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Rear window defroster

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Does anyone have one on their 02 that works? Has anyone repaired one? I would like to get the one in my daughter's 95 to work if possible. Any advice would be appreciated.

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Guest Anonymous

the rear window defogers on these cars are usualy shot by now. The problem is usualy in the heating element in the rear window. To test this, take your volt meter and check for continuity test (ie make sure power is going across). IF your dont get a beep of your meeter then you know the element is bad. The only way to solve this is to replace the rear window with a new one. Lets face it a used one is also 30 years old. Those self stick replacement units that used to be available never worked right. IF the rear window is good then do the usual check for power on the wires and trace it back.

good luck

Me

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I've been wondering the same thing, but not sure how the system works.

I've heard that on newer cars, they're built to still work OK if a few of the wires don't work. But on the old ones, if one wire goes they all quit working.

I'm wondering if I figure out which wires are bad, perhaps I could solder in a jumper wire somehow with the proper resistance, and then maybe the others can work?

Lemme know if I'll set fire to my car. But if not, I'll give it a shot.

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Guest Anonymous

Usualy on these old cars IF you can manage to find the break you would try and run some soder to replace the burnt section. HOWEVER usualy the wire is so deterated that it simply burns when you touch it. the end result is either bending over at the dealer for new rear glass or forgeting about it.

Me

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I have power to mine but too many breaks in the elements. They do make a very expensive conductive paint material (permatex and similar) that repairs breaks... but i have heard this doesn't work or last... the little bottle doesn't have enough to just paint the whole thing.

SO... I'm looking for a small 12volt fan/heater to mount on the back shelf to see if that works... jc whitney has one but i have not committed myself to that yet... still looking around... I figure if the unit I find is no more than 8 amps... which I think is the fuse size for the defroster... I could just hook it up there and use the defroster switch too. If i get around to it, and it is a success, I'll post.

Rob

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Guest Anonymous

(nt)

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My heating elements had breaks. I bought a repair kit that was electrical conducting paint. I tried it several times but could not get it to work. I ended up scraping off all of the heating element with a rasor blade. I ordered a heating element kit from J C Whitney that had stripes with adhesive on them. I laid those down where the old ones had been and intalled the new side connectors. It worked. But my problem is that It doesn't get cold down here so why did I go to so much trouble?

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Really?!... cool, so that is the first I've heard one of those kits working for someone... maybe they have improved them from the past. So you would recommend the one from JC whitney? I haven't looked are there different ones to choose from? which one do you have?

with common wet foggy windows almost year round and occasional frost in the winter it's something I'd use often here. Really it's a saftey item as well. I HATE it when I'm walking or biking to work in the morning and almost get run over because someone has decided they can see fine looking out their little 2 foot square foggy port hole in the front windshield.

thanks

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I got some conductive epoxy from McMaster-Carr to repair one of the connections on my E30M3 rear window. That stuff was NOT cheap. The same company also makes a conductive trace repair pen. It's just like repairing a trace on a PCB. You need to cut and clean both ends, then lay down the repair trace and hope it takes at both ends. Sometimes it works, other times not.

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It didn't occur to me to even look there. I'll give it a try. I found a very expensive patch kit from a Land Rover site (recommended by a co-worker) but I think if I'm going to the trouble then I should go for the total fix.

Thank you for the advice.

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