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mech distrib cutting out

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I'm still having cutout problems after 5500+ rpm runs

it's not fuel, confirmed today, it's the distributer, do mechanical distributers have a rev limiter built in?

It cuts out until the rpm's drop down to idle, or it stalls, then it runs fine again unless i push to 5500rpm for a sustained time

could worn out points do this?

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limiter. It is easy to spot. The rev limiting rotor is more square than a normal rotor. I am not sure if one ever came in limiting at 5500 rpms though.

A worn out distributor shaft will cause a cut-out situation. May want to try a new distributor.

As Z noted a defective coil can cause that also.

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here's a couple pics of the distrib, it's being replaced by ford edis later this year

DSC_1180.JPG

DSC_1182.JPG

are there points down under there? I'm not really sure how a mech advance distributer works

the number on the rotor is 1234 332, followed by 208 6600

there's a white spring loaded "thing" on the top of the rotor

the distrib has the number 0231188002 stamped on the side

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Yes its your rotor. Replace it with the non revlimiting version.

They are available for pennies from the usual sources.

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I expected to see points when I opened it up, shouldnt they be right there on top?

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ohh one more question

is the rev limiter that white spring loaded thing in the rotor? If so I will epoxy the thing solid and see if that fixes it

I dont want to waste money on a new rotor if that fixes it, it's all getting replaced in a few months with a crank trigger setup

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I expected to see points when I opened it up, shouldnt they be right there on top?

thats a pertronix ignition. THe little ring is a magnet and the thing with teh wires is a pickup. So you are pointless!! ;)

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the 'cut-out' rev limiting rotor should not switch off till more like 5700 rpm. You should not be reving your motor above that any way.

Replace the cut out rotor with a standard rotor for just pennies. If your worried about spending $10 for a rotor that will last 50,000 miles - your driving the wrong car and in the wrong hobby. Sorry.

not adjustable - replace only

DSC_1182.JPG

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the 'cut-out' rev limiting rotor should not switch off till more like 5700 rpm. You should not be reving your motor above that any way.

And as usual, I disagree with CD- don't go much above 6700 or you'll start breaking things in the stock valve train. If you put heavier springs in, 7500 is probably OK, but there's no real reason to go there unless you have done some other work to the car...

t

Engines are disposable. Just like income.

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a little bit off topic, but..

I have double valve springs, and aftermarket rocker arms, and a 300 regrind, engine was balanced when everything was installed

that said

I cant figure it out, I removed the rev limiter, but it still cuts out, I checked all the wires, 12v in, 5v out from the resistor to the coil, the wires are kinda thin, how much amperage will a coil pull? It's wired to my rear defroster switch in the dash, turning the feed voltage on/off has no affect

1st/2nd never cut out, 3rd gear going up to 70 will cut out, and it wont run unless I let it drop down to idle, stall, and bump start

Iv'e gone to autozone 3 times for plugs, every time they say "no resistor in these" and there is a friggin resistor, could a double resistor setup be overwhelming the coil? I could put in some non resistor wires

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If your worried about spending $10 for a rotor that will last 50,000 miles - your driving the wrong car and in the wrong hobby.[/size][/color] Sorry.

I tried, they dont have any in stock, so I epoxied the rev limiter so it wont move

it's coming out in 2 months, I'm not buying a new distrib, or rotor just to replace it, I'm switching to a crank trigger setup

it makes no sense, I thought it was fuel first, so I put in a carter pump & new fuel filter, I tested cutting the fuel pump, the rpm guage does not drop to zero.

when the car cuts out, the rpm guage drops all the way to zero, like the distributor is shorting

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I see you have a pertronix, but did you check the wiring used to go to the condenser (should go back to the coil)? FYI, tach is wired in on that circuit. You could have a wire mostly broken inside the sheilding. That black wire tends to get very beat up over time with the amount of heat and movement it deals with.

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I was thinking about rewiring it

the wire seems very thin, dont they pull a bit of amperage to run that coil?

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