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Idler Arm Bushings


granth

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You mean control arm bushings ? Look for dried / loose bushings. remove and drill out rubber then use socket to beat out the rest. Have to make a press to re install. But one things leads to another. If new control arm bushings are needed, most likely other stuff is needed also. Tie rods, center link, ball joints etc etc. Also look carefully check control arms for cracks, and bent areas. Check the mounting bolts too.

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Remove the cotter pin, the castle nut and cap. Turn the castle nut over and thread onto the threaded idler arm. Whack it until the idler arm falls out. If you are living right, the lower bushing will fall out with it.

Use a punch to punch out the top one and the bottom one if it did not fall out.

Make sure you get the metal sleeves off of the idler arm, it almost appears it should stay on there. Also, the blue plastic does stay on the new ones when they are installed.

Idlerare12-04.jpg

If the metal sleeve is stuck on the pitman arm like mine was, use the tried and true formula, soak in a good rust braker upper, heat and whack. Get the plastic sleeve off prior to heat.

I used either channel locks or vice grips to twist the sleeve off.

pitmanarmonidlerarm.jpg

IMG_0366.jpg

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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My castle nut is frozen ....hahaha

Seriously, the castle nut is frozen into my idler arm thread. I took the cotter pin out and tried to turn the nut and it would not move at all, and if I tried any harder I might strip the nut. The intention was to place hypoid or gear oil into the idler arm internals. Would you suggest placing gear oil into the idler arm???? Will it leak out??? Great pics!!!

74tii, 5 Spd, BBK, 320 Rad, Eibach.

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Soak in a good penetrant (PB Blaster, Turn-It or several other good products) for a day or two applying several times

Heat it up real hot

Whack around the stuck nut or bolt while it is still hot

Then turn it while it is still hot

What you are trying to do is break the bond between the rust and the rust.

There are three ways to do this, chemically, heat and shock. This recipe gives you all three.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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Just replace them, the slightest "visual" wear is actually pretty major. I replaced the ones on my tii (they looked ok, a little wear), but the new ones were MUCH tighter. It really tightened the steering up. I used a socket as a drift to get the old bushings out. Not too difficult.... at least on my car.

-Justin
--
'76 02 (USA), '05 Toyota Alphard (Tokyo) - http://www.bmw2002.net

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