warms up again. The water one stays warm and idle is normal. Other than that, they are both good.

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I have the electric choke on my 32/36 and it works well. One spade electrical connection and you are all set up. No mussing about with coolent hoses.

I don't understand all of the animosity over the cold start. On mine, the cold start/high idle only engages if you depress the throttle once prior to starting the car. This is as described in the Hayes Weber manual. If you don't depress the throttle once prior to starting you don't get the cold start/high idle. Perhaps I have some special 32/36 carb (not likely).

Simon

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yeah, and the electric seems to match the engine's warm- up curve better.

The water lags the head temperature a lot, and so overchokes it...

imho,

t

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if you don't poke the throttle, you also don't let the choke plate close. No poke, no fast idle, no choke. If your car starts fine under those conditions, I wonder whether you need a choke at all.

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Guest Anonymous

If you know how to set them up properly they work awesome. I have mine so they reduce to rpm just at the right time. Rpm's are never over 1000 and will idle smooth down to about 300. Works for me....steve

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There was a good discussion of this recently, but I can't find the thread.*

Manual choke: If you understand what the choke does, if you like fiddling, and if you are the only driver of the car, this gives you the best control. If any normal person uses your car, this is a bad choice. Normal people don't understand it and don't want to understand it. (I had a manual on a '68 Volvo P144S, and I loved it.)

Electric choke: This is the simplest. It's crude in the sense that its warmup cycle is mainly a function of how long the ignition circuit has been on, rather than how cold the engine is.

Water choke: This tracks the engine temperature and so, in principle, the engine's need for choke and a faster idle speed.

If I remember correctly, the Weber 32/36 has (more or less) independent adjustments for choke plate angle, fast idle speed, and normal idle speed. If the idle speed is too fast at cold start, you can unwind the fast idle screw a bit without affecting the choke plate angle or the warmed-up idle speed. (Yeah, I know about the stepped cam, but its effect goes in the other direction.)

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

*What's up with the Forum Search? It gives a metric ton of false positives and false negatives.

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my weber 32/36 water chokes works slick. hit the pedal once, start and idles at about 1000 briefly then a couple hundred rpm more... then after a while up to where I set it at about 1700. car's all nice and warm when I get in.

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