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Can Somebody Please Help Me to Feel Better About This? LONG


Biscuit3

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I know I've been a little indecisive about Karl's engine over the past two weeks. Thank you to everyone who responded to my WTB Cylinder Head thread. I'm not really getting anywhere with the head situation however I did get a good offer yesterday from a guy in Australia (Dave), but like I said, I can't really decide on what to do and it would be a gamble anyway buying a head at this time as all I know that I need for sure is a new head and piston rings and still don't know about pistons or even the engine block.

I originally wanted to keep the engine as I didn't want to take it out and have to change the engine number for Karl and then get embarrassed down the track when people looked and saw that the chassis and the engine number differed. Plus I wanted to do most of the work myself so I could learn about these things and do them in the future if I ever needed to. So, today I set out calling all the Euro spare parts places in Sydney, and yes, all of them! I got only one quote from a place that boyfriend is connected to - $650 for a reconditioned 121 head, exchange. Now, seeing as my cylinder head is done like a dinner, there was going to be no "exchange", only a "melt down". I got a call a few hours later from the same place saying it was for a 1.8L not 2.0L, but I don't know how that can be, I have a feeling boyfriend said something as he told me $650 was too much, so they're probably telling me this because boyfriend didn't want me to buy it, I dunno. So alas, I can't find a cylinder head locally within 60km of me.

Hence the situation I'm in now. The BMW club of my state has a 1975 2002 engine for $500, however, the condition of it is unknown and there is no way of testing it without buying it and of course, all sales are final. On the other hand, the same Euro spare parts place I called today who claimed they had the head, has a 1.8L M10 that is EFI - $500, compression tested and leak checked, 100%. The only problems I have are:

1) It's a 1.8L engine

2) Is there such thing as a 1802tii emblem?

3) My tattoo says "2002"

Has anybody else put one of these in their car? Is it ethical that I have to change the emblem? Will Karl perform better with an engine like this or will it be about the same as a carburettored 2.0L? This is really bugging me because if the stock engine comes out, Karl will literally no longer be Karl. I would love to think about putting one of these engines in and they aren't going to run out as they have 10 of them in stock, I just don't know how much work is involved and what other parts I will need, do I need an electronic ignition, etc? It's exciting though to think that I will have such a big change before xmas.

"My dad was right, it was cheaper just to buy a new car."

'75 Golf Yellow Automatic 2002 with Weber 32/36 DGAV - "Karl"

railwayKarl-1.jpg

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Guest Anonymous

I would think you would what to stick with the 2.0 ltr head. All 1800's were 4 door hence I don't belive there is a badging for 1802, so to reinterate, stick with a 2 ltr and it's 2002 all the way baby......cheers, steve

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Ash, for $650 you could probably get your head fixed. Ask your BF what is a good price for a 2nd hand head, but it may still need valve new guides and seals. The 1.8L EFI motor is from an E30, yes they are an M10 block, but you need the full eletronics from the host car to run the EFI or use a 'build your own' like MegaSquirt. Try looking for an E21 head (320 not 318 - M10 block 1975-1979) the early 320 were carbed, the later 320i were CIS injection. Get the carbed one, or you will need an electric fuel pump (no hole in the head for the fuel pump). You will also need to swap out the drive shaft for the dizzy (they spin in the opposite direction on an E21) or get the dizzy with the head. If you want to keep your engine number, thats easy just keep your block and replace rings, pistons, bearings etc. The engine number is on the block - NOT the head so if you do head work it will not affect Karls numbers.

There is no need to change you tat or the badge on your car, my 1602 has a 2L motor in it, but I'm not about to change the badge.

I hope this helps you. Beaner7102

1971 - 2002 RHD VIN 1653940. Agave (stock with Pertronix & 32/36 Weber) - "Cactus"

1972 - 1602 RHD VIN 1554408. Fjord (with 2L motor, 5spd & LSD - Weber 40/40 to come) - "Bluey"

1984 - E30 318i VIN WBAAK320208722176 - stock daily driver

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If you're not changing the bottom end, your displacement will still be more like 2.0 (stock 2002 was 1990 ccs). So unless you're swapping the whole motor, or putting in the crank and arms from the 1.8 ltr, you can still be a 2.0 ltr 2002... So its likely your tattoo would still be right! ;-) (I have no idea if the 1.8 head works with everything else in your motor, BTW.)

