WHOA!! Drove with the brake booster disconnected!

[winstontj]

tii MC and plugged vacuum hose! Whoa! was that a treat! TobyB: "takes a hefty foot" to stop the car with stock MC... will be re-inserting that vacuum booster ASAP!

Just exactly how strong is that spring on/in the brake booster? I want to do the delete, and can certanly drive with the stock or something similar if I adjust the size of the MC and the lever arm however this current setup with stock lever arm and tii MC is killer.... no way can I run that as a dd or a track car...

What should I do? (keep in mind the girlfriend needs to be able to drive this car... 5'2"... petite, blonde, she CAN drive but didn't sign up for "a hefty foot" to go fetch the groceries)

[winstontj]

Reconnected all the bits and what a world of difference!!! Oh my oh my... what am I to do...

I really want that thing gone but there's no way I can drive it as is. With the condition of my floors I'd be worried about putting the pedal box through the floor before I locked up all 4.

Again just exactly how strong is that spring inside the booster? How much smaller is the stock MC again?

[Villanuevas_BMW]

I had the same dilema trying to figure out how to supercharge my car. When it came down to it, there was no way I was going to sacrifice brake power for horsepower, its a bad combination. Cant go fast without brakes. Please keep us posted if a solution is found, Thanks!

[Harv]

The spring in the booster is not that strong. The feeling your mainly getting is the wrong ratio of the MC and the brakes. Smaller MC and bigger brakes might help. I think that's why it works for some cars and may not for others.

John

[Tommy]

Yep I can confirm that deleting the booster (spring) does not help that much. Then if you change to smaller master or change the leverage I'm afraid you won't get enough fluid volume or the pedal movement is way too big. I have used smaller booster with quite good result but deleting it and keeping rest of the system was not a success.

Tommy

[Ian]

Check out some of the British car boards. I seem to remember remote master cylinder/booster setups that would allow you to relocate the assembly.

Ian

'76 M2

[trangieboy]

You can buy,new or used, a remote type booster that goes in the brake line somewhere (anywhere).Just run a vacc hose to it.They came OEM on my RHD 2000ti sedan and on an E21 parts car i also have.But they are available new,just ask at a brake shop.

Mal.

[winstontj]

I had the same dilema trying to figure out how to supercharge my car. When it came down to it, there was no way I was going to sacrifice brake power for horsepower, its a bad combination. Cant go fast without brakes. Please keep us posted if a solution is found, Thanks!

NORM... U out there? You're the one who told me about shortening the post between the pedal linkage and the MC. You also said you had an adjustable one in there... What setup did you use? The stock MC's ID is 20.64mm, I'll try that today. The tii's MC is 23.81mm, obviously gotta get rid of that at some point.

Do any other BMW's have smaller bore Master Cylinders??? An Isetta (LOL)...???

20.64 - 23.81

EDIT:

17.46mm = E30 316 (Euro)

19.05mm = E30 318i (USA)

Anyone have an idea as to how I could get my hands on an E30 316 Euro MC??? It's only a one line system but it is a 17.46mm bore which would be as goo as it gets from BMW i have the feeling...

[02Les]

The OEM ATE T 50 Brake Servo/Booster unit is NLA.

Rebuild kits for the same are also NLA.

Walloth & Nesch had rebuilt Servos for sale a while back for like Euro 400 each.

The later E12s used a larger version remote Servo which can be used and may still be available, but be prepared to spend some $$$.

If you do not care for OEM, there are plenty of places that sell remote Boosters.

[winstontj]

I just want to go straight manual brakes. No vacuum line/booster for simplicity and better accuracy for MAP etc. I know it's probably trivial but in my eyes it's much easier to just find the right MC that I'm looking for and increase the leverage arm a bit if I have to. I'm going to look into some volvo MC's today as well as they have provisions for dual lines up front...

[TobyB]

www.tiltonracing.com

www.wilwood.com

It's a project for this winter with the race car-

I'll let you know more as I get time to work

on it.

Keep in mind, too, that different pads are much more/less aggressive.

fwiw,

t

[winstontj]

www.tiltonracing.com

www.wilwood.com

It's a project for this winter with the race car-

I'll let you know more as I get time to work

on it.

Keep in mind, too, that different pads are much more/less aggressive.

fwiw,

t

Went booster-less today with the stock MC, noticably better but no way! My floors aren't the best and I'm worried about putting the pedal box through the floor to stop. I'm going to look into the 316i euro 17mm MC and see how that goes... only problem is that I've got those darn two line Volvo brakes up front... time for some brembos!

What about pads Toby? I'm running whatever Dave Varco sent me with my Volvo calipers and stock/crap aftermarket shoes. I'll switch over to 4Xdisc if I have to but what pads are more aggressive??? I don't care if I have to change pads and oil at the same time...

Just gotta be able to stop

[c.d.iesel]

DO NOT REMOVE THE BRAKE BOOSTER OR ALTER THE ORIGINAL bmw BRAKING SYSTEM IN ANY WAY !

IF YOU DO, IF YOU MUST ,

DO NOT - DO NOT PERMIT ANOTHER EARTHLING TO DRIVE YOUR DEATH TRAP.

KILLING YOURSELF IS O.K. - BUT NOT SOMEONE ELSE

AND IF THE CAR IS SOLD - RESTORE TO ORIGINAL BMW BRAKE SYSTEM.

[Harv]

Deleting the booster will not change the MAP readding. as a matter a fact, the booster may actually smooth it out a little.

I think having a booster is the way to go.

John

[winstontj]

DO NOT REMOVE THE BRAKE BOOSTER OR ALTER THE ORIGINAL bmw BRAKING SYSTEM IN ANY WAY !

IF YOU DO, IF YOU MUST ,

DO NOT - DO NOT PERMIT ANOTHER EARTHLING TO DRIVE YOUR DEATH TRAP.

KILLING YOURSELF IS O.K. - BUT NOT SOMEONE ELSE

AND IF THE CAR IS SOLD - RESTORE TO ORIGINAL BMW BRAKE SYSTEM.

THANKS CD...

Ordered a 17mm BMW MC today so we'll see what happens. New question is: What's the ratio... How many pounds of pedal pressure = 10lbs of hydraulic pressure/brake cylinder pressure? If I can figure out the stock boosted Pedal/hydraulic ratio then I will be able to figure out what I need to go with for the non-boosted ratio.

Also crazy question... (Don't read this CD... it's only gonna make you nervous to know that I drive in CT from time to time...)

What about chopping up the booster and making it as long as the stock but only as wide as the tii.... lessening the volume, lessening the boost?

Too far over my head???