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time to route the fuel system


ash00

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Hey gang,

Now its time to piece together the fuel system--

I went with the in-tank 318 electric fuel pump (thanks BLUNT!!), and plan to go flexible for the feed/return to a hard line. The hardline will extend to the front firewall to a 3 port regulator/ gauge/filter, then to the webers.

Few questions:

-I was thinking about a decent place to route the hard lines. I want them to be away from heat or anything moving, or electrical. I have the rear battery which is on the driver side, so I guess I should be on the passenger side for routing. I was thinking of along the rocker panel- but all it takes is one incorrect push from a pneumatic jack to crimp the line. The tranny tunnel is awkward with the exhaust and driveshaft there. Anybody route it inside, or in the middle of the floorboard?

-I was also planning on using 5/16" OD stainless hardline, but there isn't much compatibility with fittings out there, so I might go 3/8". Has anybody run a 3/8" ID flexible line on the flared outputs of this fuel pump?

I had a heck of a time with my tube bender and stainless hardline over the weekend. Any good recommendations on a good bender?

-It seems Russel has some adaptors that don't require a flare, that convert to a -6AN. I like the assurance of a flare, since I can do away with a crush sleeve or anything. Problem is, my current flaring tool didn't like stainless. Any good recommendations on a good flaring tool?

step 1) fuel system

step 2)...

step 3) profits!

thanks for the help

Aashish

1969 BMW 2002--I gotta finish this damn thing

1987 BMW 325is--S52 Monster

1975 Innocenti Mini 1001-- the most cost dense car ever!

1995 318ti

2004 BMW 330i ZHP

2004 Toyota Tacoma (gotta have something reliable!)--can't live without

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Awww, you're gonna hate this-

ditch the stainless and run aluminum!

I too tried the stainless thing, and it's just too

hard to fabricate. And it gets so brittle

that I wonder if it's really any better...

I ended up silver soldering ends on it,

and I don't like it very much.

Try running along the driver's side of the tunnel, keeping it pretty low.

If you pull the driveshaft, it's not too hard to run it with the brake lines.

Otherwise, do what we do with the race cars,

and run it inside the passenger compartment.

(scary, huh?)

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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My stock vinyl line was inside the passenger area-- so I'm trying to stay away from that!

Aashish

1969 BMW 2002--I gotta finish this damn thing

1987 BMW 325is--S52 Monster

1975 Innocenti Mini 1001-- the most cost dense car ever!

1995 318ti

2004 BMW 330i ZHP

2004 Toyota Tacoma (gotta have something reliable!)--can't live without

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I agree, go w/ the aluminum. I was able to bend the line by hand except for all but the sharpest bends. I ended up putting it on the driver side by the pinch weld. Yes, scary, but isn't that were they put the factory hard line?

Current: 1974 BMW 2002, 2004 VW R32, 2009 Infiniti FX35, & VW Eurovan Camper

Previously: 1970 BMW 2002, 1996 VW GTI, 1984 VW GTI, 1984 GTI

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has anybody had experience with Russel fittings? They have a flareless aluminum adapting fitting. It does away with flaring and crush sleeves. Good: that it does away with flaring, I see an issue with aluminum piping. Bad: hmm....have to see a cutway...

Aashish

1969 BMW 2002--I gotta finish this damn thing

1987 BMW 325is--S52 Monster

1975 Innocenti Mini 1001-- the most cost dense car ever!

1995 318ti

2004 BMW 330i ZHP

2004 Toyota Tacoma (gotta have something reliable!)--can't live without

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Share on other sites

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