I know shipping costs are unreal, but you can likely source an E12 head from the states for WAY less than you're getting quoted down under.

HTH

Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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It depends on whether you quickly need Karl back on the road or not.

I haven't read your other thread, but have you taken the head off already? I'd go ahead and pull it off and see what you're dealing with. Maybe some mysteries will be revealed. Or maybe you'll get started on the rebuild.

My top choice would be to rebuild the engine myself, as long as you're sure you can do it yourself.

If you don't have the time to do that, just heave the old engine behind the barn. If you ever want the numbers to match in the future, and you have the time, dig it up and rebuild it.

I wouldn't go to a 1.8L engine, unless you're extremely desperate. That just seems wrong in many ways.

Maybe its from a 318i (E30)? That sounds like a whole lot of work and hassle to get the EFI system working. Computers? ugh....

I'd go check out that 75 2.0 engine and do some investigative work on it. Make them convince you its worth the money. After all, they do want 500 bucks. Make them work for it.

Also dig for more sources for engines.

In the meantime, I'd go ahead and start tearin the current engine apart and see whats in there.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Beaner, my current head is corrodid, it cannot be reconditioned, so I either need a new head or new engine. Like I said before, even thinking about getting another head would be a gamble as I'm not too sure about the condition of the other things until I remove it. I am fully aware of the heads that I should be looking for - 121, E12, E21, or 318. However, the 318 as I was told, had the electric fuel pump which needs to be drilled out, so that is a last resort and I'm not too fond of buying a new set of pistons either just in case they aren't flat top or they come up warped.

I had a feeling I would need a lot of electronic stuff for the swap. But lucky for me, that can all be taken care of as it comes with the engine. To tell you the truth, I cannot understand why it is so hard to find 2002 engines.

"My dad was right, it was cheaper just to buy a new car."

'75 Golf Yellow Automatic 2002 with Weber 32/36 DGAV - "Karl"

railwayKarl-1.jpg

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Its hard to find 02 engines here in Oz because there were not that many 02 imported, and it would seem that those that did make it, are still on the road. Keep looking, you will find what you need. I know some one who may be able to help you if you get stuck - email me for his email address and ph, he is in Vic. Beaner7102

1971 - 2002 RHD VIN 1653940. Agave (stock with Pertronix & 32/36 Weber) - "Cactus"

1972 - 1602 RHD VIN 1554408. Fjord (with 2L motor, 5spd & LSD - Weber 40/40 to come) - "Bluey"

1984 - E30 318i VIN WBAAK320208722176 - stock daily driver

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I think what I really need is a time machine. Set it for May 1975. That was when Karl was made. There I'll find him and take care of him properly. Some people are animals!

"My dad was right, it was cheaper just to buy a new car."

'75 Golf Yellow Automatic 2002 with Weber 32/36 DGAV - "Karl"

railwayKarl-1.jpg

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I dont understand how your boyfriend who is a mechanic is so blase about it all... surely with his connections he could find something cheap and get it reconditioned and fit it for you.

I had a corroded head - nothing too major,and it cost me about $450 to have the whole thing reco'd - it got a bit of porting of the exhaust side and a tidy up at the same time. It cost me $740 for them to remove, repair, refit and tune after I did a head gasket 2 years ago... and they weren't even mates rates.

Buy a whole car for $1500 and pull it to bits and pull the motor and part the rest out on eBay... Plenty of people have come across decent finds.

It's all about situation management.

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boyfriend

I have more to bitch about, but it's not 02 related, so I'm sure someone would complain to Steve K. that it should be "off topic".

"My dad was right, it was cheaper just to buy a new car."

'75 Golf Yellow Automatic 2002 with Weber 32/36 DGAV - "Karl"

railwayKarl-1.jpg

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Whatever you do, just hang onto the old block.

Then, later, when you have cash and time, you can get

Karl's 'true' engine put toghether right.

In the meantime, a 'loaner' heart transplant won't do

any lasting damage.

I've done this before: I don't want to be 2002-less for months,

so I'll throw a parts- car motor in to stay on the road, and then

rebuild the motor in my own sweet time.

It usually ends up cheaper, because I have time to shop around,

and it ALWAYS works better because I take my time, make sure everything's

right, and trial assemble the motor.

It takes the stress out of it, 'cause a motor swap's an easy day job.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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