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Electric fuel pump install questions


JHG762002

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I am about to install a carter fuel pump for a weber side draft set up. I was curious what others have done to wire the pump. Is there a particular circuit that works best? Or should I consider wiring it with a switch and a fuse?

The large print giveth and the small print taketh away.

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I am about to install a carter fuel pump for a weber side draft set up. I was curious what others have done to wire the pump. Is there a particular circuit that works best? Or should I consider wiring it with a switch and a fuse?

Def. go with a fuse! Is your battery in the trunk? If yes you can just run the switch/relay wires up front and keep the fuse in-line. I don't know that there's any right or wrong way to do it - more of personal choice. I'm doing the same right now because I am in the process of rebuilding/creating a new wire loom, which will have provisions for an electric fuel pump among other things. I will be using either a fused relay under the dash or a fused switch on the dash. Not sure yet - depends on how racer/ricer I want the car to look. Stock = shove it nicely under the dash and be done with it, racey = rows of fused toggle switches mounted on the center console.

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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no so much physical location, as I've just bolted it to the firewall.

I would really like to have a relay + switch on my wiring. I guess the question is where does the switch go? does it get tied into the ignition tumbler, the coil, distributor? where does it tied in on a tii? Right now it is wired directly into the fuse #6 (on my '70) which is switched with the ignition. It works well, but the pump will continue to run even if the engine is not turning over, which is a bit of a fire hazard. I'm not sure where the switch end of the relay should be to be sure the engine is turning over for the pump to run. Suggestions?

...btw the stock ti had a mechanical fuel pump, and I ran and original ti (with the weber conversion, 40 DCOE) with a mechanical fuel pump and it ran very well. you do have to be careful which pump you get as some do not fit properly.

thanks,

Jon

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no so much physical location, as I've just bolted it to the firewall.

I would really like to have a relay + switch on my wiring. I guess the question is where does the switch go? does it get tied into the ignition tumbler, the coil, distributor? where does it tied in on a tii? Right now it is wired directly into the fuse #6 (on my '70) which is switched with the ignition. It works well, but the pump will continue to run even if the engine is not turning over, which is a bit of a fire hazard. I'm not sure where the switch end of the relay should be to be sure the engine is turning over for the pump to run. Suggestions?

...btw the stock ti had a mechanical fuel pump, and I ran and original ti (with the weber conversion, 40 DCOE) with a mechanical fuel pump and it ran very well. you do have to be careful which pump you get as some do not fit properly.

thanks,

Jon

Didn't know you were going to stick it up under the hood. You should run your fuel pump relay EXACTLY the same way as an electric fan relay would run. Go to www dot zeebuck dot com and check out Zenon's correct way to wire up a relay. You can either #1 tap into anything that is "HOT IN RUN and START" or make your own that taps off the ignition. If you can wire up the relay then you'll be able to find a hot in start somewhere in the car and rig it up correctly....

hth,

TJW

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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The proper way Carter recommends is with an oil pressure safety switch, and you can get one from Holley. Ideally, it only allows the fuel pump to run while the oil pressure is over 15 PSI. But I have a Holley switch, and its real piece of crap. The labels on the posts are impossible to see, and its done crazy things since I got it.

One problem people always point out about such a switch is that your engine won't get any fuel while the car is starting. But actually, the Holley switch has a bypass for this function, and is supposed to provide power to fuel pump while the starter is spinning. That'd be great if it worked, but for some reason that function quit working on my Holley switch.

Instead of relying on Holley's bypass, you can utilize the resistor-bypass post on your starter, which provides power while the starter is spinning.

Also, 15 PSI is pretty high pressure for an idling 2002. If your oil pump is in good shape, it'll stay running just fine. But my oil pump couldn't keep the fuel pump running, so I replaced it (huge job, but for the best), and now the new oil pump keeps it working just fine.

Oh, and you need to mount it in the same place as your factory sender.... I used a tee to put in both.

But yeah, the pressure safety switch has added a lot of confusion and unreliability to my car.

I've heard some people use a relay that detects a signal from the tach to determine if the engine is running, and that relay also provides a priming function. I think they found these relays in VW Rabbits and 320i cars, but I'm not really sure.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Thanks for all the responses. So if I use the schematics for the elec. fan wiring I assume I substitute the pump for the fan and the thermo switch for an oil pressure sender? I really don't know much about the mysterious electron, so....

I think just to get it running I will have to just use a switch and a fuse. I do like the idea of not having to worry about it spewing fuel if I am in an accident. so I will make provisions in the future for the relay etc..

The large print giveth and the small print taketh away.

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