defective heater valve ??

[Russkcpa]

On my 1973 Tii:

Heat is LUKE WARM at best

Heater valve wire is attached and does function

Both hoses in and out of the valve are warm

Replaced thermostat with 80 degree C

Should I just replace the heater valve?

Is that an easy project for a semi-moron?

Thanks

Russ

[Napes]

Your description makes it sound like the heater valve is ready for a replacement. It's not an easy job for even a brain surgeon, but it's doable. Check the archieves for for an R & R procedure, or spend $16 for a Haynes manual if you don't already have one. It's not what I'd describe as a hard job physically, just more of a delicate nature - there ain't a lot of room in there where the heater valve lives. It may in fact be a good job to begin honing your repair skills. There are a lot harder and more difficult jobs around on our ' 02s, believe me. Good luck.

Bob Napier

[ClayW]

I ran a little hot once and boiled over a bunch of coolant, which in turn allowed very little to make it up to the heater core. Make sure you're toped off and fix any leaks that you find, then warm the car up and turn on the heater.

If your heater valve is worn, it seems like you'd either have absolutely no control over temperature, or you be leaking all over. If the inlet hose to the valve is hot and the outlet is warm or cool, then you might have a problem with the valve. If both sides are warm, then you might not be getting enough heated coolant to the heater core.

If the latter is the case, check for either low coolant or an obstruction in the coolant line to the valve.

If you do end up replacing the valve, be careful not to break the plastic tab that it mounts to on the heater core. They get brittle over time and you have to get a new heater core (or do some careful/odd repair) if it breaks.

Good Luck!

[Beaner7102]

If both inlet and outlet hoses are warm, and the valve moves and does not leak, the valve is not your problem. The heater core is blocked and needs to be flushed. You are best to flush the whole cooling system with some radiator cleaner - Make sure the heater valve is on full. Once you have flushed the whole system, disconect both the hoses for the heater - inlet (at engine block) and outlet (at manifold). Then jam your garden hose in the outlet hose and turn on full (yes outlet hose - you want to back flush the crud) - notice all the crud coming out?? If your heat does not improve after this, you will need to pull the heaterbox and have a shop rod out the rust and crud (new cores are available but big $$$). The write up in FAQ section is good, allow min 3 hrs to pull heater box, R&R it and replace - more of course if a shop is fixing the core. Its not that big a job, done it twice now over 12 years. Good luck with it. Beaner7102